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Teamed up my reloading scales

After using my new FX120i scale for a couple of weeks I found that as accurate as it is it's slower than bejeezus making rounds. Well after realizing that the precise accuracy that you can achieve from it is really not all that important unless your a long range competition shooter or you just want perfect rounds. I dug my RCBS Chargemaster lite back out and put it back into service along with the FX120i. I made up some rounds last night loading 25.5gr of 8208XBR and measured every charge on the FX120. I found that the Chargemaster really does a good job but mine if running .1 over so actually they are coming in at around 25.64 so I changed the Chargemaster to throw 25.4 and the average now is 25.49 to 25.53. I can easily tune them with my "bendy straw" if any are a little higher or lower but the spread is really good. However I'm betting it will be a little worse with a heavy grain powder like 4064.
 
Run the FX120i with an Autotrickler and you you can fill one about ever 20 seconds with pretty much any powder. I've used mine with H4895, Varget and N150. One case in 10 I may have to use the tweezers to add or remove a kernel to be spot on my target.

With prepped brass I fill and seat bullets in a tray of 50 cases in about 25 minutes.
 
After using my new FX120i scale for a couple of weeks I found that as accurate as it is it's slower than bejeezus making rounds. Well after realizing that the precise accuracy that you can achieve from it is really not all that important unless your a long range competition shooter or you just want perfect rounds. I dug my RCBS Chargemaster lite back out and put it back into service along with the FX120i. I made up some rounds last night loading 25.5gr of 8208XBR and measured every charge on the FX120. I found that the Chargemaster really does a good job but mine if running .1 over so actually they are coming in at around 25.64 so I changed the Chargemaster to throw 25.4 and the average now is 25.49 to 25.53. I can easily tune them with my "bendy straw" if any are a little higher or lower but the spread is really good. However I'm betting it will be a little worse with a heavy grain powder like 4064.
That is so 2015.

When I got my Autotrickler, I retired my CM1500 after 7 years of faithful service. Now with the Autothrow and the V3 version, the CM is retired for good.
 
Yeh but,... that's another $500 on top of $600 making the "cost for gain" not really worth it for the average shooter that only goes to competition sometimes. Looking back now that I know what I know I should not have spent the money for the FX120 and bought my long range scope I wanted.
 
Yeh but,... that's another $500 on top of $600 making the "cost for gain" not really worth it for the average shooter that only goes to competition sometimes. Looking back now that I know what I know I should not have spent the money for the FX120 and bought my long range scope I wanted.
I understand what you are saying, but it's the wrong attitude. :)

This site is all about spending money to get the latest and greatest. :D

That said, I'm just teasing you. The setup you described is something I used for years. The CM did a great job and yes, I was setting it to throw 0.1 gr short of my target weight and then just completing it on the A&D. I used that Omega powder trickler and I would actually just use a pair of plastic tweezers to push the required number of Varget kernels into the pan from the Omega's arm.

It's all good. But it's so much faster and easier (and less prone to fumbling pans) with the AT-AT.

Speaking of which, I think Adam picked the wrong name for the AutoThrow. It should have been called the AutoDump. This way, it would be the AD-AT instead of the AT-AT and not sound so Star Wars-ish.

at-at.jpg
 
Unless you are shooting shotgun patterns very little in this game results in "leaps and bounds better". Some things we do that probably aren't worth it for the game we choose play but it makes us feel more confident, while others may make a real difference in scores. In the end it is up to the individual to decide what is worth it and what isn't.

In most cases we get incremental improvement, and some of those increments are probably only really measurable over days of shooting (if we took the time to measure).
 
Never mentioned selling?? Just having a senior moment to reflect on buyers remorse I guess. I suppose I was expecting leaps and bounds better groups from better rounds made using the FX120.
Check your text messages
 
Never mentioned selling?? Just having a senior moment to reflect on buyers remorse I guess. I suppose I was expecting leaps and bounds better groups from better rounds made using the FX120.
Your gonna need that scale for long range load development (1k) is where it will pay dividends
 
Never mentioned selling?? Just having a senior moment to reflect on buyers remorse I guess. I suppose I was expecting leaps and bounds better groups from better rounds made using the FX120.
As long as you’re leaping and bounding 1000y to the target you should see it on target. For short range it’s only going to make you enjoy your chronograph numbers.
 
Your gonna need that scale for long range load development (1k) is where it will pay dividends

For me, the cost does not make sense. The electronic version takes 15-20 seconds to throw a charge. Great, now one has to pick it up and fill the case, then pick up a bullet and seat it. I can manually throw, measure, trickle-to-the-kernal AND seat a bullet in 27 seconds on average. If it does not save me time, it is not worth it. Apologies folks but the cost of the two units buys me barrels and bullets.
 
For me, the cost does not make sense. The electronic version takes 15-20 seconds to throw a charge. Great, now one has to pick it up and fill the case, then pick up a bullet and seat it. I can manually throw, measure, trickle-to-the-kernal AND seat a bullet in 27 seconds on average. If it does not save me time, it is not worth it. Apologies folks but the cost of the two units buys me barrels and bullets.
What powder thrower or who’s are you using?
 

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