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Tika T3 problems

I am having a problem with my Tika T3 in 338 and am hope full someone can help. I am trying to work up a load for this rifle. I have tried IMR4350, IMR7828, IMR4895, H414 with Nosler 210 and 225 grain partition and 225 grain Nosler Accubond bullets. The best group I get is with 72 grains of IMR4350 and the 210 partition bullet but that's 2 inch group using a little imagination. The thing that really worries me is you don't know where the first round will go. After you fire the first round then it settles down somewhat but still will not get below 2 inches. I am tempted to send this rifle down the road but I wish I knew what the problem was. I reload smaller calibers with pretty good results but maybe the belted stuff is different.Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
get some 1 to look at it with a bore scope.then if all is well swap bullets over to swifts or hornadys.I dont own 1 bat a friend had 1 in a ruger that he had troubles with like that.
 
I bought a T3 for my girlfriend in 7mm-08 and had the same problem with Factory loads ! I put a Limb saver barrel resonator on it and reload only for it and it shoots in the .3-.5 class with either Varget or WW 760 powder and 150 grain Nosler or Sierra boat tail bullets . Do you have some H 1000,H4831 or Retumbo to try ? You didn't mention about your primers? Try some Federal 215 M or 215 GM . Then if you have no 'Luck' then send it back to the Factory to be fixed or replaced as they have that guarantee that it will shoot into an inch ?
Good Luck.
 
Yep, it can be stress-full; as there could be several reasons!
1)If the brl has no serious pressure-points anywhere along the forehand, 2)all the action-screws are hand-tight and 3)the brl'ed action is correctly fitted with the loose recoil-lug properly fitted in the 'cut-out' slot intended for it and not screwed down roughly and sitting right on top of it and putting lots of stress on all parts, then 4) have your gunsmith check the headspace; if oke; 5) then he might have to pull the brl.-off and check the brl's tread-fitting; as it sounds to me there could be something wrong with the brl-shank to receiver-face fit? If the tread-fit is all oke, not too loose & not too tight, with no serious tread-errors and the brl's face & receiver-face are all faced-off squarely, then 6) last reason could be the worst: maybe your brl has some brl-tension/-stress, wich makes the brl start to wander around after heating-up under firing? 'Cryo'- or Re heat-treathing could certainly help here, but cost-wise; you would be better-off with replacing it with a good quality aftermarket brl.
> I would start with 1 & 4 and then proceed straight back to 3; wich is usually the 'cullpritt'? Hope this helps you out a bit?
Cheers,
Jan
 
Is your first shot that is way off out of a clean bore? If it is there is your problem. I have never had a rifle that will put a round fired through a clean bore to the same POI as those shot through a fouled bore. It does sound to me like you have a bedding problem though. I would glass the action and free float the barrel if it was mine.
 
Bedding-problems would show up with every shot, not only with the first. If all of the beforementioned things have been checked and nothing has been found,,except pulling the brl., wich you can keep as a last resort), you can try following:
*As my shots are always the same POI out of a cleaned, cold & 'lubed' brl! Yes, I never ever shoot my bore 'dry'! Make sure you're running a slightly wet patch trough the bore, followed up with a smaller dry patch; this leaves a tiny micro-thin layer of oil,I mostly use 'Ballistol')behind in the bore, wich doesn't harm your brl., but basically duplicates the 'fouling' shot! It has always worked for me! As long as you don't use thicker oil and don't overdo it and leave the brl 'soaked' in lots of oil; as this could cause shooting 'rings' in the brl!
See how yah go mate?
J.K.
 

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