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Tools needed to properly install a scope also a bore sight?

Hello again,

Tools recommended or needed to properly install a scope on a rifle? Recommendations please and thank you~

So far I have my eyes on a Tipton Best Gun Vise, Wheeler scope mounting kit 1 inch 30 mm
Wheeler profession bore sighter am I missing anything else?
 
The Wheeler kit might be overkill. But the included Wheeler torque screw driver is a valuable tool, not only for scope mounting but action screws too. Stripping a ring bolt is bad, but breaking off a base mounting screw in the action will ruin your day, so using correct torque values is a very good idea. I use a tiny dab of BLUE Loctite on base and ring bolts; not everyone does.

I bought just the Wheeler torque screw driver and use a DIY ring lapping tool, but suit yourself.

I think the bore sighter is definitively over kill. I can't imagine paying that much for a tool which isn't really necessary. I suppose if you were putting together a rifle where you MUST hit the target on the first shot and you have no opportunity to zero the rifle at a range, then it might be useful. But that would make you an assassin or a 007 spy, wouldn't it?

I bore-sight rifles after swapping scopes all the time. Just bring your gun vise or use a good front rest and rear bag to hold the rifle steady. Remove the bolt, set the gun up on a steady bench, and wiggle things around until you see the target centered in the bore. I shoot at a public range and it's easy to find one of those targets with an 8" or 10" diameter black dot with a red bulls eye. They are easy to see when looking down the bore. Use either 50 or 100 yards, whichever is convenient. Then, without moving the rifle, look through the scope and move the cross hairs to the center of the target. Double and triple check your alignment, and fire the first shot (at your target of course). You should easily be on a 8" diameter target. Adjust your scope as appropriate, fire again, fine tune the aim point, fire a third time and you'll be zeroed in or very very close to zero. It's just that easy....... and cheap too.
 
I agree whole heartedly with Mozella, instead of wasting your money on bore sighter, spend the money for a good gunsmith screwdriver set. Having a good driver set with all the different sizes specifically to fit each screw is far more valuable and will be used as long as you own the gun(s). I purchased the Wheeler, available for $15, put that with your torque wrench from the Wheeler scope mounting kit and you have it made.
On the scope mounting kit. I purchased one also. I keep the torque wrench and the screwdriver set in my range bag. The rest sits on the shelf, but I use it when ever I mount a new scope or mount someone else scope. But expect it to sit and draw dust most of the time.
Although the kit sells for about $89 and the torque wrench separate is about $49. So you are not spending a lot to have a tool. And lets face it, most of us don't have any problems spending $40 bucks on tools.
For the most part, I have had to lap one set of rings. Otherwise, I use the levels and the checking bars to check alignment and set the scope. In fact, I carry the levels in my range bag as I have had to help several people at the range get their scopes set.
 
I have the wheeler kit and use the FAT wrench often and the levels.
The lapping bars well I have them i guess.
I have never seen the value in a boresighter, but I have also never given on a try. I have had to shoot all 4 corners of a target board to find where i was hitting,I figure cost of 4 shots vs cost of boresighter, Im still money ahead
 
The Wheeler kit might be overkill. But the included Wheeler torque screw driver is a valuable tool, not only for scope mounting but action screws too. Stripping a ring bolt is bad, but breaking off a base mounting screw in the action will ruin your day, so using correct torque values is a very good idea. I use a tiny dab of BLUE Loctite on base and ring bolts; not everyone does.

I bought just the Wheeler torque screw driver and use a DIY ring lapping tool, but suit yourself.

I think the bore sighter is definitively over kill. I can't imagine paying that much for a tool which isn't really necessary. I suppose if you were putting together a rifle where you MUST hit the target on the first shot and you have no opportunity to zero the rifle at a range, then it might be useful. But that would make you an assassin or a 007 spy, wouldn't it?

I bore-sight rifles after swapping scopes all the time. Just bring your gun vise or use a good front rest and rear bag to hold the rifle steady. Remove the bolt, set the gun up on a steady bench, and wiggle things around until you see the target centered in the bore. I shoot at a public range and it's easy to find one of those targets with an 8" or 10" diameter black dot with a red bulls eye. They are easy to see when looking down the bore. Use either 50 or 100 yards, whichever is convenient. Then, without moving the rifle, look through the scope and move the cross hairs to the center of the target. Double and triple check your alignment, and fire the first shot (at your target of course). You should easily be on a 8" diameter target. Adjust your scope as appropriate, fire again, fine tune the aim point, fire a third time and you'll be zeroed in or very very close to zero. It's just that easy....... and cheap too.


Awesome advice, thank you~
 
I use my bore sighting tool on almost every gun that I get that's scoped. I document where the scope is on my grid and refer to it when I work on bedding and other things. It's a simple tool to see the changes you made and where the problem originated from.
 
When you go to the range, suggest you put up some large backer like christmas wrapping paper, you start out with a bullet free background so you can see/find those first few shots and adjust the scope accordingly. Most wrapping paper is colored on one side and white/off white on the back side. Some even has a grid printed on it to help in making adjustments.
 
Although I have a Bore Sighter, I never use it any more. Big clean piece of paper with a center bulls eye as stated about and one shot from a good rest and then move the cross hairs to the point of impact. I do have the Wheeler Driver Set and the Wheeler Scope mounting set, which does have the Lapping Bars, two levels, the torque driver and if you need it, a good video to explain how to do it all.

Bob
 

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