Thoughts on a walnut blank....

[Xerothermic]

This chunk of walnut has been listed on CL for about a month. Poster says it's for a Winchester, for what that's worth. Thinking about buying this to have it replicated into a Rem 788 LH stock but have no idea as to what to look for in size of the blank, checkering, etc. Basically, how do I tell an acceptable blank from a non-acceptable one for replication purposes? Is the price within reason?

https://tucson.craigslist.org/spo/d/tucson-rifle-stock/7579862322.html

 

[shortgrass]

I'd wanna' see more of it, than just that one pic. Looks like it's been cut down to be put on a duplicator.

 

[Twdmar]

This picture is awful, I'm not surprised it hasn't sold. If it was really cut in the 50s, it may be a nice piece of wood or it may be a dried out piece of firewood.
The grain in a properly cut blank should flow in the direction of the grip and not straight, parallel to the top of the stock. A pretty standard blank thickness is 2.25".
It looks like it could be adapted to any action because right now it's just a piece of wood.
If I was buying it from a person with legit stock making knowledge I wouldn't worry but I think you'll want to get a closer look or more pictures.

 

[shortgrass]

Many selling wood they've had around for awhile that don't really know what it is.

 

[Bob3700]

U definitely want a bunch of pictures or view in person . U want to inspect the entire blank for obvious defects. U also want to make sure the blank size will make the stock u are looking for.

 

[Xerothermic]

Thanks, for the wisdom. If it has been laying around for around for seventy years, I figure it dried as much as it going to. How dry is too dry and what about the price? I'm going to go and take a looksee for grain and size. I don't have a moisture meter, so how do I test if it's kindling or not?

 

[Bob3700]

Inspect for insect bore holes and any other defective places on the blank. Realize that once u start the profiling process, u can end up with various surprises under the surface.

Take a foos straightedge to see if both sides of the blank are straight. Is the blank warped front to back, is the blank thick enough thru it’s length for the stock u want.

lot of things to look at.

 

[shortgrass]

The ends should be sealed usually with wax. No cracks, anywhere. No knots, there may be an unrepairable void. Too much figure in the forearm invites movement (warping) . 2 3/8" thick, minimum if you want a cheek piece, 2 1/2 ain't bad either. Look for any twist in the blank.

 

[Sniperhandle]

Ask @joshb

 

[Xerothermic]

Ask @joshb

Well. . . I'm going to ask when I get over there to eyeball it. But knowing what to ask is what I have you guys for. Oh, you meant joshb. I didn't know what the @ meant and thought it was you for some reason. I don't like to target individuals with questions. I do read what he offers up, but I received a lot of good info from this thread.

Thanks, all!

 

[joshb]

Well. . . I'm going to ask when I get over there to eyeball it. But knowing what to ask is what I have you guys for. Oh, you meant joshb. I didn't know what the @ meant and thought it was you for some reason. I don't like to target individuals with questions. I do read what he offers up, but I received a lot of good info from this thread.

Thanks, all!

Hey! Here I is! Given it’s age, it should be dry enough. The walnut I use is 50 years old. Ask them where it was stored. A damp basement isn’t a good answer.
Take a look at it. If it’s big enough for you and it’s not twisted or cracked, it could work. As a reference, the Tiger maple blanks I’ve been using cost me $50 each.

 

[Xerothermic]

Hey! Here I is! Given it’s age, it should be dry enough. The walnut I use is 50 years old. Ask them where it was stored. A damp basement isn’t a good answer.
Take a look at it. If it’s big enough for you and it’s not twisted or cracked, it could work. As a reference, the Tiger maple blanks I’ve been using cost me $50 each.

I know you probably buy wholesale but this is CL so who knows. I will offer $50 after I've inspected, measured and gleaned what I can from the owner. If all is good, I'll buy it. I've asked to see the wood on Wednesday.

Thanks for replying.

 

[joshb]

Ok. Give me an update.. If it doesn’t work out, I have some other ideas.
Josh

 

[Xerothermic]

Ok. Give me an update.. If it doesn’t work out, I have some other ideas.
Josh

O'k.

 

[Xerothermic]

Well, I did not buy the stock. I took a 4' level with me, thanks to Bob3700, and it had a healthy bow in it front to back. So, I bowed out. Other than that, it looked good grain wise. The gentleman selling was an interesting guy. A seasoned reloader of many calibers. We BS'd for an hour.

He did say that he got the stock from a guy, years ago, that made stocks for Winchester here in Tucson back in the fifties. He couldn't remember his name though.

Anyways, thanks for all the advice in how to eyeball the wood. I learned a lot and you all probably save me some coin.

 

[joshb]

Ok. I can dig around here and see what I have. Give me the rough dimensions of what you want to build. I had a 788 but I sold it.
Josh

 

[Xerothermic]

Ok. I can dig around here and see what I have. Give me the rough dimensions of what you want to build. I had a 788 but I sold it.
Josh

Let me think on that so I don't sound like an idiot. Do you replicate, I don't remember.

 

[joshb]

No. You’d have to talk to another guy on here. I’m old and I forgot his name.

 

[tac284]

If you are looking for someone to potentially duplicate a rifle stock @jghoghunter is your man.