The First 100 Rounds

[junkyard_dog45]

Let's say you just got that new rifle you've been saving for and 100 rounds of shiny new brass that you're gone use for those 1/4 moa reloads. You also got a couple of boxes of good factory stuff too.

So we all know that you can break-in the barrel,by whatever method you choose), sight-in the scope and fire-form the cases.

Now here's my question...

What else can you do? What other information can you get? Can you get some accurate info about factory loads? Work on some good reloads? What?

Or, are you stuck in getting any of this until the next go around?

The reason I ask is that I got a Remington 700P in 300 Win Mag not long ago and it dawned on me that assuming barrel life is about 1000 rounds for top accuracy, I was going to be using up 10% of it just in break-in and fire-forming brass.

That's seems like a fairly high price to pay and I like getting my $$$ worth if I can.

 

[Lane]

Let's say you just got that new rifle you've been saving for and 100 rounds of shiny new brass that you're gone use for those 1/4 moa reloads. You also got a couple of boxes of good factory stuff too.

So we all know that you can break-in the barrel,by whatever method you choose), sight-in the scope and fire-form the cases.

Now here's my question...

What else can you do? What other information can you get? Can you get some accurate info about factory loads? Work on some good reloads? What?

Or, are you stuck in getting any of this until the next go around?

The reason I ask is that I got a Remington 700P in 300 Win Mag not long ago and it dawned on me that assuming barrel life is about 1000 rounds for top accuracy, I was going to be using up 10% of it just in break-in and fire-forming brass.

That's seems like a fairly high price to pay and I like getting my $$$ worth if I can.

Factory barrel/chamber and barrel brake-in what-ever! Your on your own with theory on this subject!Assuming your new factory ammunition is all the same head stamp, type ),bullet weight). Assuming you will fire form all of this type specific brass in your particular chamber. Assuming you have a dial caliper or micrometer, head space gage for case measurements. I would advise you measure the dimensions/tolerances at the case web, the case shoulder, the case neck, and the datum point of the case of your factory ammunition before you fire any ammunition. Measurements this way will tell you much about your particular chamber and set a baseline for you to work from and always refer back to. Measure your cases before you fire them. measure your case after you fire them to acquire a master case for particular rifle chamber, and give you a baseline for reference for expansion numbers with specific areas of the case/chamber. Doing things this way you know have a master case to reference any run out in your rifle chamber and any work you will do in the future and determine re-sizing method, full, partial, neck sizing) and correct die adjustment. If you accept the theory a fire-formed case will have no run-out when measured with a concentric gage then your fire-formed cases will tell you much about your rifle chamber and any re-sizing method you may or may not take advantage of, die adjustments). Your fire-formed cases fired in your specific chamber will tell you much if you have the knowledge and tools to understand and acquire the information. In my opinion you need to start with correct measurements and document them. Your first measurements are your foundation to base all your work off of before you fire them in your specific chamber. Interesting questions! New brass, new rifle/chamber belted case, lots of fire power your in for a great ride if you have the passion for the subject of re-loading hand loading! Assuming you have not worked with a belted case may or may not mean anything to you now, but it will! You will have lot's of fun for years! The accuracy potential and longevity of the accuracy potential of your rifle will at some point come down to you and your efforts, passion) in my opinion. Good luck Lane.

 

[robbor]

Im no expert but I always jb the bore of the new rifle a few times before I take it out. Usually I end up using the first 10 or so breakin round to also zero the scope. Then Ill start shooting groups knowing that they usually get more accurate as the load increases. I shoot slow and allow lots of cooling time. Usually I dont have to put more than 50 rounds down it before I get something acceptable. I also make sure the barrel is floated very well, and trigger is adjusted down before I take it out. Normal loading, .010 off the lands with recomended powders. Dont worry about your barrel life, it is what it is, just try not to shoot alot of rounds all togather and get the barrel really hot.