Stock fill/finish help

[djporter]

I’m going to be working on a wood laminated stock blank. What’s the best stuff for a fill/finish? I will be applying it by fingers or by wiping. Going for a gloss finish. Any help will be appreciated.

 

[msalm]

I soak the stock down with thinned finish letting it take as much as it will soak in, wipe down and let dry a few days. After that’s dry, I wet sand with the finish (thinned a little less than the penetrating finish) and work up a ‘mud’, leaving that on the stock. That will usually fill the pores pretty quick, after that dries wet sand just down to the wood and wipe off. At that point the grain should be filled and start your build up/sheen layers.

 

[djporter]

Thank you, but, what are brand of fill/finish are you using?

 

[Iowa Fox]

Laurel Mountain Permalyn is what you are looking for use on laminate. I use the sealer then the finish.

 

[joshb]

There is a problem when using the “wet sand” process with laminates. The different colors mix and dull the contrasting colors. I used epoxy on the last one I did but that’s a little difficult for most guys. I would use a hard clear finish and sand between coats.

 

[msalm]

I use the pro custom finish sold by Brownell’s. Have also used Seafin sealer and their finish with good results.

 

[msalm]

There is a problem when using the “wet sand” process with laminates. The different colors mix and dull the contrasting colors. I used epoxy on the last one I did but that’s a little difficult for most guys. I would use a hard clear finish and sand between coats.

Josh, could that be alleviated by sanding down to the base and wiping clean? Basically just the pores will retain the ‘mud’. Been awhile since I messed with laminates.

 

[DGP4]

Do not sand it. Use a lot of light coats of Tru-Oil or similar wipe on finish.

 

[joshb]

Josh, could that be alleviated by sanding down to the base and wiping clean? Basically just the pores will retain the ‘mud’. Been awhile since I messed with laminates.

It would really depend on the colors. Grey/green probably wouldn’t be noticed. My last one was Bumblebee. Bright yellow and black. I had a devil of a time getting the black out of the yellow pores. Then, some of the black wasn’t black enough so I stained it with the analine dye. Let it dry and brushed on the epoxy. The epoxy lifted the dye and it spread over the yellow. A true disaster but a learning experience.

 

[mudduck]

If your wanting high gloss take to an auto body shop a have them clear it.

 

[Walt Krafft]

I took an old rotisserie and set it up to hold a stock. The rotation let me spray or brush with spar varnish or other finishes without getting runs or drips.

 

[Bc'z]

I took an old rotisserie and set it up to hold a stock. The rotation let me spray or brush with spar varnish or other finishes without getting runs or drips.

Last couple you stuffed in a box with some postage.

It would really depend on the colors. Grey/green probably wouldn’t be noticed. My last one was Bumblebee. Bright yellow and black. I had a devil of a time getting the black out of the yellow pores. Then, some of the black wasn’t black enough so I stained it with the analine dye. Let it dry and brushed on the epoxy. The epoxy lifted the dye and it spread over the yellow. A true disaster but a learning experience.

And that my friend is why PAIN is in paint.
Your absolutely right about the laminate colors getting muddled with sanding. After I thoroughly blow a laminate down and clean it with naptha, my rags are covered in whatever color it happens to be.

 

[Kittitas George]

Steam will sometimes lift the grain so less fill is needed. A rag and a 'clothes iron' will do it. Many, many coats of finish, don't be in a hurry.