turning 220 russian brass for 6mmPPC.

[golfer2b2000]

I have new 220 russian brass that I will be turning after I expand the necks out to 6mm.
My question is, just how far back do I turn them?
Do I go back into the shoulder, or go back just enough for the brass to fit into my rifle.
Thank you

 

[okie]

I have new 220 russian brass that I will be turning after I expand the necks out to 6mm.
My question is, just how far back do I turn them?
Do I go back into the shoulder, or go back just enough for the brass to fit into my rifle.
Thank you

I would think you go slightly onto the shoulder to avoid the donut. the cutter should have an angle to do that. best get someone who knows from experience to help you with this question, as i am bored and have to babysit at the office with nothing better to do than post less than expert advice on site.

 

[GT Accuracy]

I have new 220 russian brass that I will be turning after I expand the necks out to 6mm.
My question is, just how far back do I turn them?
Do I go back into the shoulder, or go back just enough for the brass to fit into my rifle.
Thank you

Golfer - this is a very deep conversation with a few methods. I would follow the method of your choice from this websites PPC page:

http://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/6mmppc/


Personally, I do the following:

• Neck up to 6PPC with Expander
• Turn necks down to .0005" under my chamber so it's a tight fit
• load with bullseye and a wax plug
• lube case with oil
• fireform
• then turn to desired final neck thickness

This method is described in the article above in more detail

 

[BoydAllen]

When I turn in the situation that you have described I turn to the point where the cut shows the full width of the angled part of the cutter on the case shoulder. What you are looking for is a very slight feel as you close the bolt on a case. If you have to force the bolt with a lot of effort you will have made a doughnut before you have fired the case. (voice of experience). If you feel nothing, you will be stretching the case more than you have to. It will probably not be enough to cause a problem, but I like to avoid doing that. One time I had trouble getting a fellow to believe that the amount of powder (assuming a normal 6PPC powder) used for fire forming with a bullet was not critical. I told him to fill the case to a little above where the back of the bullet would end up after seating. The reason that this is not critical is that before fire forming the case holds significantly less powder than after making excessive pressure virtually impossible. Finally to make my point, I filled expanded .220 Russian and 6PPC cases with a fine ball powder and weighed both. If I remember correctly the difference was something like 15% but don't quote me on that. About 20 years back when I was turning my first expanded .220 Russian brass I became concerned that by cutting into the shoulder the amount that I have described that I might be weakening the case at the neck shoulder junction, so I sectioned a case that I had turned, and was relieved to learn that there was plenty of metal left in that area. I think that my cutters are all 30 degree. Funny thing, the angled part on my Stiller neck turning tool's cutter is so wide that when re-turning a formed case it covered the entire width of the shoulder.

 

[golfer2b2000]

I see that in most cases, the shooter has another barrel that they use to form their brass. I do not have such a barrell, so my forming will be done with just one barrel. I am concerned about a few things though, and here they are...
Is it possible to neck turn the casings back far enough that when I go to fireform, that the shell jumps forward when the fireing pin hits to cause the round not to go off?
If this is the case, then I feel I have to be careful as to just how far back I am able to turn.
Second question...I feel that fireforming by using wax, or clay will really dirty my barrel. If so, how mant rounds should I fire, before I clean the barrel, and action, and resume fireforming.
I have 100 casings I would like to prepare...

 

[okie]

I see that in most cases, the shooter has another barrel that they use to form their brass. I do not have such a barrell, so my forming will be done with just one barrel. I am concerned about a few things though, and here they are...
Is it possible to neck turn the casings back far enough that when I go to fireform, that the shell jumps forward when the fireing pin hits to cause the round not to go off?
If this is the case, then I feel I have to be careful as to just how far back I am able to turn.
Second question...I feel that fireforming by using wax, or clay will really dirty my barrel. If so, how mant rounds should I fire, before I clean the barrel, and action, and resume fireforming.
I have 100 casings I would like to prepare...

1 doubt it, if you can, you have more serious things to be concerned with. 2 if worried fireform with light charge and bullet. 3 couldnt tell you about last question.

 

[ridgeway]

I fireform with a case full of Clays and cap with clay while they are .220 Russian. I then expand for my turning Mandrel. Done.

 

[golfer2b2000]

By using clay, or wax, does it become messy?

 

[golfer2b2000]

I fireform with a case full of Clays and cap with clay while they are .220 Russian. I then expand for my turning Mandrel. Done.

I like your way of doing this. I have allready sized my cases up to 6mm, but I feel that I can use a redding s bushing button, and push them down a bit till they will chamber. Then I will fill them with clays, and cap them with modeling clay, then fireform them...

 

[BoydAllen]

Rather than use wax, when using Bullseye AND NO BULLET, I cut squares of paper towel, about 3/4 on a side, center them over the mouths of my charged cases, and use the long end of a small Allen wrench to stuff them into the necks until they are about flush. This has worked for me on numerous occasions. I would not use the pistol powder method for doing 100 cases in a good barrel. The nitro content of this powder is high and I do not want that high of a flame temperature for a large number of shots in a good barrel. Also, I see no real need to do 100 cases at a time for a rifle that will be used in competition, at least for group shooting. Barrels have a limited accuracy life, and if you are going to be loading at the range there will be no need for that many cases. Once you have worn out your first barrel then you will have your fire forming barrel. If you practice a lot that will happen pretty quickly.

 

[okie]

then there is the cream of wheat deal too...
im lazy, doesnt bruno sell cases ready to go??

 

[BoydAllen]

Norma sells 6PPC brass. If I were lazy I would use it.

 

[PatMiles]

then there is the cream of wheat deal too...
im lazy, doesnt bruno sell cases ready to go??

Ron Hoen sells fully prepped Lapua 6 PPC brass, $195.00/100.
http://benchrest.com/hoehn/html/ammo___brass.html

 

[okie]

Ron Hoen sells fully prepped Lapua 6 PPC brass, $195.00/100.
http://benchrest.com/hoehn/html/ammo___brass.html

golfer, list the russian cases for sale and get prepped brass here!! countless possible headaches solved.
Im poking fun, I do understand why you want to make em yourself--goodluck

 

[SS427]

Get Tony Boyer's book if you don't have it yet. It is the gospel about the 6PPC. There are pics of exactly what the turned case should look like. Along with everything else you need to know.

 

[golfer2b2000]

Lots of good advise from you shooters. I dont plan on doing any competition shooting. I do like precision shooting though. I have a 30BR that shoots very good. Finally getting around to toying with this 6mmPPC. I know I can purchase the brass, but I like trying to make my own.
I think I will just do like 25 rounds instead of 100 like Mr. Allen suggested.
Thanks again to all who took the time to help me out..
Good shooting!!
Gene from Pa.