Ah ha! I do not trust Rem Oil. It used to be a very good, very specific (if light) oil, not unlike trusting 3-in-1. It is for a decade or more now, and esp for the aerosol, a contract item with a Rem Oil label, that varies periodically as they find someone to make it cheaper. People who know oils like for a living have done some chemical analysis and its full of random junk like indeed waxes that look good on surfaces but build up. Relegate it to lawn mower repair.
Hoppes Lubricating Oil /appears/ to still be a legit product. A bit light for my tastes, but probably a reasonable enough thing. Use that since you have it.
What my suggestion involved was removing /every bit/ of oil, grease, wax, etc from the action, bore, and chamber. The usual method is generally: solvent > degreaser. In the old days we'd use kerosene as the solvent, but mineral spirits is a bit safer. You can use either.
Use that as the cleaner with the above suggestions. Both normal cleaning cycle, and add in a chamber brush specifically. You'll want something that rotates in the chamber to be sure you are scrubbing the whole chamber and not leaving anything on the shoulder, assure no ring build up on the lede. Usually chamber brushes are bronze, and this is fine. Have heard of people who shoot thousands of rounds of .22 a year and chamber brush every 50 with no ill effects.
(Agree, ideally you get a borescope, the Teslong is awful nice and cheap, to inspect all this work as well as diagnose but otherwise just be very scrupulous).
Anyway, then normal cleaning with rags or whatever for the action, patches for the bore, with denatured alcohol to remove the mineral spirits. Then run a single patch of oil down the bore, wipe down the rest of the works (esp any in the white parts!) and the next day wipe down with dry patch/cloth, reassemble.
Yeah, that's involved, lots of people ignore me and shortcut things with no ill effects. You can likely just do the chamber clean with an oil change and it will also work.
