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Tikks T3x action screw torque ?

rebs

Gold $$ Contributor
It says in the owners manual 62 in lbs. Doesn't this seem like a lot for a plastic stock and trigger guard ?
 
I have mine piller bedded in a GRS laminate stock at almost exactly 1/2 that.
Had some real issues with precision grouping at 50in/lbs when I over tightened by mistake.

Can't hurt to experiment to see what works best for your rifle.
 
I played with mine after finding a load I liked.

I tried all the way from 20 in/lb to 60 in/lb

The rifle consistently shot the best at 35-40.

So I torque them at 37 in/lb.
 
I recently torqued mine. After a bit of research I used ~35 … I found some articles online, but nothing solid. 50-60 seems too much.

From the Tikka owners manual online:
Installation is carried out in reverse order. Tighten the receiver screws to a torque of 7 Nm (62 in-lbs) in metallic trigger guards and max. 5Nm (44 in-lbs) in plastic trigger guards. Make sure to put metallic recoil block (B) in place into stock and pull barreled receiver backwards before tightening the receiver screws in order to remove the slack from the recoil lug.

http://cdn1.tikka.fi/sites/default/files/images/Tikka_T1x_3x_Instruction manual_S34065180_v5.1_WEB.pdf
 
Never really ran across a torque value by a firearms manufacturer that stated whether the torque value was for dry or lubed bolts.
Some engineering books list torque reduction in percentage of reduction in relationship to the lube used. It's quite drastic in many cases.
(eg. dry moly---52% reduction)
 
All my Tikka's in factory stocks, whether wood or synthetic, get 35# on both front and back. Start with the front, and torque 1/2 way...then do the rear. Finish the front at 35#, and finally the rear at the same.

The T3's in McMillans get 55#. There is NO need to go any higher. And they are all pillar bedded.
 
On my homemade wood stocks I use 40 on the front and 25 on the rear. If the “bottom metal” crushes a little and the magazine won’t click in place, I put a washer under the front of the bottom metal Maybe a little bubba Gunsmithing but it works.
 
Josh, I do the same. I make shims out of my plastic hunting licenses. I use 1 or 2, and that usually does it. Hole in the middle, obviously, so the action screw will go thru the shim.

Since I started bedding the bottom metal, there hasn't been a need.
 

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