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Steel Target Shooting - HELP, opinions please.

Hey gang !

I had a buddy make me some steel targets to shoot with a variety of rifle/handgun calibers i.e. 22lr, 40s&w, .223, 7mm-o8. I was hoping to shoot at distances ranging from 25yds out to 200yds. My plan was to build a target rack and suspend the steel with chain to allow the targets to move rearward upon impact. The targets were made of some scrap "hardened" steel and are 1/2 inch thick.....yep heavy stuff. My question is, do I need to be concerned about ricochet when shooting from the aforesaid distances. From the 25yd range, I'll probably be shooting the 40s&w FMJ and 22lr HP loads. (maybe 38 special as well) I'm sort of bummed out as I have a feeling what type of responses I'm going to receive. I really want a reactionary target that will save me going back & forth to a target whenever I want to shoot. Sounds lazy, however, I'm not as "ambulatory" as I once was. ;) Any opinions or advice is greatly appreciated.
THANKS AGAIN !!!
 
I shoot at steel as close as 10yds. My regular mild steel plate will take up to a .44 mag with out any deforming of the plate. I have used lead and FMJ bullets with out any issue. Most of my shooting is with my .45acp or my .22 pistol. My .454 Casull will ruin a 1/2" mild steel plate and that one gets shot at ar500 plate only.
 
Try welding an attachment to the rear of the target so that it hangs at an angle to aid in deflecting the bullets downward.

Also, cutting some 3" pipe to sleeve the support chains - will keep them from getting shot/breaking.
 
Hanging using a piece of tire also works to hang the steel. Hard to cut, but pretty stout and does not cut like chain when you "miss". My rule is no shots fired under 30 feet for jacketed rounds from pistol. Our group has gone to frangable on steel under 30 feet due to several cuts and "errant rebounds". Why test fate?

Snert
 
28 years ago I was hit by a .38 lead slug that ricocheted off of a suspended steel plate at about 45yds. 3 weeks ago, at the local gunrange/shop, a window was broken from a ricochet at 35yds, again from a steel plate. In both instances, the 'slug' went back from the direction it came, neither was an 'angled' situation. Just my past experience with steel at short ranges. I think the NRA might have some 'specs' as what a proper angle would be to deflect into the ground and not 'from the general direction it came from' in their 'range building' suggestions.
 
I shoot steel a lot. In Canada your not free to use a handgun so we just use rifles.

A while back I picked up some AR-500 steel. I've shot them with everything from shotguns to 22LR to hi-power rifles.

For a test we went out in the winter and plinked away for a few hours with all kinds of different rounds at different distances. (with the white ground its easy to see where the bullets land) Right under the gong a big trench gets dug into the ground. The furthest I've seen any part of a bullet come back towards the shooter is the base of a copper jacketed bullet. It comes back 2 to 3 feet and weights just about nothing. I'm not saying stand at 4 feet and shoot away but most times you are safe shooting close up.

I was disappointed with the AR-500 steel at 100 yards. My girlfriend shot it with her 7-08 and made a little hole maybe 1/8" across and 1/16" deep. Then I shot it with my 204 ruger and I was surprised what that little fast round did to the steel. Her shot is right at the bottom and I did a 3 shot group above with the 204. This was 100 yards.

Picture036.jpg


I hang my gong at 90 degrees. If I hung it leaning back a bit the damage would be less. Here is my set up.

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Now to mild steal. If your shooting soft steel with high power rounds it will make big craters and that is unsafe. I don't like to shoot mild steal with anything that will crater the steel. I shoot it with my 22LR with no problems at all. Just make your targets 1/4" or thicker for 22LR and you won't damage it no matter the distance.

Have fun and BE SAFE. If it feels like a stupid idea it probably is.
 

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