After some years with my TRG`s big Zeiss 6-24x56 scope and a 6mm cheek piece spacer, I wasn't happy with only 6mm cheek spacer.
I then made myself a 15mm spacer, but quickly discovered that my cheek piece was in the way when I wanted to remove the bolt, and clean the barrel,from behind of course).
I didn`t like that solution, -what if I had to remove my bolt in the field and forgot my hexagonal key?
This was also a problem every time I cleaned my barrel, -where is my allenkey?
That irritated me, and I started a brainstorming to find another solution.
My criteria was a tool less solution without having to change any original parts on the TRG stock.
After some time in my utility room, I came up with this solution.
A wheel nut that gets locked on the original M6 bolt, and on the spacer I cutted out to make room for the wheel.
And after a while I also discovered that my butt pad was in the way when I cleaned the barrel.
More time in my utility room, and the recoil pad also got a wheel bolt.
After a while, I also made a new cheek piece spacer for myself and some of my friends.
And then the rifle ended up looking like this:
I've made a small movie about how the tool less TRG spacer works, and put it out on you tube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3-0civJ5PI
One of the TRG-shooters who has bought my spacer set, put out a topic on snipers Hide.
And there I got a few inquiries about if I was willing to make more of these spacer sets.
I decided to use some of my savings on tools that help me up with the productions, and is also great for future gun projects
I ordered a mini milling machine, and here are some pictures of it:
With the new milling machine it was possible to make more accurate and complicate solution, and I was able to re-design the cheek piece spacer with some new solutions.
Here are some more pictures of the new solution:
With the new solution I don`t need to loosen the wheel nut more than ca one turn, in order to remove the cheek piece.
And with the new rubber inlets on the spacer, the friction between the spacer and the guns stock got heigh enough, without having to use a lot of power to tighten the wheel nut.
A 15mm cheek spacer:
A 12mm cheek spacer:
Some spacers before painting:
I decided to use 2 compound car paint with TRG green and black color.
I bought myself a cheap airbrush set, and painted the spacer.
Pic of me painting the spacer:
And after painting it looks like this:
I then made myself a 15mm spacer, but quickly discovered that my cheek piece was in the way when I wanted to remove the bolt, and clean the barrel,from behind of course).
I didn`t like that solution, -what if I had to remove my bolt in the field and forgot my hexagonal key?
This was also a problem every time I cleaned my barrel, -where is my allenkey?
That irritated me, and I started a brainstorming to find another solution.
My criteria was a tool less solution without having to change any original parts on the TRG stock.
After some time in my utility room, I came up with this solution.
A wheel nut that gets locked on the original M6 bolt, and on the spacer I cutted out to make room for the wheel.
And after a while I also discovered that my butt pad was in the way when I cleaned the barrel.
More time in my utility room, and the recoil pad also got a wheel bolt.
After a while, I also made a new cheek piece spacer for myself and some of my friends.
And then the rifle ended up looking like this:
I've made a small movie about how the tool less TRG spacer works, and put it out on you tube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3-0civJ5PI
One of the TRG-shooters who has bought my spacer set, put out a topic on snipers Hide.
And there I got a few inquiries about if I was willing to make more of these spacer sets.
I decided to use some of my savings on tools that help me up with the productions, and is also great for future gun projects
I ordered a mini milling machine, and here are some pictures of it:
With the new milling machine it was possible to make more accurate and complicate solution, and I was able to re-design the cheek piece spacer with some new solutions.
Here are some more pictures of the new solution:
With the new solution I don`t need to loosen the wheel nut more than ca one turn, in order to remove the cheek piece.
And with the new rubber inlets on the spacer, the friction between the spacer and the guns stock got heigh enough, without having to use a lot of power to tighten the wheel nut.
A 15mm cheek spacer:
A 12mm cheek spacer:
Some spacers before painting:
I decided to use 2 compound car paint with TRG green and black color.
I bought myself a cheap airbrush set, and painted the spacer.
Pic of me painting the spacer:
And after painting it looks like this:
