stock inlet problem at GRS bifost

[bmj71371]

Please lend me your wisdom.

This past August, I requested Pacific Tool and Gauge to machine an M5 inlet into a GRS resin stock (a fitting service for the bottom metal).



Yesterday, the item finally arrived. Upon inspection, I discovered it was a botched piece of junk.



When the bottom metal was installed, it was mounted at an angle, and the action screw shaft isn't protruding.

It's tilted about 1mm to the left and right.

Can this stock be fixed and used? I've attached photos. Please share your thoughts.

 

[Twdmar]

It could be salvageable but it might need to be bedded. Hard to tell without a view of the bottom.

 

[bmj71371]

It could be salvageable but it might need to be bedded. Hard to tell without a view of the bottom.

The stock has a segmented structure. Since some sections are hollow, I think the bedding material will flow out and not work properly.

 

[Sniperhandle]

They just bought a stock and and inletting job.

 

[LVLAaron]

That is absolute garbage and they owe you a refund and a new stock. No two ways about it.

 

[LVLAaron]

I could have done a better job with my 25 year old dremel tool.

 

[Kurz]

While your complaint is justified you should be directing it to Dave Kiff and the folks at Pacific Tool and Gauge, not a public forum.

 

[LVLAaron]

Normally I'd agree, but PTG has done so many disservices to it's customers, there's a point where it needs to be called out.

 

[tobnpr]

Total bull****.
If I'd waited 3-4 months for THAT, I'd be livid.
Is the "low" side or the "high" side of the inlet at the correct elevation? If the low side is correct, the high side could be milled down to make it correct/eliminate the cant (IF I'm looking at the photo correctly).
If it's the opposite case, you could bed the low side to bring it up. Voids would be filled with clay/putty typical for bedding jobs.

Milling polymer stocks results in the burrs you see- but not to debur/clean-up the edges is just plain sloppiness with no concern for quality.

I'd call Kiff/email photos and see if he does the right thing- replace the stock and inlet it correctly.
I wouldn't hold my breath.

If you aren't able to rectify, I'll do it for you n/c if you'd like to send it to me.

 

[LVLAaron]

@tobnpr good man. I was going to volunteer.

I've had a hard week, and I'm mad for OP. If I ever botched someones equipment... I would just fix it / make it right / pay fully / etc - I'd go out of my way to correct my mistake, and probably offer additional free work. Shit happens but sending that stock back to a customer is an insult.

 

[bmj71371]

Total bull****.
If I'd waited 3-4 months for THAT, I'd be livid.
Is the "low" side or the "high" side of the inlet at the correct elevation? If the low side is correct, the high side could be milled down to make it correct/eliminate the cant (IF I'm looking at the photo correctly).
If it's the opposite case, you could bed the low side to bring it up. Voids would be filled with clay/putty typical for bedding jobs.

Milling polymer stocks results in the burrs you see- but not to debur/clean-up the edges is just plain sloppiness with no concern for quality.

I'd call Kiff/email photos and see if he does the right thing- replace the stock and inlet it correctly.
I wouldn't hold my breath.

If you aren't able to rectify, I'll do it for you n/c if you'd like to send it to me.

Thank you for your kind offer.

Unfortunately, I live in Japan.

Importing it legally is quite a hassle.


I complained to PTG,

but I probably won't get a reply.



So I'm thinking of ways to make it usable for machining. How about filling the gaps in the stock with a kneadable epoxy putty, then bedding it with shims and JB Weld?

I think it might be a bit better.

There was also a customs incident with this shipment, so that's another problem.

 

[LVLAaron]

For what it's worth, I love "reworking" stocks. You can certainly solve all of those problems. It might take a long time because you need to fill 1 section at a time and wait for glue to dry. Epoxy putty is a great filler. it's hard as nails.

 

[tobnpr]

Epoxy bedding polymers is a bit different than wood/aluminum/fiberglass/carbon fiber...
Epoxies (at least, all that I'm familiar with) cannot achieve a suitably strong chemical bond to polymers- so you need to create a solid, mechanical bond to make up for it.
Because of mold release agents used in the manufacturing process, degreasing is a critical first step.
Polymers used for rifle stocks should be chemical resistant (not familiar with your specific stock). Test a small inconspicuous area with brake cleaner or acetone to see if it's compatible. If not, go with a "safe" degreaser like Simple Green (or Japanese equivalent )

After degreasing, sand the areas to be bedded/filled. Don't just scuff it- SAND IT- really rough up the surface. Then, take a drill or rotary tool and drill a bunch of holes at reverse angles (something around 1/8" or so, diameter not critical) opposite to the direction the epoxy could separate from the stock. IOW- horizontal surfaces like the receiver sides, drill the holes angled down, towards the front and back. By doing this, and using a relatively low viscosity epoxy- no putties in this particular application- so that it will flow into the divots you drilled. With the holes drilled at appropriate angles, it's impossible for the epoxy to separate under normal conditions.

 

[bmj71371]

Epoxy bedding polymers is a bit different than wood/aluminum/fiberglass/carbon fiber...
Epoxies (at least, all that I'm familiar with) cannot achieve a suitably strong chemical bond to polymers- so you need to create a solid, mechanical bond to make up for it.
Because of mold release agents used in the manufacturing process, degreasing is a critical first step.
Polymers used for rifle stocks should be chemical resistant (not familiar with your specific stock). Test a small inconspicuous area with brake cleaner or acetone to see if it's compatible. If not, go with a "safe" degreaser like Simple Green (or Japanese equivalent )

After degreasing, sand the areas to be bedded/filled. Don't just scuff it- SAND IT- really rough up the surface. Then, take a drill or rotary tool and drill a bunch of holes at reverse angles (something around 1/8" or so, diameter not critical) opposite to the direction the epoxy could separate from the stock. IOW- horizontal surfaces like the receiver sides, drill the holes angled down, towards the front and back. By doing this, and using a relatively low viscosity epoxy- no putties in this particular application- so that it will flow into the divots you drilled. With the holes drilled at appropriate angles, it's impossible for the epoxy to separate under normal conditions.

Using the Dremel made it a bit better. I'll fix the excessive bevel with bedding.

Then I'll hand it off to the gunsmith.



If I'd known it would turn out like this, I should've looked for a different magazine instead of insisting on the AICS one. It's just a waste of money.

 

[Twdmar]

View attachment 1714102View attachment 1714103
Using the Dremel made it a bit better. I'll fix the excessive bevel with bedding.

Then I'll hand it off to the gunsmith.



If I'd known it would turn out like this, I should've looked for a different magazine instead of insisting on the AICS one. It's just a waste of money.

This looks better. If the top of the magazine is parallel with the top of the stock you're in good shape.
Dam up the voids with plumbers putty, play doh, Styrofoam or whatever and bed the bottom metal so it doesn't flop around.
I think you'll be fine but that should never have been shipped. I also agree that this probably should be out there. Ptg can't be unaware that they are fairly well known for significant poor quality control and they certainly don't need anyone white knighting for them.

 

[Kevin1990]

While your complaint is justified you should be directing it to Dave Kiff and the folks at Pacific Tool and Gauge, not a public forum.

Is he giving you a discount for saying this? Lol

 

[DLT]

I could have done a better job with my 25 year old dremel tool.

I could have with a Case XX