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TIG a bolt handle

DickE

Gold $$ Contributor
If a factory bolt handle is timed and primary extraction is very good, can the bolt handle be TIG welded without removal? In other words, left soldered on, then tigged in place.
 
Egg,
Is your reply in reference to the preparation for silver brazing or TIG welding?

Some inexperienced, have attempted the reverse -
Fusion TIG welding a handle onto a bolt body & then attempting to silver braze or soft solder to assist their improper procedure.
 
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Egg,
Is your reply in reference to the preparation for silver brazing or TIG welding?

Some inexperienced, have attempted the reverse -
Fusion TIG welding a handle onto a bolt body & then attempting to silver braze or soft solder to assist their improper procedure.
Dans, I was refering to TIG welding. I agree with your " improper procedure" statement 100%. If your TIG welding procedures are sound ( clean rust and oil free metal along with proper joint preparation, depending on whether you have a fillet or butt joint) the weld will be stronger than your base metal and there will be no need or benefit to booger up your bolt handle with silver solder. I would also weld it with filler metal and not just fusion weld it.

And.......I would not quench the weld, you run the risk of creating micro fractures in the weld if it cools down to quickly. Let it cool down on its own or better yet wrap it in some kind of insulated blanket so it will cool down real slow and let the molecules go back close the their natural position.
 
Last edited:
Dans, I was refering to TIG welding. I agree with your " improper procedure" statement 100%. If your TIG welding procedures are sound ( clean rust and oil free metal along with proper joint preparation, depending on whether you have a fillet or butt joint) the weld will be stronger than your base metal and there will be no need or benefit to booger up your bolt handle with silver solder. I would also weld it with filler metal and not just fusion weld it.

And.......I would not quench the weld, you run the risk of creating micro fractures in the weld if it cools down to quickly. Let it cool down on its own or better yet wrap it in some kind of insulated blanket so it will cool down real slow and let the molecules go back close the their natural position.



You are speaking to the MASTER!
 
From a couple decades of using a TIG (GTAW) welder for building race cars I can tell you that anything present in the weld zone with a lower boiling point than the base metals is a major problem to trying to weld there. It will not work. You will make a mess.
 
Been a welder for 30 years. For proper TIG welding both surfaces have to be clean, solder between the two is not clean. The arc will melt the solder instantly and what weld you may get to stay will be loaded with porosity and contaminated with the remnants of the solder. It will load up on the tungsten causing an erratic arc. Don't try it unless you want a bad experience. Better to separate,clean everything up and use a bolt fixture to TIG it together.
 

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