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tuner for 22 lr

I have a new barrel ,Shilen ,and tuner Harrell, being added to my Kindle Government. Question ,,,,, Is it possible
to tune different manufacturer ammo to the same tuner. I know different manufacturer ammo will shot
differently. I shoot what we call an ROP (retired old people) match. In this match we cannot shoot anything
that cost over $10.00 a box prior to previous price jump. I also shoot club match, shooting the better stuff.
I realize different lubricants, powder etc come into play with the barrel. By the way, 50 yds.
Thanks
 
I have a Harrell's tuner on my Kelbley Stolle Swindlehurst. I tune for each brand and lot number. Write down the tuner settings and dial the tuner in for the ammo I'm using. My rifle spits shots on a cold barrel, so I shoot 5 to 10 fowling shots before I check the tune. If it's not shooting tight, going 1 or 2 clicks each way usually helps.
 
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Im putting a rimfire together and went with Jerry Stillers, Holeshot arms. Im new to rimfire Br and am taking the advice I give to guys new to Lr BR. Build whats winning before you reinvent the wheel.
You didnt want the PAS instead of the SAP action? Both claim to be the best but one sure wins alot more thru history
 
History? To me it matters not.
Below is Jerry Stiller's comments.

I started this project years ago and finally have finally almost finished it. It's new, but unfortunately probably not any better than what I currently produce, just different. People want it, so there ya go. I build mid barrel tuners, rear only rests etc also, but don't use them either. It still has a few inherent issues that the PAS design cannot get by that my current SAP does not. To each his own though.
I have built about 50 actions in 2 designs. One is a single piece firing pin with the small pin directly in the main body and the other is a 2 piece design with a floater pin similar to my Copperhead or a Time. They are almost ready for Melonite, so we are probably 2 or 3 months out. This design solves a few of the Turbo implementation issues. One is a reduced surface area between the pin and the bolt body. Grease can/will still get in there, but hopefully it will be less sensitive. The spring is much larger in diameter also which reduces internal stress and helps in it taking a set. There is also a side pin in the firing assembly that guides it such that the tang never touches the action or sideplates of the trigger. Overall, it solves most of the problems the PAS has. There is also a guiding part not shown that centers the spring in the back and keeps it from rubbing the pin interior. Here is a pic before melonite and grinding of most of the parts. The handle/lug and firing pn parts are S7 tool steel. The rest is 416R stainless, just like my other actions.
I know a lot of people had told me that they want one. I HAVE PROBABLY NOT RECORDED ALL OF THEM THOUGH. They will all be RBLP this time around, and this will probably the only run Holeshot will ever make. The price will be $1800 on them this time around, except for CSD001. Normally I keep SN #1, but I don't really care so much about this one, so I am going to let it go. There will be another post later where it gets auctioned to the highest bidder. So IF you want a piece if history, here is your chance. Keep a lookout for it.
IF you want on the list, even if you told me already, send an email to jerry@holeshotarms.com. MAKE THE SUBJECT "NITRO ACTION LIST". That is how I will keep track of it. (I guess we will see who can follow instructions). The auction will be held in a post and the bidders will be kept anonymous unless the bidder wants to be known.
 
You didnt want the PAS instead of the SAP action? Both claim to be the best but one sure wins alot more thru history
I asked Jerry his opinion. Since I dont have one yet. I also like that the sap is based on a remington style ignition. If familliar with it. I doubt I will get into this like I have done with Lr. If I do I will have them all, probably try a bunch of dumb stuff and form my own opinion.
 
Are you planning to shoot ARA, IR 5050,other? Its the same as what your used to without the luxury of control of your ammo. Good barrel, constant ignition and finding a good lot of ammo. Welcome to RFBR.
Todd
 
I was recruited to do a bunch of rimfire barrel work when I still lived in the midwest. I knew I shouldn't get involved in it but did anyway. Those damn lead bullet things will DRIVE YOU CRAZY!! Some of them would shoot like they had eyes of their own for the center of the target, and the next one wouldn't shoot worth a crap. Lapping, slugging, reverse tapering, indexing, tuners both muzzle and mid barrel, lube, ammo, ignition, blah, blah, blah. Those things were a pain in the A$$ that have more things to sort out than any centerfire. I built quite a few that shot awesome, but in general I hated them.
 
rxshop00, I would pick what I felt like was my best lot of ammo and tune to it. That would become my base number. Then when you change lots you can decide if you need to change tuner setting. Your limiting factor will be the ammo that you change to and how it compares to the ammo you set you baseline on.
Todd
I would add find the best shooting(consistent) ammo/lot. without the tuner then as Todd advised use that lot to tune with. the biggest mistake IMO new shooters do is put the tuner on then try and tune with whatever ammo they have. remember a consistent shooting lot of ammo is not one that can shoot really small groups 2-3 out of 5 groups but one that will shoot 5 groups that average the smallest.

Lee
 

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