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stoney point/hornady tool threads

  • Thread starter Thread starter stool
  • Start date Start date

stool

need to make some cases for setting seating depth...
is the thread on the stoney point tool 5/16-36 ???
lost mine in a fire..but i think that is right..
help
 
Steve3 said:
Do I need a drill press to do this.

I've done it with a drill press but I found it very time consuming to align everything perfectly verticle and, although the drill press handles the initial hole under power, the chuck needs to be turned by hand to do the threading.
So I stopped trying to make the drill press do the job and use my mini-lathe. Makes 'em perfect every time.
 
my lathe is not installed..so i will drill in the press, and move to the lathe to tap....no power..just hand power...
and it would be a taper, not a plug tap.....start with the taper and for thru holes it works just fine....
 
When I needed a "special case" for my Hornady gauge I just drilled out a sized case, making the hole size so it just slipped over the threads of the tool. A little wax on the gauge threads, a really small amount of J-B Weld on the inside of the rough hole, installing the case/epoxy on the tool body. After it cured I had my own "specially prepared case". Works great.
 
amlevin said:
... drilled out a sized case, making the hole size so it just slipped over the threads of the tool. ... on the gauge threads, a really small amount of J-B Weld on the inside of the rough hole, installing the case/epoxy on the tool body. After it cured I had my own "specially prepared case". Works great.

Never heard of doing that - I'm a big fan of create solutions. That's genius ...
 
Lapua40X said:
Steve3 said:
Do I need a drill press to do this.

I've done it with a drill press but I found it very time consuming to align everything perfectly verticle and, although the drill press handles the initial hole under power, the chuck needs to be turned by hand to do the threading.
So I stopped trying to make the drill press do the job and use my mini-lathe. Makes 'em perfect every time.

I don't want to sound like a dumb dumb here but, wouldn't the case align correctly if the hole was perfectly center or not? Your measurement will be from the base of the case regardless right?

Ray
 
ray...
on some cases there is not a lot of material to work with..the middle is much better...
perfect..no, but you do need to be close....go try a 223 case and you will see.

raythemanroe said:
Lapua40X said:
Steve3 said:
Do I need a drill press to do this.

I've done it with a drill press but I found it very time consuming to align everything perfectly verticle and, although the drill press handles the initial hole under power, the chuck needs to be turned by hand to do the threading.
So I stopped trying to make the drill press do the job and use my mini-lathe. Makes 'em perfect every time.

I don't want to sound like a dumb dumb here but, wouldn't the case align correctly if the hole was perfectly center or not? Your measurement will be from the base of the case regardless right?

Ray
 
raythemanroe said:
Lapua40X said:
Steve3 said:
Do I need a drill press to do this.

I've done it with a drill press but I found it very time consuming to align everything perfectly verticle and, although the drill press handles the initial hole under power, the chuck needs to be turned by hand to do the threading.
So I stopped trying to make the drill press do the job and use my mini-lathe. Makes 'em perfect every time.

I don't want to sound like a dumb dumb here but, wouldn't the case align correctly if the hole was perfectly center or not? Your measurement will be from the base of the case regardless right?

Ray

When drilling my case I found that the drill wanted to follow the primer pocket so I wasn't too worried about being far enough off-center to matter. The case centers in the chamber and when you remove it you just don't want the case to move on the tool in any manner that would disturb the bullet. The measurement is still from the case head to bullet ogive or tip.

BTW, I grew up on a farm and stuff like this was pro-forma for us. Beer can shims to keep bearings in pump housings. An electric motor; an old ford distributor, battery and coil; a pair of pulleys to reduce the speed to a "crawl" and "presto", an electric fence charger that worked until the new one came in the mail from Sears. If the electricity was out, just run a hose from the milking machine vacuum manifold to the vacuum port on the farm truck. Could run at least one milking machine at a time and make 40 cows happier without wearing out the hands. It was fun back then.
 

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