Tell me about a switch barrel rifles

[Steave]

I see quite a bit about switch barrel rifles, but have a few questions that I hope some of you guys can help me with.

When I think of changing barrels on a bolt action rifle, I think of a heavy bench vise, action wrench's, setting headspace, etc, in other words, a somewhat major gunsmithing operation. However, I get the impression from some of the threads I've read that this isn't the case and when a rifle is set up as a switch barrel, changing the barrel is very easy, not much more of a difficult proposition than popping the bolt out of a rifle. The only barrels I am familiar with that I consider quick change are some belt-fed machine guns like the MAG-58/M240, M60, MG34, MG42, etc, all of these barrels are fixed headspace and can be changed out in a matter of seconds. Can the barrels be changed this easily on switch barrel bolt action rifles? Can these barrels be changed easily in the field or is a shop required? Any other info I should know or consider if I am thinking about a switch barrel set up?

Sorry for what are probably elementary questions and thanks for any info and/or advice.

Steave

 

[jo191145]

Heres one way to go about it.

http://www.lprgunsmith.com/lpr_switch_rifle.htm

Some folks consider the Savage design as a switch barrel. Its definately not as fast as a true switch barrel rig but it surely allows many barrels for one action.

 

[fdshuster]

Steave: One way of doing it as referenced by Joe. I do it a little different, same results. When having my rifles re-barreled, if I want them as a switch-barrel, I tell my gunsmith to set it up. He fits the barrel and tightens it down to 65 ft. lbs. I then use the Davidson rear entry receiver wrench ( to fit my Rem. 700's), the Davidson barrel vise, ( shown in Sinclairs 2010-A catalog, page 182), a Snap-on 200 ft. lb. torque wrench, the proper go-gauge, and a few other items one would normally have on hand. Takes about 35 to 40 minutes to switch. Have never had a problem getting repeat headspace dimensions with the fixed shoulder on my Rem 700's, but have had some minor problems with the Savage with the barrel nut(s). All the more reason when I have a Savage re-barreled it will be without the barrel nut, same as a Rem 700. Really no big deal, as long as you have the proper tools.

 

[Steave]

Thanks guys. I guess that really answers my question, a switch barrel simply gives one the option and ability to change barrels, but it really isn't a quick change barrel and is more involved than the machine guns I referenced. Not that that is an issue, I just wanted to know exactly what I was dealing with and what to expect.

If it matters it will more than likely be a Remington 700 action in 6BR, not sure what calibers I would do for additional barrel(s.) Just exploring my options.

Thanks again, folks!

Steave

 

[jo191145]

Steave

The link I provided shows a shouldered barrel with "nut" milled in the end.
According to Larry you simply put a socket or box wrench on the end and give it a good smack with your hand to loosen. No vices, action wrenchs or guages required.

Now some folks will argue you need barrels tourqed to 125lbs. Others have good luck hand tight.

 

[Kenny474]

I shoot a few Savage's, and I have been swapping my barrels around a bit. It's really easy with a Savage, and it's far more involved than it would be if I used a shouldered barrel instead of the Savage nut. But since I use the barrels on more than one action, the nut is better for me.

However, I have witnessed guys at the range with Larry Racine's system (his shop is only about an hour and a half drive from my house) swapping barrels with nothing more than a crescent wrench or a ratchet and socket. It only took about 3 minutes to do, and that includes putting a thread protector on the barrel that was removed and putting it in the rifle case and removing the other from the case and removing the thread protector. It's literally just as fast as threading in a bolt that's an inch long.

I have also witnessed guys simply screwing them in hand tight and shooting. And one guy used one of the rubber strap wrenches to remove and install his barrels. If you have never seen a rubber strap wrench, it's simply a handle with a rubber strap that you wrap around what ever you are trying to turn and then run it back into a spot on the handle that holds the strap so it can't pull out. When you turn the handle, it tightens the strap around the barrel a bit and loosens or tightens it.

strap wrench:http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-54001-4-Inch-Wrench/dp/B0009DUW60/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1285641895&sr=1-2

Switch barrels are very easy to change, and only take a minute or two if they are set up properly, though some like to torque them to spec, which is fine as well.

 

[camac]

My switch barrel is a simple process and takes about 5 minutes to complete (much faster with shoulder than savage nut system which requires scope being taken off). I made a rear action entry wrench and tighten to 65 ft lbs like Frank but have a vice on the back of my ute (pickup). Three action screws are removed, Scope stays on. Barrel goes in vice with wood barrel blocks and action wrench in action. Barrel is off in 2 minutes flat. Next the new barrel goes on and is tightened to 65 ft lbs. I have a field gauge to check headspace. Three action screws back in and torqued down. Always seems to return to a nice zero. Interestingly my 300m zero for 6mmBR and 6.5*284 on last barrel set I made are the same (except for 1 minute of wind). - Beautiful. Trick on headspace is to tighten to same torque setting every time. Cam

 

[camac]

Kenny, You must have a bit of clearance under the scope to get the nut spanner on. I had to remove stock and scope to get mine off.

 

[Kenny474]

Camac, I do probably have more clearance than most. I really hadn't considered that most probably run the scope closer to the barrel than I do. So yes, in most cases you likely will need to remove the scope. I run mine a bit high so I can keep my cheek off the stock and free-recoil and only contact the trigger and trigger guard. And my other rifles have rather small objectives, so I can just get the spanner to slip by. I guess I should have thought a bit more, my bad.

And you need to remove the action anyway to get the spanner on in the first place. Sometimes my brain fails to launch.

 

[Scott Harris]

On a Remington 700 type action with a recoil lug, you will need:
1. barrel vise
2. action wrench
3. Torque wrench
4. Pinned recoil lug
5. Anti-seize compound for the threads.

I torque the barrel to about 25 ft-lbs and it works great.

 

[DOGCAPPER]

I have Borden Rimrock with 5 barrels...2PPC..2 6BR...1 6x284....The PPC are within 2" at 100..The 6BR are 3" low 2" right from the PPC zero...The 6x284 is way off but it was made for a RFD action and modified to fit it is 6" low and 4" right...I dont use go guage after initial set up...Tighten to moderate 60_70 flb...Use Never Seize....
LT

 

[fdshuster]

scotharr: On the recomendation of my 'smith I'm using the Kleinendorst recoil lug tool for my Rem. 700's, so none of the lugs are pinned. My 'scopes are all monted with Weaver bases, Burris Signature Zee rings, that always remain on the scope. Remove the 2 cross-bolt ring mount screws, slide the 'scope off, (zero never changes), and remove the receiver/barrel from the stock. I can easily do dumb things that could result in 'scope or stock damage, so do prefer to take the extra time to dis-assemble the rifle, the reason for the 35 minute change time. Always change barrels using my heavy workbench, and have no need for changes in the field.

 

[Taildrag15X]

I think that is why the poster was referred to Larry's system in the first place.......it is a TRUE switch barrel.

 

[Kenny474]

I agree 100% that the factory Savage system is not a true switch barrel. It does however allow the average guy to swap barrels quickly and with relative ease and without the need for a smith to do any special set-up or the like, and it only requires a few simple tools to accomplish. So it does add some versatility to a rifle that the average shooter would not have with a traditional shouldered barrel.

 

[camac]

I built my savage shouldered system with that intention of action staying in stock. And did change the barrels a few times like that, But with the floating recoil lug I was never confident it was bedding properly so gave up and redid the action screws (it is a one minute job). If you want to follow the guys advice above and have a true switch barrel then I would pick an action with a fixed reoil lug. But in my mind a "true" switch barrel is something you can change quickly (between ranges) and confidently return to a repeatable zero so that you can switch if the wind comes up or you go to a longer range etc - however it is done.

 

[hogan]

There is little reason to torque the hell out of your barrel if running a switch setup.

On a Rem 700 the ticket to easy swaps is to have the recoil lug pinned to the receiver. Hollands lug has a hole for just that purpose. Pin the lug and you are in the same league as a Sako or Winchester 70.

You can also swap bolts and go to any dimension reasonable to your receiver. The finest production tactical rifle is also the world's best for switchbarreling; the Sako TRG-42. The 42 can go from Super-magnum bolt face to .473, with .535" in between. Sako will sell you the bolt bodies and the .300win magazine is easily adaptable to the .284 case variants as well as the 6.5x55 with its .480 diameter. Might need to work it a bit to use .30-06 or .22-250 variants.

As long as you're going custom, just be sure you have minimum oal chambers on all your new barrels. With precisely ground receiver face and barrel shoulder your barrel will lock solidly with just hand torque.

No reason to go heavy on the torque. Only hassle with a Sako is removing the factory barrel. Have done a few, just have to rosin the barrel and use a big hammer on your action wrench...

If considering a super-mag ctg ever, be sure to buy a .338LM TRG42 as your starter gun, because the bolt bodies for the .585" boltface are about $100 more and often out of stock. Check with Beretta USA for parts, or try Brownells.

Winchester 70, Tikka M595/695 and any other Sako makes a superb switchgun. An MT Guns Tikka Master Sporter would really be a great way to get your feet wet.

Have fun!

 

[Hammer]

.

Met Bob Cline, a diesel mechanic from Missouri, in a Wyoming prairie dog town a few years back.

Cline has a method of switching Savage barrels out in the PD town without

• special tools,
• modification to the action, barrel, or barrel nut, and
• removing the scope or stock.

Cline's method takes all of maybe two minutes to swap barrels and be shooting again.

He can switch from his 204 Ruger barrel to his 223AI barrel and then to a 222 Rem barrel. Similarly with his 308 bolt face guns.

Once he swaps barrels, using his records he can click in "up 3 left 1" adjustment on his scope for the new barrel/cartridge and be dead on for the next prairie dog without any need for a sighter. Saw him do it.

Have discussed Bob Cline's method with Bob Greenleaf, senior engineer with Savage for thirty years and now retired. Greenleaf not only saw no problems with it. Greenleaf uses a similar method himself.

Y'all might want to check out Cline's method.

Cline posts on some forums as skypilotbc .



I have complete Savage bolt assemblies for 223, 308, PPC, and H&H bolt face sizes for use on a single Savage action. Using Cline’s method I can switch from my 14 Walker to my 470 Capstick in the field for those charging bull prairie dogs when I see them coming from 500 yards. Do not bother switching out the box magazines so therefore it is a single-shot in this application.

.

 

[Taildrag15X]

Didn't Bob hunt with Mike Russell, think I heard about that system from him........