Stock narrowing ?

[Wolfdog91]

Anything have experience narrowing up a stock ? Looking at getting a Boyds pro varmit for my Mossberg patriot .243 since I love the shape and generally like the one on my 30-06. Deal is this will be carried around more for hunting and the thick forearm makes lugging my other abit uncomfortable. Also wouldn't mind the grip bing a little smaller and possibly deeper. So was considering getting this one and reshaping it a bit. Figured all I'd need is a few rasps and some sand paper but other then an air rifle stock or two never really don't this so any advice? Mainly on keeping everything even ?
Wanted to get an MTD field stock but they don't seem to want to release it for the patriot so

 

[D-4297]

Had to do a lot of finish work on a stock several years ago ; and for all the shaping work , I chose a sander that has a Triangle shaped head on it , and some different grades of sandpaper stick-ons . 100 150 200 400 , and then did the finish sanding by hand . The sander did a nice job of shaping and reducing the areas I wanted changed , but , you'll want to be cautious about how much is coming off , and how fast .

 

[scasa]

If that's a laminated stock I doubt a rasp will have much effect on it. those laminated stocks are pretty hard . They usually require serious power tools.

 

[shortgrass]

You want a "pattern makers file" for shaping, and double cut files. The 'patter maker' is like fine tooth rasp. A regular wood rasp is much too coarse for stock work. A Nicholson #49 'pattern maker' will do for a novice for a 1 time job.

 

[joshb]

Buy a Dewalt palm sander and get some 80 grit, 120, 220, etc. It will serve you well. I have a couple that are 20 years old and still run fine.

 

[jdh47]

60-80 grit sandpaper glued to a block of wood will keep it straight and finish up with the palm sander and fine sandpaper. The easiest option is to call them and see what they have to offer that might work instead of having to redo the stock.

 

[ben-o]

I reshaped a Boyd’s walnut (non- laminated) stock recently. Mine had a large hollow recess in the fore end, which might limit how much you can take off there. I’d recommended ordering it unfinished and un-checkered if you go that route. I used a rasp to start then did the final shaping with 60 grit paper and a sanding block.

 

[TaperPin]

I have somewhat limited depth perception, so I’ve always struggled when shaping 3D objects. I’m also a wood worker by trade and have some experience grinding on laminate stocks. Looking at what shapes and distinct lines you would like to retain, it helps me a lot to run a tape line down those lines, and make templates of the curve at different spots. I found shapes I wanted to keep were changing to the point there wasn’t enough wood to fix. Sharp lines soften or move unevenly.

As you get closer to the rough shape and need to even out the surface, aluminum strips, say 1/8” x 3/4”, can be flexed to follow long gentle curves and simply rubbing it on the wood marks high points with aluminum residue. Sanding off any oxide layer from the strip makes marking much easier. Once the shape is right and the surface is evened out, sanding (especially hand sanding with blocks) can finish it off.

Sharp fresh sandpaper on a flexible block is needed or the shape will follow the harder and softer layers of the laminate. There are times sandpaper can be used within an inch of its life, but this isn’t one.

Sounds like fun! That’s a nice stock design.