• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Touch up bluing

I just picked up a S&W model 49 , it has hardly any rounds fired through it but shows some holster and handling. Is the Birchwood Casey a good blue to use . The area are cyinder and grip area, all other is perfect. It came from friend , he just carried it , never practiced with it. Pinned barrel , great carry piece.
 
1621776736524.pngMy vote would go to Oxpho Blue (Brownell's). Applied correctly to degreased steel it is tough and looks good. Follow directions and apply to a warm surface for best results. It won't give the results of a good hot blue, but it is close and convenient.
1621776788327.png
 
Last edited:
I use Oxpho as well.
I work it into the metal with a fine (gray) Scotchbrite pad (or bronze wool).
Usually multiple "coats" are required to get an even/deep blue.
White or grey Scotchbrite is far superior to steel wool. I've used it for years with BC's Super Blue liquid, and or Oxpho creme. Blends in well.
 
I ordered the OxyPho creme , the liquid didn't work so well , the Birchwood seems to rub off . Thanks for all the responses .
 
I ordered the OxyPho creme , the liquid didn't work so well , the Birchwood seems to rub off . Thanks for all the responses .
Bear in mind that the Oxpho requires multiple applications until you reach the desired color. It isn't a one-shot application.
 
I ordered the OxyPho creme , tried the liquid , Birchwood blued better . Will see how the Oxy creme does. Not expecting it to look as good as the original bluing but I would like it to stay not just rub off after each cleaning. Thanks guys for answering my post.
Chris
 
I've used them all.
If your 49 looks like the Ruger 22, you won't hurt it, so try the good suggestions above.
None of the wipe on's are going to make your Smith look as good as it deserves.
If it has most of the original blue, you're far better off leaving it as is.
The only thing that will get close to the original S&W finish is a slow rust blue, which
can be done over the existing finish. Another option is Brownells Dicropan IM,
a different version of a rust blue. Both are among the highest quality finishes
for any gun, but are far more complex than wiping on any copper sulfate/acid mix.
 
I have had pretty good results with Van's Gun Blue. Spot applications with cotton ball.
Works well if you are able to disassemble and submerge parts.
 
The revolver is about 85% perfect , mostly from handling and storing in the holster in the same cylinder position for years. The touch up stuff is fine , just don't want it to come off so easy with just a cleaning , as if it was like water paint. I also have the 36 Chief , pinned barrel and diamond grips in perfect shape , just love the snub wheel guns.
 
I really can't speak for the the durability of the other products mentioned, but I have no problems with the durability of Oxpho Blue. I have used it on a lot of guns including the Ruger pictured in my previous post, a Ruger .44 Magnum that has been in use for over 20 years without marring and the Ruger .45 Colt in my avatar that was badly pitted from several years of being kept in a leather holster on a salt-water boat and had absolutely no bluing left when I got it. I polished and restored it (also cut barrel from 7 1/2" to 4 1/2" and added all steel parts such as grip frame and ejector rod housing) using Oxpho and haven't needed to retouch it since (15 years). Used properly, Oxpho bonds with the metal, not just sitting on the top like paint. I have only used the liquid form, but keep reapplying and steel wooling it off until it sits on the metal in beads, like water on a waxed car.
 
SSL
I do have the liquid Oxy , I didn't do the on and off process , I removed the oil rubbed it down with 0000 steel wool added the blue , didn't wool down and reapply . The areas effected are along the camel hump from gripping the revolver and on 3 & 6 position on the cylinder from holstering in the same position for years . Wouldn't take much to correct , was hesitant to keep doing the proper steps .
 
SSL
I do have the liquid Oxy , I didn't do the on and off process , I removed the oil rubbed it down with 0000 steel wool added the blue , didn't wool down and reapply . The areas effected are along the camel hump from gripping the revolver and on 3 & 6 position on the cylinder from holstering in the same position for years . Wouldn't take much to correct , was hesitant to keep doing the proper steps .
Degrease and keep alternating the process. You should be able to reach the stage that it is nearly impossible to see where the wear was. Sure, it isn't a perfect match for S&W premium bluing, but it's tough...if used correctly. A lot depends on how well polished the areas are. I polish all old bluing off and then treat the entire firearm, but I am usually working on one in far worse condition than you described. Left Side.jpgI20190601_201341.jpg
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,220
Messages
2,191,531
Members
78,751
Latest member
Jim Humphrey
Back
Top