The 30BR just got easier!

[Gollum]

Received this reply from Redding today:

"Thank you for your interest in Redding Reloading Equipment. We’ve added the 30 BR to our 2006 catalog as standard production. A Type S FL Die is part number 77524, and it lists for $99.00. You can purchase the die at discounted pricing from any of our dealers."

This should make getting a 30BR going just a little easier!

 

[Ogre6br]

yippee

 

[AlNyhus]

Dies for the 30BR are already easy:
-Harrels or JLC body/neck/decapping die: $75-80
-Wilson 30BR seating die: $38.
These are all you need. For $125 you're in business.

The big thing to consider on the new Redding die is: what internal dimensions are they? The Wilson seater is spec'd off the 'Robinett' 30BR reamer and the Harrels and JLC dies are a perfect fit right out of the box. Hopefully, Redding has followed this with their new die?

 

[Gollum]

Good question. I used a Redding 7BR type-s FL die, and opened up the neck,with a dremel tool out of desperation), and it seems to work ok for now. I fireformed 50 rounds, and then resized. Didn't seem to feel like it was sizing the brass a lot.

I had emailed JLC a couple months ago, and I was led to believe that I would be getting into $125-$150 range to get a 30BR die done by the time I sent him the Redding small base die and 3 pieces of fired brass. Unfortunately my computer had a melt down, and I lost the email,honestly!) I'll check that again, I would go that way for that money.

The Wilson seater does work great also.

 

[AlNyhus]

If you are using a 'Robinett' spec. reamer,ie; one for use with the Lapua 6BR parent case), the Redding #75317 6BR Body Die,$20.70 from Sinclair) works perfectly. For $35, JLC will modify this die to take a neck sizing button and decapping rod. You'll need a decapping stem assy. also. I use a Redding #32223,$11.25) for the 22PPC as it has the small decapping pin and the expander doesn't need to be reduced in diameter. So, this should add up to a bit under $70. JLC does offer custom fit dies..this is what you're probably refering to, but there is no need to go this route with the 30BR, again provided your reamer is as mentioned. I've had 3 6BR dies modified by JLC in this fashion and they work great. Matter of fact, I've got another one there right now that he's doing for a very unusual 30BR project.

You can also go the Harrels route...send 'em 3 fired cases and a little over $70 and you're ready to rock. Some prefer to go this route right from the start, as they will exchange dies if the one you have doesn't size correctly. Reamer makers work to tolerances and sometimes we end up with a reamer than is a bit + or - from the specs. even though it's well with the tolerance range. Normally this doesn't cause any problems, but when you really start to open the throttle, another .001 or so of chamber/die dimensions and how they work together can either severely limit a rigs potential or allow it to reach the next level of accuracy and velocity...depends on how tolerances start to work for or against you.

Either way works well. With the 30BR, dies are easy. :thumb:

Both of these dies are covered in this link: http://www.6mmbr.com/accessories.html

 

[Gollum]

Al: Speaking of Wilson 30BR seating dies- -do you use the micrometer top for setting seating depth, or just the plain top that you set in place with a screwdriver and a set screw?

 

[AlNyhus]

Personally, I like the plain 'standard' Wilson seater, pn. W30BRS in the Sinclair catalog. I had one of the stainless micrometer Wilson seaters for the 30BR and it was a very well done die. Both worked great and have the same internal dimensions. I would have preferred that the stainless version have a longer seating stem, though.

The standard Wilson seater has 40 TPI threads, so it's very easy to make seating depth changes just by using the screw slot at the top of the seater stem as a reference.

A bit off topic, but I guess you could say that my gear tends to be very simple with a minimum of gadgets, gizmos and trinkets. I have quite a bit of BR loading gear, etc. that is made specifically for it's intended purpose,thanks to Stan Ware :thumb: ) but none of it is any more complex or 'trick' than is actually needed to perform it's function.

Like Thoreau said: "Simplify, simplify, simplify."

Good shootin'. -Al