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This Rifle won't Shoot! Diagnosing the issue(s).

I know normally speed = stability, but was curious as to an answer from those who are running the calculations on these bullets, and giving us the Stability Factor numbers
The difference from 3,600 to 3,800 with the bullets you're working with is right at .02 difference in stability.

Withing the realistic limits of any cases velocity capabity, speed means close to zip in the stability picture....just another old wives tale regarding stability.

Why not run this stuff on the JBM site using the links provided and see the results for yourself? Onve you have the bullet length, it takes all of 30 seconds to input your parameters and get an answer.

Respectfully, I don’t savvy the reluctance.......
 
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The difference from 3,600 to 3,800 with the bullets you're working with is right at .02 difference in stability.

Withing the realistic limits of any cases velocity capabity, speed means close to zip in the stability picture....just another old wives tale regarding stability.

Why not run this stuff on the JBM site using the links provided and see the results for yourself? Onve you have the bullet length, it takes all of 30 seconds to input your parameters and get an answer.

Respectfully, I don’t savvy the reluctance.......
This ^^^^
 
I never read all the posts . But first I would remove the bedding in front of the recoil lug . The cut out on the bottom of the action will act as a recoil lug . Next I would bed the whole action and the screw in the action under the bolt needs to screw into a threaded pillar . That is the way mine is done . Don't have a picture because mine is a glue in also .1753455085302.png
 
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This action only has two screws, one on the bottom in the front, the other comes in from the top, under the bolt, and can't be tightened down too much, not sure of actual suggested torque, but bottom screw the gunsmith that built it told me 35 inch pounds on the bottom screw.

View attachment 1679455
The screw under the bolt has to screw into a threaded pillar . And the whole action has to be bedded . It will never shoot good untill the XP100 action is bedded right .
 
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I'm going to test these new Nosler bullets, and see how they do. Then, address the bedding issues, etc. One change at a time, see what happens with each one.
That's the way to approach this.

BTW, my last .17 was a 10 twist 17-223 on an XP action. It shot the Nosler 20 gr. HPFB into sub 3/8" groups....they give good accuracy.

Over the course of a dozen really good 17's from the Mach IV's, Javelina's and .17 Remington's, the barrels .168/.172 bore/groove dimensions can be very unforgiving when it come to throat erosion and especially so when it comes to wear on the leading edges of the rifling. Even the 'small' cases like the Mach IV aren't really 'small' when you start looking at the Expansion Ratio and compare it to other cartridges of larger bore sizes.

Long way around to say that after shooting the Nosler 20 FBHP in it, I'd get a bore scope in there before going much further.
 
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That's the way to approach this.

BTW, my last .17 was a 10 twist 17-223 on an XP action. It shot the Nosler 20 gr. HPFB into sub 3/8" groups....it gives good accuracy.

Over the course of a dozen really good 17's from the Mach IV's, Javelina's and .17 Remington's, the barrels .168/.172 bore/groove dimensions can be very unforgiving when it come to throat erosion and especiall so when it comes to wear on the leading edges of the rifling. Even the 'small' cases like the Mach IV aren't really 'small' when you start looking at the Expansion Ratio and compare it to other cartridges of larger bore sizes.

Long way around to say that after shooting the Nosler 20 FBHP in it, I'd get a bore scope in there before going much further.
People who know things!
 
That's the way to approach this.

BTW, my last .17 was a 10 twist 17-223 on an XP action. It shot the Nosler 20 gr. HPFB into sub 3/8" groups....they give good accuracy.

Over the course of a dozen really good 17's from the Mach IV's, Javelina's and .17 Remington's, the barrels .168/.172 bore/groove dimensions can be very unforgiving when it come to throat erosion and especially so when it comes to wear on the leading edges of the rifling. Even the 'small' cases like the Mach IV aren't really 'small' when you start looking at the Expansion Ratio and compare it to other cartridges of larger bore sizes.

Long way around to say that after shooting the Nosler 20 FBHP in it, I'd get a bore scope in there before going much further.
If I could get a borescope that fit 17 caliber, I would definitely do that! I have a Teslong that goes down to 20 cal, but I have looked, recently, for one that can use a 90 degree mirror and fit into a 17 cal, and no luck so far.
 
Al has some very good advice.
At the end of the day the target tells the story, if you run the numbers on the Berger 55's with a 9 twist it says marginal but they shoot awesome out to 665 in my 20BRA and others also.
Altitude will do more for stability than speed ever will.
 
If I could get a borescope that fit 17 caliber, I would definitely do that! I have a Teslong that goes down to 20 cal, but I have looked, recently, for one that can use a 90 degree mirror and fit into a 17 cal, and no luck so far.
Hawkeye makes a specific .17 cal bore scope. You may want to check in your area. -Al
 
This is a photo of a XP100 action and the cutout on the bottom of the action is your recoil lug needs to be bedded and from the screw under the bolt back can free float or from the front of the trigger back . the screw under the bolt needs to screw into a pillar . And you don't need a recoil lug .
 

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This is a photo of a XP100 action and the cutout on the bottom of the action is your recoil lug needs to be bedded and from the screw under the bolt back can free float or from the front of the trigger back . the screw under the bolt needs to screw into a pillar . And you don't need a recoil lug .
So, you're suggesting the recess in the center bottom of the action is what needs to be bedded, no need for a front recoil lug behind the barrel, and the area the area below the Rear action threaded hole needs a pillar under it, not sure I follow everything, and why you say that... I'll chat with my gunsmith about what needs to be done.

17MIV Action2.jpg

17MIV Bedding.jpg
 

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