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Spray can Clearcoat for stocks

cncmill

Erick Crouthamel (Crouthamel Precision)
Finally finished the stock I have been working on. The last piece of the puzzle. I tried a clear coat in a spray can from Spray Max. It is a two part mix with hardener. You just shake it up, flip the can over and depress the plunger to puncture the internal container that has the hardener and shake again. Works very well. I should wet sand with 1500 grit and wax but I don't think it is necessary. It seems very hard too. I tried to scratch it with my fingernail and it didn't leave a mark. It can be purchased at Amazon. Hope this helps the do-it-yourselfers out there. I sealed the stock with a few coats of Tru Oil first before clear coating.

Stock is 4" wide cherry with red heart wood and some redwood burl for the but plate. A little carbon fiber on the bottom for riding the front bag. Borden Rimrock BR, RBLPRE, 6BRX



Erick Crouthamel



IMG_1780 resized.jpg IMG_1785 resized.jpg
 
Erick,

That looks great!

If you wouldn't mind, I have a few questions:

• Was it difficult to avoid runs?
• Did you spray the entire stock all at once, or did you spray only horizontal surfaces, waited a few seconds (or whatever time is necessary), rotated the stock, sprayed, waited, etc?
• What are the set time and full dry times?
• How many coats did you apply, and was one can sufficient for the entire stock?

Thank you for sharing!

Nando
 
Last edited:
Erick,

That looks great!

If you wouldn't mind, I have a few questions:

• Was it difficult to avoid runs?
• Did you spray the entire stock all at once, or did you spray only horizontal surfaces, waited a few seconds (or whatever time is necessary), rotated the stock, sprayed, waited, etc?
• What are the set time and full dry times?
• How many coats did you apply, and was one can sufficient for the entire stock?

Thank you for sharing!

Nando

I did have runs my first time around. My fault not the spray. I had it on a bent coat hanger and decided to hold the stock in the middle with one hand and spray top and bottom and then hang it and finish the rest. I had a couple minor runs because of the stopping and starting. I swore a little or a lot, don't remember. I left it dry a few hours and hit the runs with some wet 400 grit sand paper. Cleaned it, tack ragged it, sprayed it again. Looked good except for something blowing around in the wind stuck to it. Left it dry over night. Wet sand paper the bad spot only. Cleaned, sprayed the whole thing again. Was finally happy.

When I did it the second time I left it hang. Much better control. The nozzle will rotate for a horizontal or vertical spray. I rotated it so it sprayed horizontal and went up and down the hanging stock.

It setup in few hours and I left it over night to completely dry. After all my monkeying around there was some still left in the can. I guess you could get three coats out of a can. Pot life of the mixed can is 48 hours which is nice if you need to redo again.

When I do another ,and I will, I will spray it, wait an hour and spray again if I don't have problems.

I think if I would wet sand it with 2000 grit and buff it, it would really shine.

Erick Crouthamel
 
I've been wanting to do this to my stock but couldn't decide on what finish to buy without having to get a whole gallon. Thanks for posting this.
 
Thanks for the info Erick. I've avoided 2 part epoxy clears (except when my buddy, who does custom car painting, had some extra and could spray it for me), even though I love their durability, because I didn't know you could get them in a spray can. Now we're good to go.

Mike
 
Erick,
Thank you for your reply.

One thing I would like to add, even if it did not appear to pose a problem for you - Beware of Tack Rags.

I have had two bad experiences caused by the residue that (some?) tack rags leave on the surface. On a 1/3-scale model Stearman biplane, the first coat over the fabric covered wings flaked off. After several conversations with RustOleum reps and several trials, I traced the problem to the tack rags I used. Sorry, I can't remember the brand.

Not long after, thinking that the problem was due to the RustOleum paint with the tack rags, I used a different brand tack rag (from Home Depot) for a very fine wood project with polyurethane. Again, I had some problems.

Since then, I vacuum first, and then dust with a dry rag. After that, I add a few drops of odorless mineral spirits to a rag, and wipe the entire surface. Using this method I have not had any issues over the past 17 years and lots of paint, polyurethane, and Envirotex coated projects.

Nando
 
When I did my laminated stock, my final sanding of the wood was with 200 grit. I wanted to get it sorta smooth but also leave something for the finish to latch on to. Then I did my over sand with 600 grit. After the next coat, I used the 600 again. When that dried thoroughly I used automotive rubbing compound to finish polishing.
 

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