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Some better ways to read a balance beam scale

BoydAllen

Gold $$ Contributor
Recently I have posted on a thread that started out about a balance beam scale that is in need of a tune-up. Rather than post these on that thread, I have started a new one. After shooting the first three pictures and downloading them onto my computer, I discovered that instead of shooting through the magnifying glass and the Handy View's prism that my camera was too high and that I only had a shot of the image through the magnifier, so I reshot that one, but included the first version to show what a magnifier alone can do. Obviously with so many uncoated surfaces the image that is through both has much less contrast, BUT since its primary function is for alignment of the marks, without parallax, at a higher magnification, it will do the intended job. Comments, criticisms, and suggestions are fine.
betterwaystoreadascale001.jpg

betterwaystoreadascale002.jpg

betterwaystoreadascale003.jpg

betterwaystoreadascale004.jpg
 
Thanks Boyd. I'm not sure if you were the one to post years back using a magnifying glass with a mirror setup or not. I tried the web cam and got too grainy of a display so I went to the magnifying glass with mirror and have used that method for the past several years.
 
The issue is not focus, but size. If I balance the scale, and then set it .1 one way or the other, the amount of difference is small. If I have a magnified image, that small difference is much easier to detect. The best view is on my computer monitor. The others are quite a bit better than just looking at the scale. At the distance that I am working at, I don't need my glasses. Closer, I do, as well as some distance farther.
 
Has anyone tried a "webcam" and using their PC monitor for viewing?

If I go back to using my beam scale, I just might try that. Logitech has one that will focus down to 3.9". I'm sure there are others out there that will do likewise.
 
Look around on Ebay. I looked on Logitech's web site (the brand of my manual focus webcam) and they may not be making manual focus cameras any more, but some of the older ones are still available, for very reasonable prices, on Ebay. Mine will focus down so close that the lens body gets in the way of illumination of the subject. If you look at the top picture of my first post, it shows what you are asking about. Of all the setups it is the best, because of the image size, sharpness, and complete elimination of parallax. I did not come up with this idea, I saw it on YouTube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCs0Y7HH2zA
 
Boyd,
I have a microsoft camera, it is okay but not great, I can't get full screen and no adjustment, what is the model of your Logitech camera and I will buy one off Ebay if I can find one, thanks in advance my friend, oh and nice thread by the way.
Wayne.
 
I can't see a model number on mine, but this one looks to be very similar.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Logitech-C250-Web-Cam-NIP-New-Unopened-Package-/190689665838?pt=PCA_Video_Conferencing_Webcams&hash=item2c65fd632e
 
If this works out, the first picture is with the lens barrel almost touching the object, and the second one is from about 4" back.
Picture001.jpg

Picture002.jpg
 
These are the ones I use - Very clear image, adjustable lens, just plug into the USB port - No software needed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-30-0M-Webcam-Camera-Web-Cam-With-Mic-for-Desktop-PC-Laptop-/130690791486?pt=PCA_Video_Conferencing_Webcams&hash=item1e6dc7383e

If you want a full screen image then I use a free download called VP-Eye.

Less than $10 will change the way you think about beam scales.
 
I took a chemistry class years ago and proper use of a balance was in the course. They suggested determining 0 while the beam was moving very slowly. Friction will cause the beam to stop sometimes just a little off o. I gently touch the cup or blow on the cup to start a little movement.
 
You are right about the friction, but I have dealt with that by sharpening and deburring my scale's knife edges. It repeats pretty well. IMO all of this viewing stuff should come after a tuneup.
 
Webster said:
I took a chemistry class years ago and proper use of a balance was in the course. They suggested determining 0 while the beam was moving very slowly. Friction will cause the beam to stop sometimes just a little off o. I gently touch the cup or blow on the cup to start a little movement.

The "Magnetic Damper" also stops the movement sooner than on a conventional beam scale. Can contribute to "friction errors" if the agate isn't clean and the edge sharp.
 
Dear Mr. Boyd Allen

I would be very cautious about anything that no good (expletive deleted) bozo699 has to say in this matter.

I've seen his referee skills in a few other games.............. ::)

blind.jpg
 
bigedp51 said:
Dear Mr. Boyd Allen

I would be very cautious about anything that no good (expletive deleted) bozo699 has to say in this matter.

I've seen his referee skills in a few other games.............. ::)

blind.jpg

Ed your a nut!! I think Boyd is perfectly aware of my down falls :P you made a gloomy rainy day much brighter Ed,...thanks :)
Wayne.
 

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