Two clicks up, one click down?

[Fairchaser]

I’ve noticed this practice by shooters I respect and don’t think they would develop such a practice that’s unnecessary. But I wonder if this is just a habit taught by old school shooters on old technology scopes and no longer necessary.

I’m speaking of dialing 1 click past your desired position and then dialing back one click as a sort of safety to ensure the adjustment is seated.

I’ve never done it and never had any problems but I’ve never examined the internal components of a riflescope either. Any opinions on this practice?

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

It won't hurt anything!

 

[6bra1k]

it is based on mechanical facts,,,play in the threads.
but IMHO, one aint enough.
and always adjust the end the same way, (finish going up, and right)
to go up 3 go down three then up 6
to go left 3, go left 6 and then right 3

 

[BoydAllen]

I go farther past when adjusting counterclockwise. When you are screwing a turret in (clockwise) you have positive displacement of the erector tube. Going the other way, you are counting on the bias spring or springs to overcome all of the friction in the system and follow the retracting turret foot perfectly; sometimes it does not. I may go a half inch or more past counterclockwise and then come back to my intended setting, finishing clockwise. This was explained to me by Dick Thomas when he was running Precision Reticle, which at the time, among other things was a Leupold approved warranty station. When the direction of your adjustment is clockwise don't go past, just go directly to your intended point of adjustment.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I go farther past when adjusting counterclockwise. When you are screwing a turret in (clockwise) you have positive displacement of the erector tube. Going the other way, you are counting on the bias spring or springs to overcome all of the friction in the system and follow the retracting turret foot perfectly; sometimes it does not. I may go a half inch or more past counterclockwise and then come back to my intended setting, finishing clockwise. This was explained to me by Dick Thomas when he was running Precision Reticle, which at the time, among other things was a Leupold approved warranty station. When the direction of your adjustment is clockwise don't go past, just go directly to your intended point of adjustment.

Well explained, my friend. I typically watch the reticle for movement when I click anything into it. Just a visible reassurance that moved as it should, but you are spot on, as usual and like I said, it can't hurt to go beyond the counterclockwise setting and come back. In a good rest, you can see it too, even 1/8" clicks are usually pretty evident. In benchrest, this is also good reason for sighters, just to make sure everything is settled in before going to your record target. And..you'll get to know your bullet maker even better! Lol!

 

[Ranger007]

I go farther past when adjusting counterclockwise. When you are screwing a turret in (clockwise) you have positive displacement of the erector tube. Going the other way, you are counting on the bias spring or springs to overcome all of the friction in the system and follow the retracting turret foot perfectly; sometimes it does not. I may go a half inch or more past counterclockwise and then come back to my intended setting, finishing clockwise. This was explained to me by Dick Thomas when he was running Precision Reticle, which at the time, among other things was a Leupold approved warranty station. When the direction of your adjustment is clockwise don't go past, just go directly to your intended point of adjustment.

BINGO!

 

[Fairchaser]

I go farther past when adjusting counterclockwise. When you are screwing a turret in (clockwise) you have positive displacement of the erector tube. Going the other way, you are counting on the bias spring or springs to overcome all of the friction in the system and follow the retracting turret foot perfectly; sometimes it does not. I may go a half inch or more past counterclockwise and then come back to my intended setting, finishing clockwise. This was explained to me by Dick Thomas when he was running Precision Reticle, which at the time, among other things was a Leupold approved warranty station. When the direction of your adjustment is clockwise don't go past, just go directly to your intended point of adjustment.

Thanks for that explanation. It makes perfect sense now that it’s explained. I’ve noticed on less expensive scopes that it took a shot or two for the reticle to settle into its new home. Some would take a pocket knife and tap on the turret to settle the reticle. From now on I’ll be going past the desired setting when going counterclockwise.

 

[STORM2]

The phenomenon is called hysteresis. It’s the lag between action/motion and response. Folks who own lathes experience it. (Slop in the threads) Newer solid state digital controlled equipment removes the potential mechanical errors. It would seem that the high end glass companies would have tolerances to all but eliminate hysteresis. We routinely dial glass back and forth routinely without over tripping the desired number. I suspect the practice may be superstition.

 

[Mike Casselton]

Thanks for that explanation. It makes perfect sense now that it’s explained. I’ve noticed on less expensive scopes that it took a shot or two for the reticle to settle into its new home. Some would take a pocket knife and tap on the turret to settle the reticle. From now on I’ll be going past the desired setting when going counterclockwise.

Ahhhhhh, the old Tasco tap.

With a lot of the older optics, the turrets did not move the reticle as it should have, nor was it repeatable.

Modern, quality scopes move the reticle with higher than 99% accuracy. They also repeat this, over and over.
I did a tracking test on three of my scopes this afternoon.
Bushnell XRS-2. 100%
Arken SH-4 gen 2 4-16. 100%
Arken SH-4 gen 2 6-24. 100%

I'll also test a few more tomorrow just for fun.
An old Bushnell XRS, Athlon Argos 8-34 gen 1, Mil, Mil and an Ares Gen 2 4.5-27.

If anything else will fit on my rail, I'll check that too.

I have had Leupold Vari-X-2 and Vari-X-3 not track until the turrets were exercised a little.
I believe that the lube within the scope might get gummy and cause the turrets to stick a bit.
Some of these scopes hadn't been adjusted in over ten years. They will be interesting to check out.

 

[Shooter13]

Well explained, my friend. I typically watch the reticle for movement when I click anything into it. Just a visible reassurance that moved as it should, but you are spot on, as usual and like I said, it can't hurt to go beyond the counterclockwise setting and come back. In a good rest, you can see it too, even 1/8" clicks are usually pretty evident. In benchrest, this is also good reason for sighters, just to make sure everything is settled in before going to your record target. And..you'll get to know your bullet maker even better! Lol!

GREAT!!! I need one more thing to worry about!

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

GREAT!!! I need one more thing to worry about!

Looks like you've figured everything else out already!

 

[BoydAllen]

The phenomenon is called hysteresis. It’s the lag between action/motion and response. Folks who own lathes experience it. (Slop in the threads) Newer solid state digital controlled equipment removes the potential mechanical errors. It would seem that the high end glass companies would have tolerances to all but eliminate hysteresis. We routinely dial glass back and forth routinely without over tripping the desired number. I suspect the practice may be superstition.

I suspect you don't know as much about scopes as Dick Thomas did.

 

[Ned Ludd]

The erector assembly inside a scope can absolutely get "stuck" or fail to undergo the full movement as dialed, especially if the turrets have not been turned in some time. This often manifests as noticeable movement of the POI on one (or more) subsequent shots after twirling the turrets as the erector spring expands further (more completely) in response to the recoil /shock. Dialing past the intended setting may help allow the erector spring to uncompress better and facilitate the erector moving at least slightly past the desired spot, then getting dialed back to the desired position as the turret is dialed back and compresses the spring. I typically dial at least a half to full turn past the desired setting, then back, and it can absolutely make a difference. Does it have a noticeable effect every single time? I can't state that with any certainty, but it doesn't hurt anything.

 

[STORM2]

I suspect you don't know as much about scopes as Dick Thomas did.

I suspect you are correct.

 

[JEFFPPC]

I agree it can't hurt...but if I thought it was necessary I would be opting for another scope. During a timed match I have enough to consider/judge/evaluate and don't need to have a required process to click with confidence, You play with your scope, I will concentrate on flags and conditions..

 

[DangerRanger]

If my scope needs convincing to adjust it’s not going to be my scope anymore.

I can’t imagine shooting a match, worse an animal with a scope I’m not confident it did exactly what I told it to do.

if you won’t put up with a rifle tossing fliers why excuse a scope not doing its job

 

[Gary in MD]

Ahhhhhh, the old Tasco tap.

With a lot of the older optics, the turrets did not move the reticle as it should have, nor was it repeatable.

Modern, quality scopes move the reticle with higher than 99% accuracy. They also repeat this, over and over.
I did a tracking test on three of my scopes this afternoon.
Bushnell XRS-2. 100%
Arken SH-4 gen 2 4-16. 100%
Arken SH-4 gen 2 6-24. 100%

I'll also test a few more tomorrow just for fun.
An old Bushnell XRS, Athlon Argos 8-34 gen 1, Mil, Mil and an Ares Gen 2 4.5-27.

If anything else will fit on my rail, I'll check that too.

I have had Leupold Vari-X-2 and Vari-X-3 not track until the turrets were exercised a little.
I believe that the lube within the scope might get gummy and cause the turrets to stick a bit.
Some of these scopes hadn't been adjusted in over ten years. They will be interesting to check out.

We always called it the “Leupold tap”

 

[6bra1k]

IMHO
i like boyd's plan
for those that said they proved their scopes, lets see the targets.
some of you may not understand the precision and accuracy involved in long range BENCHREST competition.
ALL threads have clearance, which can be a place of movement.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I just see this a little differently than some. Being from the tool and die industry, I see it as a mechanical issue that is dictated by clearance tolerances. Without clearance(interference fit), two parts won't freely move. Clearance allows movement at the joint in question here. Too much clearance will allow shift, so how much clearance is acceptable vs the cost of tapping the turret or going a few clicks further and coming back? The world isn't perfect and we ask a lot of our equipment. If I knew there would be zero shift and all I had to do to get perfect results is overshooting and coming back or tapping the turret, I don't mind it. IMO, the tradeoff is looser tolerances and potentially a less dependable system in terms of shifting. I don't think a hunting scope is nearly as critical but of course we want the best of everything for our hard earned money. The tighter the tolerances, the higher the price, virtually always. I think if everyone had to work to these tolerances daily, they'd appreciate just how good we have things.

 

[Gary in MD]

This I how I see it.
The purpose of a rifle scope is to hold it’s zero and to track correctly. If it won’t do those two things than it’s not worth having to me. It’s not for bird watching and doesn’t have to be as light as a feather. Even the cheapest of scopes today offer enough light gathering ability to hunt past legal shooting times. But even some expensive scopes won’t hold zero or track repeatedly.
And it’s MOST important on hunting scopes, don’t we always say that we owe the animals the respect of a clean kill?
Some manufacturers have figured out how to get their scopes to track and hold zero and some aren’t worried about it. Some are expensive and some are cheaper.
YMMV
Gary