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SS vs carbon steel barrels

I would like to have some input from you guys regarding long-term experience with stainless barrels.

I have made the observation on two Sako SS barrels that they seem to become rather brittle after about 2,000 rounds. I use a borescope to inspect my barrels. And what I see is that I get a fair amount of copper build-up on the first third of the barrel behind the receiver. It looks like the build-up is primarily forming in surface cavities. Even after cleaning with anti-copper solvents twice, I still see 'fields of copper' all over the place. Never had this on carbon steel barrels this badly after a comparable amount of shots through them.

Do SS barrels erode faster than carbon steel barrels?
 
McFox: Another 'no'. You did not say what the cartridge is. If it's one of the 'boomers', 2K could be normal fire-cracking. I have a factory chrome-moly 22-250 with 2235 rds. thru it, nearing the 'end-of-life', and the fire-cracking holes also fill-up with copper, as seen with my 'Hawkeye'.
 
I have this on a .222 and .308 barrel. Compared to Blaser carbon steel barrels they show clear signs of faster erosion.
 
McFox: That's really a low round count, if accurate, for a 222 Rem and 308. I've seen similar indications of throat/barrel erosion with the 'Hawkeye', but after a cleanup session with JB bore paste,blue label), the bore is the usual excellent surface. I've looked inside some of my barrels, and saw what I thought was the beginning of fire-cracking, and after a good cleanup, removing the accumulated carbon, the 'firecracking' is gone. In these instances, I think it's the hard surface of the carbon that is 'cracked', and underneath, the barrel steel is close to 'as new'. Give it a good cleaning with JB & 'scope it again, you may be surprised. Just some of what I've learned, I think) with the borescope: best investment I ever made.
 
I have not see much difference between SST and Steel. However, I think some of the chemical cleaners result in faster fire cracking.

If you have a crack and the liquid clean gets in the crack it is later exposed to several thousand degree heat. Who knows what happens.

I stopped using all chemical cleaners on my premium barrels. I use only Koil and bore paste.
 
'I've stopped using chemical cleaners in my barrels. I only use Koil,sic) and JB.'

I assume that you do not consider either of these products to be chemicals. What are they? If Kroil ain't a chemical then grits ain't groceries.
 
'Chemical Cleaner' Koil is a penetrating oil. Bore Paste is very mild clay base abrasive.
 
McFox,

McFox said:
Even after cleaning with anti-copper solvents twice,

I think you need to keep cleaning until there is no more copper at all. Otherwise you can't see what's under the copper and won't be able to decide the proper course of action.
Aren't Sako SS barrels hammer forged? I think hammer forged barrels would react differantly when shot to the point of "fire cracking" than cut or button rifled barrels. I was able to get a 25-06 C/M barrel that was rather heavily fire cracked to shoot tight groups again after laping the barrel w/ #320 grit compound. it took over 60 passes to get it cleaned up and I knew it was just a temporary fix. but it did work until I could get a new barrel.
Chrome/Moly barrels will etch under the copper via electrolysis due to the dis-simular metals, however, SS barrels won't is my understanding.

Good Luck, Joe
 
are you sure that it is a stainless barrel. i think sako chrome lines their bores. but i could be wrong. i know that after shooting about 15,000 rounds in a chrome lined ar-15 barrel that the bore looks like a dried up lake bed. i shoot stainless exclusively, but have shot chrome moly in the past.
 

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