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Sorry another finding the lands post

Tod Hendricks

Gold $$ Contributor
Sorry in advance for another finding the lands post.

Finding the lands debate has been hashed so many times. So why the hell am I posting this. Well, I think a lot of the debate comes from shooters adapting their lands finding methods for their type of shooting and specific cartridge, it works for them, that’s great. But maybe that is not the best for me and my cartridge, bullet and discipline.

This is what works for ME and my 284-win, 180 hybrid shooting multi day 400+ rounds F-Class matches.

You either touch or don’t touch, you don’t get a little bit pregnant! A throat can grow quite a bit in 400 rounds of a F-Class match, or very little. I usually seat long when I travel, with my finding the lands method I could very easily test and adjust each evening at a match if I wanted to touch (I don't, I push em to the same length each evening). I’ve tested shooting at various lengths of touch, and some have shot very well. The two reasons I don’t touch, #1 even if you use sufficient neck tension you run the risk of the OAL changing when you cam in, #2 I can usually find a jump that works just as good or better and for me is more forgiving.

Before I talk about my lands method, I FL size every time, and not just a little, cases come out of a chamber with different dimensions, I make sure they all get squeezed, this allows me to use the same brass in every barrel, I actually run two different reamers in 284 and my brass goes back and forth between them (don't ask, everyone has to make life a little difficult once in a while!). I make my dies and sand/polish them to size. I bring this up because when I test for touch it’s with a sized case that will fall out of a chamber with ease.

OK, I know I am going to jump, to me that means no touch. I use two methods simultaneous, and you can do this with your first round of loaded ammo out of the press if you want, or use a dummy round for the first couple times.

Remove bolt, use a ¼” wooden dowel longer than the barrel (cleaning rod works but dowel is more forgiving on the crown) inserted in the muzzle, push a long loaded case or dummy round (long enough to touch the lands) into chamber with an ECI from behind (any plastic or wood pusher will work), push against the bullet with the dowel, its very easy to feel it stick, you can jockey it back and forth, using the press and micrometer top on seating die keep pushing the bullet down, eventually you will get to the point where you can jockey the case back and forth and feel no resistance or sticking. At this point I push the case in with the ECI and then tip the barrel up, if the case does not fall out, something is holding it which means its touching. It should only take a couple more thou to get it to free fall.

For me the last part is just a formality, through my testing I’ve found the first 10 thou of jump has a narrower tune window. This is very easy to test.

After I set my desired OAL, I don’t really worry about the touch number (which is almost always between 10 and 30 thou. from free fall on a barrel with 100 to 200 rounds), as the barrel ages I retest around the original OAL and surprisingly the tune number/OAL doesn’t change much, if at all. Setting my desired OAL is another subject.

If you want to test this, take your free fall number, load three 3 shot groups, +.005 .000 and -.005, you can see a difference at 100 yards, but 500 or 600 is better for testing.
 
I'm not a competitive shooter but I do load and shoot for precision varmint and predator hunting. Besides accuracy, a prime requirement is reloads that function flawlessly in the field.

I've been shooting and reloading a long time (about 50 years now ) which does not make me an "expert', only a guy with a lot of experience who has made his fair share of mistakes and hopefully has learned from them.

I never found it necessary to touch the lands in order to develop accurate loads. Some of my better varmint rifles shoot in the sub 1/4 moa range with bullets seated .010 to .020 off the lands.

Also, I found that the Frankfort Arsenal tool / method to be very useful, practical, easy, simple, and repeatable when measuring to find the lands for a given bullet. This method established the max OAL based of the bullet's ogive touching the lands.
 
For those who do not know him, Tod is one of the very best F-open shooters in the country and is a member of the F-Open team that has dominated the rest of us for a few years now. I am actually surprised, but thankful to see him sharing some of his knowledge here. So, Tod, please finish the discussion and let us know your thoughts on OAL length. You mentioned that you generally seat off the lands. Anything other suggestions with regard to OAL?

I try to seat about .020 to .030 off touch when the barrel is new and then simply adjust powder as the barrel wears to maintain the original tuned velocity. I'm not a believer in tuning seating depth for F-class because we shoot such long strings in conditions and temps that vary a lot during the day. Should I be trying to squeeze more juice from the lemon? Over time, I have become a believer in "reliable" vs "smallest group." What do you think?

regards,
Scott
 
I like the idea of letting the cartridge just fall out of the chamber, no dought your off the lands at that point.
Thanks for the info and by the way Hubbard has Russian primers. Lol
 
Thanks for the compliment Scott, you do a pretty good job yourself!

I couldn’t agree more, “reliable” is my motto and never ever ever believe one group or one test!

I am pretty unscientific in my load development, I believe in the more data the better philosophy. I do powder charge ladder group tests repeatedly, I mix in seating depth test occasionally. I keep a book on every barrel with every test target printed out, every load is logged and referenced on each target. I analyze the targets and look for the most consistent pattern and movement over a .5 to .6 grain powder charge. When I settle on a load for a match, I will do a seating depth group test, 5 shots at each length (usually .004"), of course I am already close to where I know I will be so its not that many rounds, I look for how the groups move compared to each other.

As you implied, long strings and big temperature swings equal bad things for finicky loads.
 
Thank you Tod for sharing your experience with loading for the 284win
The Hornady tool seems to work fine for me. Simple and quick.
When I use this tool in my .308 pushing the ogive in first mine come out as much as 90 thousandths over the listed max. OAL....I get many variations trying to get my OAL at 2.805...and many headaches using different bullets with skinny ogives....I shoot Ballistic tips mostly, have been trying some Sierra 165&168s along with the Sierra 175gr. match bullets...any suggestions on different techniques with the Hornady tool.
 
When I use this tool in my .308 pushing the ogive in first mine come out as much as 90 thousandths over the listed max. OAL....I get many variations trying to get my OAL at 2.805...and many headaches using different bullets with skinny ogives....I shoot Ballistic tips mostly, have been trying some Sierra 165&168s along with the Sierra 175gr. match bullets...any suggestions on different techniques with the Hornady tool.
Not sure what you mean by "pushing the ogive in first". I retract the push rod far enough back in the case so that the bullet being tested doesn't have a chance to touch the lands and tighten the thumbscrew. Then, I push the cartridge in to where it is stopped by the shoulder. While holding the cartridge in that position, I then loosen the thumbscrew and push the bullet in til it stops against the lands and tighten that thumbscrew back down. I have a 17 cal carbon fiber cleaning rod that I then use to push the locked cartridge back out enough do that the bullet doesn't get stuck in the lands and finally retract the locked cartridge out and measure the COL.
FWIW, my Hornady gauge came with a plastic push rod. Knowing how the thumbscrew could create a permanent dent in the plastic, I replaced it with a brass rod of the same diameter that I got from the hobby metal section at the local hardware store. Much harder to leave a permanent dent in brass. That was over 10 years ago and its still going strong.

Hoot
 

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