I've read a few posts here and other places and am still wondering if I should crimp my pistol loads especially the 40 S&W because of the Glock Kaboom factor. I have loaded at least a 1000 rounds of each caliber so far and have had no problems but I'm afraid I might someday because of it. I put a very light crimp in mine FYI so far.
To Crimp or Not to Crimp
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For a semi-auto, a light taper crimp, to the extent of not much more than removing the slight flare that may remain after bullet seating. Looking at the case mouth closely, it should appear to be almost straight, with just the slightest taper.
For revolvers, a roll crimp into the cannalure groove if jacketed bullets, or the first groove if it's a cast lead.
For revolvers, a roll crimp into the cannalure groove if jacketed bullets, or the first groove if it's a cast lead.
I am using the Lee dies so I guess that's a plus and I am putting just a slight crimp on it to where you can just barely see it but....... I just noticed this today when I started reloading some new brass I just shot today and the brass had no signs of the "Glock" bulge at the base but when I put the case in the loader, the first step is deprime and size and I noticed after the sizing of the case it now has the "Glock" bulge so I measured the bulge at the base(.422") and then up towards the center of the case(4.170"). Why would sizing the case put that bulge at the base? I'm using a Hornady LNL progressive press with all Lee dies in case someone asks.
OH, and I am shooting with a gen2 G22 with a KKM Precision barrel.
OH, and I am shooting with a gen2 G22 with a KKM Precision barrel.
bigedp51
The "Glock Kb" problem is caused by older unsupported barrels at the feed ramp, and reloading weak cases with the Glock bulge and shooting hot loads.
Below the older Glock (and other firearm barrels) had feed ramps that left twice as much of the case unsupported, the newer barrels correct this problem. Google unsupported Glock barrels, go to images and "view"the topic and problem.
The Glock Kb FAQ
http://www.thegunzone.com/glock/glock-kb-faq.html
1. If you want to shoot hot loads buy a 10mm Auto or a magnum revolver.
2. If you inspect your barrels feed ramp and your range pickup brass you will not have a problem.
I have a newer Glock 22 with the modified feed ramp that supports the rear of the case better. I use "INSPECTED" range pickup brass and when I load for it I don't pretend is a .40 magnum.
The Speer #14 manual has .40 lite loads, which are nothing more than the start loads for the 165 grain bullets. These are my "normal" prefered loads with used brass.
Below is a link for .40 Lite practice loads, they are above mouse fart loads but lower than a manuals start loads. I shoot my range pickup brass with these loads without any problems with plated and jacketed bullets.
Make Right With a “.40 Liteâ€
http://www.handgunsmag.com/2010/09/24/ammunition_40lite_091806/
Anytime you read anything like this on the internet you have to do research and separate rumors and myth from the facts.
Glock wasn't the only pistol with this feed ramp problem and much of it was caused by over worked brass and loading too hot.
I taper crimp all my pistol rounds and a taper crimp should only be .001 to .002 smaller than the normal outside diameter of the case.
The taper crimp below is exaggerated as an example, the case headspaces on the case mouth and the taper crimp just streamlines the case for feeding.
Bottom line, below if your cases don't look like this you do not have a problem
Below 50 .40 Lite loads and plated Rainier bullets.
Below the older Glock (and other firearm barrels) had feed ramps that left twice as much of the case unsupported, the newer barrels correct this problem. Google unsupported Glock barrels, go to images and "view"the topic and problem.
The Glock Kb FAQ
http://www.thegunzone.com/glock/glock-kb-faq.html
1. If you want to shoot hot loads buy a 10mm Auto or a magnum revolver.
2. If you inspect your barrels feed ramp and your range pickup brass you will not have a problem.
I have a newer Glock 22 with the modified feed ramp that supports the rear of the case better. I use "INSPECTED" range pickup brass and when I load for it I don't pretend is a .40 magnum.
The Speer #14 manual has .40 lite loads, which are nothing more than the start loads for the 165 grain bullets. These are my "normal" prefered loads with used brass.
Below is a link for .40 Lite practice loads, they are above mouse fart loads but lower than a manuals start loads. I shoot my range pickup brass with these loads without any problems with plated and jacketed bullets.
Make Right With a “.40 Liteâ€
http://www.handgunsmag.com/2010/09/24/ammunition_40lite_091806/
Anytime you read anything like this on the internet you have to do research and separate rumors and myth from the facts.
Glock wasn't the only pistol with this feed ramp problem and much of it was caused by over worked brass and loading too hot.
I taper crimp all my pistol rounds and a taper crimp should only be .001 to .002 smaller than the normal outside diameter of the case.
The taper crimp below is exaggerated as an example, the case headspaces on the case mouth and the taper crimp just streamlines the case for feeding.
Bottom line, below if your cases don't look like this you do not have a problem
Below 50 .40 Lite loads and plated Rainier bullets.
Thanks for the explanation and the pics which are worth a thousand words. I had envisioned that the "Glock" bulge was the base was completely bulged around the whole case but as it shows in the pic, it's just bulged where it is unsupported. The Glock 22 I have is a police return and both the barrel that came with it and the KKM barrel I have support the whole case I believe but I'll look again and take pics. I'll also take pics of my brass before and after I load them to show you what I'm concerned about which may be nothing at all.
I do load light with all my reloads no matter what caliber because all I do is shoot paper so why waste powder. Right now I am loading with 800-X at 7.3gr with a coal of 1.118" with RMR 165gr FMJ FN bullets.
I do load light with all my reloads no matter what caliber because all I do is shoot paper so why waste powder. Right now I am loading with 800-X at 7.3gr with a coal of 1.118" with RMR 165gr FMJ FN bullets.
Here are the pics I promised. First is a pic showing both the Glock barrel and then the KKM barrel on the right. It looks to me that the KKM has a bit more support.
The second pic shows a case before it has been sized and then 3 finished loads.
Notice on the finished loads how the base of the case bulges out just a bit. The bulge in the finished loads is right after the case has been sized. The unsized case has no bulge. If you look really hard, you can just barely make out the crimp in each load which I believe is very light.
Any thoughts or comments on this?
The second pic shows a case before it has been sized and then 3 finished loads.
Notice on the finished loads how the base of the case bulges out just a bit. The bulge in the finished loads is right after the case has been sized. The unsized case has no bulge. If you look really hard, you can just barely make out the crimp in each load which I believe is very light.
Any thoughts or comments on this?
Attachments
Thumb: They look fine to me. I also get slight bulges in front of the extractor groove with my 1911's, 45 Auto. I've ignored them for years, and no problems.
Your crimps look fine. I just don't want to see any of the case mouth flare remaining, as chambering failures are sure to result. Like Ed said: .001" to .002" smaller than case diameter.
Your crimps look fine. I just don't want to see any of the case mouth flare remaining, as chambering failures are sure to result. Like Ed said: .001" to .002" smaller than case diameter.
thank you to the OP for starting the thread and to big ed for the pics as usual.
I use the redding bulge buster die on all the 40sw brass I find and then every couple of loadings for my own Glock23g4 never a fail to feed. I had never seen "the bulge" in a picture until now. thanks to all!
cheers,
Doc
FWIW light taper crimp, LNL ammo plant, nosler 135gr jhps, Bullseye powder. and ALWAYS watching for the powder cop for the double charge!
I use the redding bulge buster die on all the 40sw brass I find and then every couple of loadings for my own Glock23g4 never a fail to feed. I had never seen "the bulge" in a picture until now. thanks to all!
cheers,
Doc
FWIW light taper crimp, LNL ammo plant, nosler 135gr jhps, Bullseye powder. and ALWAYS watching for the powder cop for the double charge!
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