Tikka T3 300 WSM F Open Rifle

[260AckImp]

Hello Everyone

I just thought id put my idea for a new F Open rifle up here and see if anyone in the community has either done something similar or if people have any pointers/tips to help me.

Ive recently picked up a GRS Hybrid stock on sale to suit a Tikka T3/T3X and I also picked up a very cheap Tikka chambered in 300 WSM that's been treated poorly and the barrel is basically a paper weight now.

My idea is to get my Smith to take the Tikka apart, true action/check it over for any defects and then get him to install a long target barrel (30" heavy varmint Bartlein/Krieger etc) and chamber it in 300 WSM.

Has anyone here done something along these lines? I don't expect to keep up with guys shooting Barnards/Kelblys etc but id like to be competitive if Im shooting well and find a good load.

My main concern is hanging a big long heavy barrel off the front of an action that has a magazine well instead of a rigid strong single shot target action.

Any thoughts, tips or just plain banter greatly appreciated.

Cheers

(Have attached photo of said GRS Hybrid Stock)

 

[Bindi2]

weigh all componets before you start the build. The measurement from the bolt slot to the front of the forend should not be greater than 500mm. Don't be afraid to cut the forend . Add the weight you cut off to the muzzle as a tuner to a maximum of 10% of the barrel weight. Don't add weight to the stock add it to the barrel. If you come in under 10kgs ok if under by a lot put a heavier barrel on

 

[Kurz]

Be sure to check the rules which apply to the rifle design and weigh before building in order say time and dollars.

Action rigidity can be improved by machining a single shot insert to fit the magazine cutout in the action. Glue it in.

Stress-free bedding will also help alleviate some of the big, long barrel stress.

A tuner might also be beneficial.

While good equipment is essential, it is the rifle drive who adds in the final ingredients for top scores. Wind reading is essential as well if not more.

 

[Capt. Oblivious]

The Tikka is a fantastic platform and wont hold you back and the action will support the barrel allot of guys hang those lengths on them over here but im not sure about the stock, that plam is very weird for me but If you like it you should have a steller setup there.

This one doesnt just run with the full customs it spanks them to when it comes to steel at very long ranges and it shoot very very small at a 1000

 

[260AckImp]

Thank you everyone for the replies and advice, greatly appreciated.

The measurement from the bolt slot to the front of the forend should not be greater than 500mm. Don't be afraid to cut the forend . Add the weight you cut off to the muzzle as a tuner to a maximum of 10% of the barrel weight. Don't add weight to the stock add it to the barrel. If you come in under 10kgs ok if under by a lot put a heavier barrel on

Im pretty green when it comes to F Class shooting, I understand the weight limit of 10kg but why does the forend need to be no longer than 500mm?

 

[FeMan]

I have a couple Tikka T3s and love them. If you are having the action trued, I would suggest having the receiver faced and a Remington-style recoil lug added. I did that on one of mine and chambered it in 284 Win and it is nothing short of amazing.

 

[260AckImp]

I have a couple Tikka T3s and love them. If you are having the action trued, I would suggest having the receiver faced and a Remington-style recoil lug added. I did that on one of mine and chambered it in 284 Win and it is nothing short of amazing.

Does that recoil lug setup help with action strength and to support the big long barrel?

 

[Bc'z]

Hello Everyone

I just thought id put my idea for a new F Open rifle up here and see if anyone in the community has either done something similar or if people have any pointers/tips to help me.

Ive recently picked up a GRS Hybrid stock on sale to suit a Tikka T3/T3X and I also picked up a very cheap Tikka chambered in 300 WSM that's been treated poorly and the barrel is basically a paper weight now.

My idea is to get my Smith to take the Tikka apart, true action/check it over for any defects and then get him to install a long target barrel (30" heavy varmint Bartlein/Krieger etc) and chamber it in 300 WSM.

Has anyone here done something along these lines? I don't expect to keep up with guys shooting Barnards/Kelblys etc but id like to be competitive if Im shooting well and find a good load.

My main concern is hanging a big long heavy barrel off the front of an action that has a magazine well instead of a rigid strong single shot target action.

Any thoughts, tips or just plain banter greatly appreciated.

Cheers

(Have attached photo of said GRS Hybrid Stock)View attachment 1142333 View attachment 1142334

I love that stock

 

[Bindi2]

Thank you everyone for the replies and advice, greatly appreciated.




Im pretty green when it comes to F Class shooting, I understand the weight limit of 10kg but why does the forend need to be no longer than 500mm?

Its to do with the balance of the rig to rifle behaviour. The stock and the action / barrel are to different components making up the rifle. If the stock is wrong the result is a buck jumper same with barrel. Your stock is on the heavy side so balance is critical. The 10kg weight is maximum it dosent mean you have to be close to it in fact your rifle may handle best well away from 10kg when every thing is in harmony. My 7 06 AI FO rifle comes in under 8.5 kgs.

 

[Dud]

Is that 500mm an F-Open rule?

I would like to try out the Tikka action. It looks very strong with the shape of it's action.

I am messing around with a Savage Axis, it has a magazine cut and an ejection port, it's not an open top. I'm hoping it's a good match to a 31" barrel. Your Tikka should be better.

The recoil lug thing is similar on an Axis except both the notch and lug are gross. My plan always had face the receiver and add a 110 style recoil lug. For a Tikka, they seem to be much more nicely made, I'm not sure the stock recoil lug causes any problems but people face them to remove the taper so that they can make it look nice with a larger shank barrel. I doubt there is much difference but a larger barrel shank might be better with the wider shoulder. I have heard that the elastic stress in a threaded fastener is mostly carried in the first three threads, since there are many more threads than that, the shoulder might be a good trade-off.

It looks like my rifle is going to wind up similar in dimensions. I should see if it makes sense to make mine F-Open legal on the off chance that I ever take it to a match.

 

[260AckImp]

Its to do with the balance of the rig to rifle behaviour. The stock and the action / barrel are to different components making up the rifle. If the stock is wrong the result is a buck jumper same with barrel. Your stock is on the heavy side so balance is critical. The 10kg weight is maximum it dosent mean you have to be close to it in fact your rifle may handle best well away from 10kg when every thing is in harmony. My 7 06 AI FO rifle comes in under 8.5 kgs.

Ok that's good information to know, thanks for the advice.

Ive been doing some quick sums regarding weight and so far numbers are the following:

GRS Hybrid stock: 3.5lbs
Tikka Action (found on this forum): 1.9lbs
30" Heavy Varmint Barrel: 7lbs? (Bit of an estimate)
Optics: 2.3lbs (again just a estimate)

Total: 14.7lbs

Id like to if possible get it up closer to 20lbs but these are mostly just estimates.

Can anyone here give me some more accurate numbers or advice to help.
Ill definitely be measuring the bolt slot to the end of the forend too see if it needs trimming

 

[Bindi2]

500 mm is not an Open rule it is a starting point. Mark the stock at 500 move your bump stopper so the mark is at the front of the rest test and move accordingly using a video in slow mo to see the results. I have one at 490mm.
Go with what you have then add the extra to the muzzle 10% max of barrel weight. DONT be concerned about the 10kgs or being close set the rifle stock combo to be in harmony and it will be a joy to shoot all day.

 

[260AckImp]

500 mm is not an Open rule it is a starting point. Mark the stock at 500 move your bump stopper so the mark is at the front of the rest test and move accordingly using a video in slow mo to see the results. I have one at 490mm.
Go with what you have then add the extra to the muzzle 10% max of barrel weight. DONT be concerned about the 10kgs or being close set the rifle stock combo to be in harmony and it will be a joy to shoot all day.

I should of mentioned this from the start but ill be using a JoyPod bipod instead of a front rest setup, does that change anything as far as setting up the stock?

 

[Bindi2]

I should of mentioned this from the start but ill be using a JoyPod bipod instead of a front rest setup, does that change anything as far as setting up the stock?

No is more critical because you don't have the tension of the side bag on the stock. Put a long rail in if you don't want to cut the stock from the go. When you have the sweet spot then cut and add the weight to the barrel to a max of 10% or if under weight start with 10% there anyway.

 

[Willow]

I have run a Tikka in F-open when first getting into the sport, first as a 6.5x47 with a 26 inch barrel (fluted bull profile) and secondly as a straight 284 with a 30 inch heavy varmint profile and would recommend a couple of things:

A 32" heavy varmint is as heavy as my gunsmith recommended (and he's one of the best out there) - The Tikka action isn't strong enough to support a straight through truck axle;
The action generally does not need to be trued - these things are bloody straight out of the box and at worst you may want to lap the lugs and leave it at that; and lastly
Get yourself a Bix'n'Andy trigger if you're going to shoot F-open, this trigger is expensive but will put a smile on your face the first time you use it.
As a longer term plan I'd save towards a better F-open stock, something along the lines of a lowboy, or Cerus or Joe West, they track better in the bags which you will appreciate.

 

[260AckImp]

I have run a Tikka in F-open when first getting into the sport, first as a 6.5x47 with a 26 inch barrel (fluted bull profile) and secondly as a straight 284 with a 30 inch heavy varmint profile and would recommend a couple of things:

A 32" heavy varmint is as heavy as my gunsmith recommended (and he's one of the best out there) - The Tikka action isn't strong enough to support a straight through truck axle;
The action generally does not need to be trued - these things are bloody straight out of the box and at worst you may want to lap the lugs and leave it at that; and lastly
Get yourself a Bix'n'Andy trigger if you're going to shoot F-open, this trigger is expensive but will put a smile on your face the first time you use it.
As a longer term plan I'd save towards a better F-open stock, something along the lines of a lowboy, or Cerus or Joe West, they track better in the bags which you will appreciate.

Thanks very much for your reply mate, I was planning on going no longer than 30" and a Heavy Varmint profile as from the start I didnt think the Tikka would handle a big long truck axle like you have mentioned.

I was unaware Bix n Andy made a tikka trigger, will definately look into that.

Lastly, how did you find the performance of those Tikka rifles when compared to your dedicated target actions? Did you expirence that you were held back by using a Tikka action?

 

[Willow]

Thanks very much for your reply mate, I was planning on going no longer than 30" and a Heavy Varmint profile as from the start I didnt think the Tikka would handle a big long truck axle like you have mentioned.

I was unaware Bix n Andy made a tikka trigger, will definately look into that.

Lastly, how did you find the performance of those Tikka rifles when compared to your dedicated target actions? Did you expirence that you were held back by using a Tikka action?

I currently run Barnard actions in both my F-open guns, do they make a difference? Hard to say, I prefer the smoothness of the Tikka, the main difference is the Barnard can handle a truck axle, so it was more about the weight of the gun as mine comes in at 9.6kg. My Tikka now sits in a Manners PRS stock/mini chassis and I prefer it over my Kelbly Atlas tactical.

 

[260AckImp]

I currently run Barnard actions in both my F-open guns, do they make a difference? Hard to say, I prefer the smoothness of the Tikka, the main difference is the Barnard can handle a truck axle, so it was more about the weight of the gun as mine comes in at 9.6kg. My Tikka now sits in a Manners PRS stock/mini chassis and I prefer it over my Kelbly Atlas tactical.

Yeah after crunching some numbers Im estimating that my rifle with the GRS stock and a Heavy varmint barrel will come in around 15lbs and id like it to be up at 20lbs or so.

 

[FeMan]

Does that recoil lug setup help with action strength and to support the big long barrel?

I am not qualified to answer that question, but my inclination is "no". I did it to try and improve the bedding of the action. I never trusted the Tikka recoil lug and thought it contributed to a slight wandering zero on both Tikkas (they always shot tight but the POI seemed to change as much as 1 moa between ranger sessions....). Anyway, The rebarrel to 284 with the lug produced a tight shooting and reliable rifle. I am thinking of doing that to my 300 WSM now too.

 

[Ares]

Yeah after crunching some numbers Im estimating that my rifle with the GRS stock and a Heavy varmint barrel will come in around 15lbs and id like it to be up at 20lbs or so.

You might want to look up Mr. Dixon from LRI. They have done a lot of work on the T3s. And produce traditional style recoil lugs, ala R700 for the T3, properly contoured. For a much improved bedding solution.