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Tube gun shooting loose

I have an Eliseo RTM with a Pierce Engineering action chambered in 7mm RSAUM. The problem I am repeatedly having is it shoots itself loose after just a few rounds. I took extra care in tightening and lock-tighting all screws in early September. Yesterday I had it at the range and shots 1 through 4 were spot on as expected. Shot 5 was suddenly 2" to the right and shots 6 & 7 got progressively worse. Obviously something had worked loose again for the 3rd time.

Just curious if anybody else has had this issue and if so, what was done to fix it?
 
OK, I apologize, this one is on me. Just checked the rifle and the rear ring was loose at the rail. I had just installed a new US Optics scope and obviously I fell a little short with the wrench.

The rifle does have a history of things being loose and I thought this was a continuation. None of the issues the rifle has experienced are due to the design or quality of the chassis. All are attributable to the gunsmith that put it together. I think the rifle and chassis were never properly torqued and in the course of 3 different range trips loosened at different intervals. First thing to nearly spin off was the muzzle brake, second were the action screws, and third were the screws in the cheek rest.

I have been told that the action really needs to be epoxied into the chassis. Is this necessary?
 
I know I had to really take my time to get all the torque out of my action. I had to keep trying to get the action screws tightened with the down pressure on the barreled action, making sure afterwards that there is NO binding while sliding the bolt in the action along the raceways.

After that I would tighten the four receiver screws little by little and as soon as the action would bind I'd back them off just enough so the bolt would move freely down the raceways. I have Loctite on mine as well and there isn't much tension on the four receiver screws. I too have a pierce action and asked gary about the binding and he said the customs like peirce have very tight tolerances.

Sorry I posted this just as you posted about fixing your issue.

I've thought about gluing mine in but it's shooting so damn well now i'm afraid to do anything to it. But if it gets bound up again, I'll prolly ship it off to be glued in. It has been out in the fields pretty much all summer banging around in the back seat and it's stayed true since I got the binding out of it.
 
potatoe said:
I know I had to really take my time to get all the torque out of my action. I had to keep trying to get the action screws tightened with the down pressure on the barreled action, making sure afterwards that there is NO binding while sliding the bolt in the action along the raceways.

After that I would tighten the four receiver screws little by little and as soon as the action would bind I'd back them off just enough so the bolt would move freely down the raceways. I have Loctite on mine as well and there isn't much tension on the four receiver screws. I too have a pierce action and asked gary about the binding and he said the customs like peirce have very tight tolerances.

Sorry I posted this just as you posted about fixing your issue.

I've thought about gluing mine in but it's shooting so damn well now i'm afraid to do anything to it. But if it gets bound up again, I'll prolly ship it off to be glued in. It has been out in the fields pretty much all summer banging around in the back seat and it's stayed true since I got the binding out of it.

Sounds like there is a specific method to this process and my bolt is "slightly" sticky. Guess I need to talk to Gary :)
 
Yeah I had that issue too and was bitching about my pierce action not being as smooth as I thought it should be. When its bound up it will act kinda choppy. You can tell how smooth it should be if you loosen all the receiver screws and it glides like silk. Try loosening the four receiver screws (or just take them out) and the action should be smooth up and down the raceways - including right before you close the bolt that's where it would bind up for me especially.
If its not smooth the you have to take off the magwell and loosen/retighten the action screws with the down pressure on the barreled action and keep tightening the bolt (sucks because you have to do it one at a time with this chassis) and keep checking to make sure the bolt slides freely.

If it is smooth just by taking out the four screws then good, install them with Loctite like a car tire (top right, bottom left blah blah blah) and don't use much torque at all I found that one of my rear screws could barely make contact without it biding. I bet they are all less than 10 ft lbs torque. Just keep slowly tightening all of them an back them off as soon as you get any binding in the raceways, that peirce is very smooth so if you get the slightest hiccup then back that screw out

Kinda PITA but once I got it, man does it shoot and I love that gun, its been my favorite build so far.
 
Gluing isn't necessary. I have 2 CMI chassis, 1-SA Rem.,RTM and 1-Borden Tube Gun action and they both shoot minute of fruit fly. I occasionally check the torque on the action screws but haven't noticed any of them backing out.
 
They are a great chassis, I love mine. Have you shot your's in cold weather? The only draw back to them I see really is a possible POI shift in the cold but I dunno. I'm sure when stang gets his squared away he will love it, I've thought about switching my other 700 to another chassis.
 
I don't know about Pierce or any other similar actions in the Eliseo stock. All mine have Barnard actions and I've never noticed any kind of binding, or any problems whatsoever.
 
Yeah, I was kinda suprised that it was that difficult to get in locked in there and still have a smooth cycle. This is the only tube gun I've messed with so I can't say if it happens with others. I followed the instructions to the letter but it took me awhile to get it right. I dunno, but I'm more than happy with it now, I love that gun
 
potatoe said:
Yeah, I was kinda suprised that it was that difficult to get in locked in there and still have a smooth cycle. This is the only tube gun I've messed with so I can't say if it happens with others. I followed the instructions to the letter but it took me awhile to get it right. I dunno, but I'm more than happy with it now, I love that gun

Instructions?!?!?!
Where can I find these instructions??
 
They should have been in the tube of the chassis. I'm sure you can get them either from gotxring.com or just email gary and he will email them to you.
 
mtang45 said:
potatoe said:
Yeah, I was kinda suprised that it was that difficult to get in locked in there and still have a smooth cycle. This is the only tube gun I've messed with so I can't say if it happens with others. I followed the instructions to the letter but it took me awhile to get it right. I dunno, but I'm more than happy with it now, I love that gun

Instructions?!?!?!
Where can I find these instructions??

Here is one set

http://www.gotxring.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/rts_rtm_instructions.pdf
 
Mtang45,
If your bolt is slightly sticky and you have a Pierce action I can tell you why. I have 2 Eliseo tube guns with Pierce actions. The problem is that the bolt was never fitted to the action.

I had to use marking ink to see the places that the bolt was rubbing. With 600 grit paper I sanded those areas. Within 30 minutes I had the action working smoothly, then I polished those spots with 1600 grip paper. No problems after that.

It's shameful that one buys a custom action and it is shipped in that condition, but that's the way it is with Pierce.

Kindest regards,

Joe
 

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