Sticky Bolt

[Lastgun]

Hello All...I have been hand loading for my.338 Lapua long enough that I am on my fifth loading of same brass.

Goes like this...New brass loaded up warmish for the lapua can be neck sized a few times and then needs FL sizing to avoid sticky bolt after shot...Thing is after 5 loadings even with FL sizing, round will load with zero effort but bolt is sticky after shot...Same load that is not sticky after shot with new or even near new brass but becomes sticky to unload over repeated loadings...Any light you could shed on my dilemma would be appreciated.

The rifle is a tack driving H-S Precision HTR...Load is 250gr Scenars under 89gr of IMR7828 in Lapua brass...Sizing is done with a deluxe set of Redding dies.

Ron

 

[LHSmith]

Should have FL sized every time. The web area has expanded too much. Bolt hard to close= not enough bump/ Bolt sticks on opening= back end not sized enough.
You're one of several threads the last 2 days where Neck sizing has bit them in the rear.

 

[Terry]

This is common with many calibers.
If you can find a die that will resize just the base
you can bring them back.

 

[dmoran]

As stated above, the base/web area is the problem. A smaller die (at the base/web) can fix them, but also full sizing every time greatly improves on that aspect. Brass has memory, as long as its sized the same every time..
Good Luck
Donovan

 

[rayjay]

Before buying new brass I would anneal what you have and see what the results are. IME you can't shoot brass forever unless you anneal on a regular basis. The front end of your cases is as hard as a rock and it needs to be soft. You will probably be amazed at the ease of the bullet seating also.

 

[Lastgun]

Yes...I got in the habit of neck sizing long ago when the inferior rifles I had shot a lot better with neck sized brass...With the higher end precision rifles I have now I find they shoot FL sized rounds as well or even better then when neck sized only...Guess I have to break out that new box of Lapua brass even though these primer pockets are still so tight...Ouch!

Unless I can find this small base full length die you fellas speak of...Any hints as to who manufactures such a die?

Thanks all for your speedy input...I farted around all day yesterday reading and adjusting my only die to try and fix my brass.

Funny I can FL size this brass I have and get it too chamber so nice and yet after the shot it sticks so bad...I did measure the web area of the problem brass and it is stretched a few thou before and after resizing.

 

[Lastgun]

Before buying new brass I would anneal what you have and see what the results are. IME you can't shoot brass forever unless you anneal on a regular basis. The front end of your cases is as hard as a rock and it needs to be soft. You will probably be amazed at the ease of the bullet seating also.

I will try annealing before I break out the new brass but I can't see this brass being work hardened so soon...Thanks for your input.

 

[Patch700]

Using an appropriate mic , measure your once fired brass at the base..
Then visit a competent machinist and ask to have him make you a ring die .001" less than that dimension.

It will essentially be a straight thru hole in the die , use this combined with a shell holder that has been decked .010-.015" and you should be able to keep the back end in check.

Had the 338 L utilized a slightly smaller rim diameter one could simply make a push thru die and not have to modify a shell holder (IE: 284 win cases or anything with a rebated rim)

Good luck.

 

[rayjay]

I will try annealing before I break out the new brass but I can't see this brass being work hardened so soon...Thanks for your input.

When I was shooting my 30BR I could feel the bullet seating effort going way up after 3 firings.

And neck sizing doesn't make up for sloppy chambers it makes up for poor reloading procedures. If you bump your shoulders back .001 to .002" and FL resize every time and anneal every time your loaded cartridge is the same EVERY TIME. There is a thread above about measuring bump.

 

[Terry]

Yes...I got in the habit of neck sizing long ago when the inferior rifles I had shot a lot better with neck sized brass...With the higher end precision rifles I have now I find they shoot FL sized rounds as well or even better then when neck sized only...Guess I have to break out that new box of Lapua brass even though these primer pockets are still so tight...Ouch!

Unless I can find this small base full length die you fellas speak of...Any hints as to who manufactures such a die?

Thanks all for your speedy input...I farted around all day yesterday reading and adjusting my only die to try and fix my brass.

Funny I can FL size this brass I have and get it too chamber so nice and yet after the shot it sticks so bad...I did measure the web area of the problem brass and it is stretched a few thou before and after resizing.

You could make one by cutting the top off a sizing die, and cutting a little off the bottom.
At some point the taper will give you what you need.

 

[rayjay]

If the sizing die was the issue wouldn't he be having trouble chambering the newly FL resized cases ?

 

[Lastgun]

Yes...I got in the habit of neck sizing long ago when the inferior rifles I had shot a lot better with neck sized brass...With the higher end precision rifles I have now I find they shoot FL sized rounds as well or even better then when neck sized only...Guess I have to break out that new box of Lapua brass even though these primer pockets are still so tight...Ouch!

Unless I can find this small base full length die you fellas speak of...Any hints as to who manufactures such a die?

Thanks all for your speedy input...I farted around all day yesterday reading and adjusting my only die to try and fix my brass.

Funny I can FL size this brass I have and get it too chamber so nice and yet after the shot it sticks so bad...I did measure the web area of the problem brass and it is stretched a few thou before and after resizing.

You could make one by cutting the top off a sizing die, and cutting a little off the bottom.
At some point the taper will give you what you need.

Terry that might be just the ticket...Sounds like the easiest way to get a custom die built up here in the middle of no where for sure...With the price of Lapua brass being what it is and the primer pockets still so tight this makes a lot of sense.

Cut the top off the neck, shoulder and body sizing portion of the die and then grind a few thou off the bottom, until the desired web diameter is achieved...Funny I have not run into this web size problem with any of the other calibers I reload for...

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Annealing isnt the answer to every problem anybody has.
A small base die is what you need like was mentioned earlier. No need to trash your very expensive brass unless you want to send them to me. And no more neck sizing- not for any caliber!!

 

[Lastgun]

If the sizing die was the issue wouldn't he be having trouble chambering the newly FL resized cases ?

This is a good point Rayjay...I am wondering the same thing...I will be annealing, resizing and fire the brass before I buy and modify a new die...The annealing, sizing and shooting I can do yet this afternoon after chores...Thanks again for all the tips...Great site you have here!!

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Unless you anneal the base (please dont) then you still havent addressed the sticky bolt. Until you address the base its gonna be groundhog day for that brass

 

[dkhunt14]

Cut the top off the neck, shoulder and body sizing portion of the die and then grind a few thou off the bottom, until the desired web diameter is achieved...Funny I have not run into this web size problem with any of the other calibers I reload for...
[/quote]This usually works for the ones they don't make a small base body die for. Maybe the reason you dis because you didn't run into is because you had a better die to chamber fit. Maybe this Lapua has a tighter chamber or your die is too big. Or maybe they are just too warm of loads. Usually if you shoot them hot the first time or two it makes them bigger. Maybe because you were only necksizing they got big and your die won't bring them back. A ring die or small base die usually fixes this. Matt

 

[dkhunt14]

If the sizing die was the issue wouldn't he be having trouble chambering the newly FL resized cases ?

No its not annealing. Annealing won't help you size the base. When you get bolt click it's the base. Usually a small base or ring die will fix it. Bumping the shoulder is what makes them chamber. Not sizing the back of the case enough is what makes them stick after firing. Matt

 

[rayjay]

If the sizing die was the issue wouldn't he be having trouble chambering the newly FL resized cases ?

This is a good point Rayjay...I am wondering the same thing...I will be annealing, resizing and fire the brass before I buy and modify a new die...The annealing, sizing and shooting I can do yet this afternoon after chores...Thanks again for all the tips...Great site you have here!!

There are some good annealing articles on the main site. You definitely don't want to soften the base. Just the top 1/3 or so. You new Lapua brass has the color you want to duplicate.

 

[mikea5232]

I had this very same problem just a last week with my 22-250ai and lapua brass. I just necksized and after 3 firings i was getting tight cases. I took an old old rcbs 30-06 die and cut all but 4 threads off in the lathe and chamfered the area where i made the cut and polished the inside. It sized just the web area of the brass and works great and it saved me $115 or so for a custom die.

 

[fguffey]

To bad you did not save one of the first cases for comparison. Too bad you did not start by measuring first. Then there is that part about firing a case 5 times 'to fit' then starting over by full length sizing because it no longer fits. I have always asked the question; "How can that work, the case had been fired 5 times?" The case has been fired 5 times, how is it possible to start over?

F. Guffey