Sticky / Gummy chamber ?

[DLT]

Ah ha! I do not trust Rem Oil. It used to be a very good, very specific (if light) oil, not unlike trusting 3-in-1. It is for a decade or more now, and esp for the aerosol, a contract item with a Rem Oil label, that varies periodically as they find someone to make it cheaper. People who know oils like for a living have done some chemical analysis and its full of random junk like indeed waxes that look good on surfaces but build up. Relegate it to lawn mower repair.

Hoppes Lubricating Oil /appears/ to still be a legit product. A bit light for my tastes, but probably a reasonable enough thing. Use that since you have it.

What my suggestion involved was removing /every bit/ of oil, grease, wax, etc from the action, bore, and chamber. The usual method is generally: solvent > degreaser. In the old days we'd use kerosene as the solvent, but mineral spirits is a bit safer. You can use either.

Use that as the cleaner with the above suggestions. Both normal cleaning cycle, and add in a chamber brush specifically. You'll want something that rotates in the chamber to be sure you are scrubbing the whole chamber and not leaving anything on the shoulder, assure no ring build up on the lede. Usually chamber brushes are bronze, and this is fine. Have heard of people who shoot thousands of rounds of .22 a year and chamber brush every 50 with no ill effects.

(Agree, ideally you get a borescope, the Teslong is awful nice and cheap, to inspect all this work as well as diagnose but otherwise just be very scrupulous).

Anyway, then normal cleaning with rags or whatever for the action, patches for the bore, with denatured alcohol to remove the mineral spirits. Then run a single patch of oil down the bore, wipe down the rest of the works (esp any in the white parts!) and the next day wipe down with dry patch/cloth, reassemble.

Yeah, that's involved, lots of people ignore me and shortcut things with no ill effects. You can likely just do the chamber clean with an oil change and it will also work.

Thank ye. I got a pile of different solvents and a pile of different oils. It’s just what I grabbed that go round. So let me get this straight. You strip the wax, gunk, oil, grease with mineral spirits out of the chamber and bore. Then do you use solvents to clean the bore or just use the mineral spirits ? Then you use denatured alcohol on patches to get the mineral spirits out. Is that correct ? Followed by a patch of oil. What oils do you recommend ? I probably have em on hand

 

[shoobe01]

Thank ye. I got a pile of different solvents and a pile of different oils. It’s just what I grabbed that go round. So let me get this straight. You strip the wax, gunk, oil, grease with mineral spirits out of the chamber and bore. Then do you use solvents to clean the bore or just use the mineral spirits ? Then you use denatured alcohol on patches to get the mineral spirits out. Is that correct ? Followed by a patch of oil. What oils do you recommend ? I probably have em on hand

Yes, that's what I am saying.

I'd clean with the mineral spirits as the concern is there's some odd gumminess, so we need that sort of stuff to dissolve whatever is keeping the lead, wax, and carbon doom in there. Only this one time. Ideally, the good oil base and regular cleaning practices keep it from happening again.

Ideally Could just be a tight chamber and gooey ammo after all but it's a good start to eliminate any worries and second guessing.

(Note, you don't have to go out of your way to buy new stuff. If no mineral spirits, use anything that meets the need and won't kill you when even slightly misued and is relatively pure itself. Gasoline is horribly dangerous but also full of stupid additives so was always a dumb cleaning agent though many did for many years.)

 

[JimSC]

electrical contact cleaner and non chlorinated carburetor cleaner are residue free cleaners. You can find them at any auto parts store. I keep a can of each in my rifle room. Both are great for cleaning bolts and actions. A squirt of either on a bore mop will cure your problem

 

[dutch14]

I like the idea of a bore scope. Mine is a Lyman.

 

[dutch14]

You might also try cleaning out the extractor recess in the breach end of the barrel. Tooth picks work well for this.

 

[WileyG]

I have found that mixing ammo brands really confuses my CZ 457s and causes a bit of a mess. The different lubes that one manufacturer uses vs another has shown itself to be a problem. In one range session I went from Lapua to Eley without swabbing the bore and got an almost shotgun pattern at 50 yards. When I got home and put the bore scope down the barrel, the chamber and throat were particularly nasty. I'me almost exclusively shooting SK ammo these days and loving it.

 

[gaboy]

Pushing a couple dry patches first, before any kind of wet patches will greatly reduce the "MUD" that solvents create. Then , 3,4,5 wet patches. Then dry patches till they come out clean. Then, one lightly oiled patch to finish. After pushing 5 or 6 dry patches, if they are still streaked with lead, you'll need to scrub the barrel with a bronze brush and good quality solvent. Hoppe's #9 has been around for decades for a reason.
If you're saying that your receiver area is getting muddy after you've shot several rounds, then you're probably leaving too much solvent/oil in receiver. Receiver needs to be dry and bolt needs very, very little touch of grease. NO oil.

Ricky

 

[BlueWater]

A borescope, as others have suggested, ought to show you what the problem is likely to be.

I also suspect, at this point, gumming-up due to shooting and/or cleaning products. IMO, probably cleaning products, given that it gradually got worse and it's of a "sticky" nature.

In my own case, on a Savage 12 6.5CM, I had been using BoreTech Eliminator and BoreTech Cu2 solvents. But I hadn't been using a bore guide. Turns out, residue from the many cleanings eventually got bad enough in the lug recess areas of the action that insertion of cartridges got sticky and extraction of spent cases got downright difficult. Got a good lug recess cleaning combination going, to keep that area clean. Now, no more sticky case problems.

Might well be all you've got, this sort of gradual build-up.

Eliminator Bore Cleaner

Shop for Bore Tech Eliminator bore cleaner online. Our cleaner is the best bore cleaner on the market. We offer our gun bore cleaner in two different sizes to meet your specific needs. Order your Eliminator bore cleaner from Bore Tech today!

www.boretech.com

CU+2 Copper Remover

A powerful copper remover that is 100% barrel safe, odor free and biodegradable. This bore cleaner gets rid of copper fouling quickly. Experience the Bore Tech advantage when you order the Cu+2 Copper Remover Bore Cleaner. Shop our whole selection of gun cleaning chemicals and solvents today for...

www.boretech.com

"Stopper" Series Adjustable Bore Guide for .22 Centerfire - .30 Cal. Short and Long Action

www.proshotproducts.com

Chamber and Lug Recess Cleaning Kits | J Dewey Rods

deweyrods.com

 

[Mark W]

After cleaning a barrel, I always swab out the chamber with plain old isopropyl alcohol. It stops any gummy residue from building up.

 

[CharlieNC]

Rimfire bullets are coated with quite a bit of lube, especially Eley products. Often I wipe the bolt face during shooting sessions as the lube can cause empty brass ejection issues.

 

[DLT]

Is there a way to clean the chamber without getting the throat/rifling gummy ? I have been keeping it swabbed out but end up going back down barrel for fear of solvent or mineral spirits traveled past chamber. Then it’s back to shooting a good bit before my trash starts grouping again