Stock Refinishing Question - Stain & Checkering

[jepp2]

Hopefully this is the best place to post this.

Background, I have refinished several stock stripping the factory finish and using Arrow Wood Finish. One one Annie stock a lot of the stock color was in the factory finish, so the stock was very light after I stripped it. I was tempted to stain it, but didn't want to risk a bad result. So I added some Arrow Wood Finish and a small amount of stain to a dropper bottle. It darkened the stock slightly, but not as much as I wanted.

Current, I have stripped the stock on a CZ 457 American. Nothing special. I am opening the barrel channel for a different profile barrel. So I tested my stain in that area and liked the result.

MY QUESTION - How do I apply stain to the checkered areas of the stock and not have it come out darker? Due to the wood being more open and I can't wipe it off after staining as I do on the un-checkered portions of stock?

Without input from someone else, I would probably just stain the smooth portions of the stock, and finish with Arrow Wood Finish as normal. I only apply a single coat of Arrow to the checkered portions using a brush, so I would add some stain to the Arrow when I do the checkering. But right now I am at the bottom of learning curve and hope to benefit from those with much more experience how to deal with this.

Here is the test patch I did.

 

[Bc'z]

Mask it off

 

[jepp2]

Mask it off

So just don't stain it?

 

[pdhntr]

...MY QUESTION - How do I apply stain to the checkered areas of the stock and not have it come out darker? Due to the wood being more open and I can't wipe it off after staining as I do on the un-checkered portions of stock?...

Yes, the problem is the "raw" wood and the increased surface area of the checkering will want to soak up more stain and look darker.

Apply a small amount of your Arrow Oil to the checkering and let it dry. This will tend to keep the wood from soaking up too much stain. After it is dry, then go over the entire stock with your stain/oil mixture.

Also, if you use an old toothbrush CORRECTLY you can control the amount of stain/oil mixture. By wiping most of the mixture off the brush before applying, you can "work in" the correct amount to the checkering.

However, you have to ask yourself if you are staining the wood surrounding the checkering, and your worried about the checkering coming out darker, then maybe Bc's method would work best. In other words, don't stain the checkering.

Jim

 

[jepp2]

Bc's method would work best. In other words, don't stain the checkering.

I'm still waiting for the stock to completely dry (had to use Citristrip to get the factory stuff off). Right now, the stock is still quite a bit darker than the barrel channel where I removed material for the barrel. If it stays darker, I might avoid the staining step. Thanks for the suggestion, I like it if I do stain.

 

[Twdmar]

If you dye the checkering, because of the exposed end grain, it will suck up dye or stain far more than the rest of the stock.
I would recommend using something to seal it that can be thinned. It will very likely make the checkering darker no matter what you do(think about how wood gets darker if you wipe water on it).
When you refinish the rest of the stock, mask off the checkering. Once it's all dry, mask off the area around the checkering. Use an old toothbrush to apply just a tiny bit of finish. Again, I would not add any color and try to find something that is clear. Water based poly may work, but be careful of it raising the grain. Lacquer might be a good choice too. Test a tiny area if possible. When you put it on, scrub it on and off to limit the amount of finish in the checkering.
Another option is to leave it alone or put a paste wax on and let it dry. Once it's dry, use a toothbrush and scrub out the excess. Some waxes dry nice and hard and are not slippery.

 

[Bc'z]

So just don't stain it?

Or have the checkering re-cut after stain

 

[Twdmar]

Or have the checkering re-cut after stain

That's easier said than done.

 

[jepp2]

That's easier said than done.

1. I don't have the proper tools
2. I don't have the technique
3. I do have enough sense I will turn it into a Bubba job if I try.