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Tikka T3 tenon specs?

Converting a military (MN) receiver from .980-16 to 1-16 for compatibility with Tikka prefits.
Plan is to indicate the receiver, bore the ID/threads to obtain the needed minor diameter in the receiver- then open them up with a 1-16 bottoming tap. I'm not truing/single-pointing...just following existing threads.

Anyone know the actual specs for the Tikka tenon- the OD and PD of the prefit barrels used? I want to make sure I don't cut too tight, or too loose for compatibility with the prefits (and determine best H class for the tap).
 
You probably ought to buy the one you plan on using and fit to that for sure just incase your tap doesnt get there. G3 would be where id start with springback at a minimum. If they cut to spec you may need a bit bigger to give the correct looseness desired in a barrel joint. You may be better off just single pointing it. If it was me id skip the prefit just because youll already have it set up in the lathe and id take that goofy taper off the end so you can have a believable barrel shoulder
 
You probably ought to buy the one you plan on using and fit to that for sure just incase your tap doesnt get there. G3 would be where id start with springback at a minimum. If they cut to spec you may need a bit bigger to give the correct looseness desired in a barrel joint. You may be better off just single pointing it. If it was me id skip the prefit just because youll already have it set up in the lathe and id take that goofy taper off the end so you can have a believable barrel shoulder
Did you mean H? 65000+ members on here and I bet there are less than 65 that know what we're talking about? A tap is a tap, right?
 
Converting a military (MN) receiver from .980-16 to 1-16 for compatibility with Tikka prefits.
Plan is to indicate the receiver, bore the ID/threads to obtain the needed minor diameter in the receiver- then open them up with a 1-16 bottoming tap. I'm not truing/single-pointing...just following existing threads.

Anyone know the actual specs for the Tikka tenon- the OD and PD of the prefit barrels used? I want to make sure I don't cut too tight, or too loose for compatibility with the prefits (and determine best H class for the tap).
it seems when i checked into buying some tikka takeoff factory barrels they were pretty cheap as the tenon diameter is a little less than a rem and not useable in one. Id buy a few of those cheap takeoff barrels for a gage. dusty and guns prob even have some.
 
You probably ought to buy the one you plan on using and fit to that for sure just incase your tap doesnt get there. G3 would be where id start with springback at a minimum. If they cut to spec you may need a bit bigger to give the correct looseness desired in a barrel joint. You may be better off just single pointing it. If it was me id skip the prefit just because youll already have it set up in the lathe and id take that goofy taper off the end so you can have a believable barrel shoulder
Not for me. It's a thought I've had for a while, mentioned it to a customer that was asking about a rebarrel and he bit- he also owns a T-3.

I get a lot of inquiries on rebarreling these (been doing it for a decade) but understandably- many aren't keen on dropping six bills for a custom, shouldered rebarrel on these old warhorses. If I can get the receiver spec nailed down to duplicate factory, prefits should work no differently than if used on the Tikka action, and it would be relatively inexpensive to tap the receiver threads (as opposed to single-pointing/truing-then I'm back into the "too expensive" camp). I "think" I could do this for $100-$125 or so, which combined with bushing the boltface for non-54R chamberings could still end up at a reasonable cost for a project. Some of these guys just want something different :)
 

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