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Smokeless Muzzle Loader?

spitfire_er

Silver $$ Contributor
Just was curious if anyone out there has built a custom smokeless muzzle loader. Main question I have is when threading for the breach plug, are they usually single point cut or do most guys use a tap? Going to build one here soon and that's about the only thing I'm not sure of.

A tap would seem much easier and the nature of the plug system as long as the shoulders are square and the igintion port centered, I would think it would all be good. Making sure threads are in spec of course as well ether way you do it.

I'll probably be using a Hankins Ignition System.
 
I forget who did the video years ago about building a smokeless muzzle loader but he used a tap instead of single pointing. The claim was it did not have to be single pointed as the tap had no impact on accuracy as long as the hole was bored concentric to the axis/firing pin. I think a tap would work fine but I would probably single point cut the threads so I did not have to buy a tap I would not use much.
 
wwbrown said:
I forget who did the video years ago about building a smokeless muzzle loader but he used a tap instead of single pointing. The claim was it did not have to be single pointed as the tap had no impact on accuracy as long as the hole was bored concentric to the axis/firing pin. I think a tap would work fine but I would probably single point cut the threads so I did not have to buy a tap I would not use much.
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Richard Franklin did a video years back on building smokeless muzzle loaders.
 
I talked to Jeff Hankins several days ago about this, he guided me in the right direction for machining the barrel. I've built a lot of custom rifles, but this will be my first SML. A small learning curve, but I'll be able to turn out a really nice rifle.
 
Been pondering a sml for some time. I think I may start with a long blank and machine the "receiver" into the back end of the blank. Should be fairly simple and no ffl requirements, as with the savage and remington based builds.
 
I have what may be a dumb question but something I have wondered about with tap vs single point cutting the threads. Keep in mind that I am neither a gunsmith or a machinist. When using a tap to cut the breech plug threads, how do you get the threads to finish "cleanly" where they meet the internal shoulder of the hole that you pre-bored into the barrel blank?
 
agr516 said:
I have what may be a dumb question but something I have wondered about with tap vs single point cutting the threads. Keep in mind that I am neither a gunsmith or a machinist. When using a tap to cut the breech plug threads, how do you get the threads to finish "cleanly" where they meet the internal shoulder of the hole that you pre-bored into the barrel blank?
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No need in this case. The plug can be turned down on the end, which gives clearance but also, you form a seat on the plug that mates to one in the bbl. Otherwise, the threads will get crud all in them and very likely leak pressure by them.
 
gunsandgunsmithing said:
No need in this case. The plug can be turned down on the end, which gives clearance but also, you form a seat on the plug that mates to one in the bbl. Otherwise, the threads will get crud all in them and very likely leak pressure by them.
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I think I see what you mean. So the threads get turned down on the end of the plug to form a portion of smooth "shank" which seats against the shoulder inside the barrel and prevents gas from leaking back into the threads?
 
agr516 said:
I think I see what you mean. So the threads get turned down on the end of the plug to form a portion of smooth "shank" which seats against the shoulder inside the barrel and prevents gas from leaking back into the threads?
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That's how and why I would do it and how several are made. So yes.
 
agr516 said:
I think I see what you mean. So the threads get turned down on the end of the plug to form a portion of smooth "shank" which seats against the shoulder inside the barrel and prevents gas from leaking back into the threads?
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No not really. Most are setup to seal on the flange at the back of the module where it mates up with the barrel. There’s been argument over this but Hankins did a test and posted a YouTube video on it. You run a taper tap in and finish with a bottoming tap just deep enough so that the flange on the module seats up tight and flush to the barrel with just enough room up front to keep the threads from bottoming out. This is the simplest to get them to seal and set headspace. If you try to get the front of the module to seal it makes the job more difficult than it needs be. As far as I know both Hankins and Arrowhead do them this way.

Edit: My comments here ^^^ apply to Remington type receivers and the 5/8-18 breech plugs.

Oh, trying to single point the module threads is another making things harder than they need to be. Most just drill and tap. If you want to go ahead and drill, bore and tap if it makes you feel better. Hankins runs a 9/16” drill in and taps for the 5/8” modules. You get more thread engagement with the 9/16”. FWIW I have my own little procedure I do to get the bore setup for threading that makes me happy and I’m sure others do as well.
 
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WSnyder said:
No not really. Most are setup to seal on the flange at the back of the module where it mates up with the barrel. There’s been argument over this but Hankins did a test and posted a YouTube video on it. You run a taper tap in and finish with a bottoming tap just deep enough so that the flange on the module seats up tight and flush to the barrel with just enough room up front to keep the threads from bottoming out. This is the simplest to get them to seal and set headspace. If you try to get the front of the module to seal it makes the job more difficult than it needs be. As far as I know both Hankins and Arrowhead do them this way.

Oh, trying to single point the module threads is another making things harder than they need to be. Most just drill and tap. If you want to go ahead and drill, bore and tap if it makes you feel better. Hankins runs a 9/16” drill in and taps for the 5/8” modules. You get more thread engagement with the 9/16”. FWIW I have my own little procedure I do to get the bore setup for threading that makes me happy and I’m sure others do as well.
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He does them both ways(Hankins) I personally prefer a seat over grease to keep crud out of the threads. Add a little work? Yes, but very little. Ultimately, either way does work. It could also be set up for both surfaces to seal.

Hankins Ignition Systems - Hanks Precision Gun Parts

hanksprecisiongunparts.com hanksprecisiongunparts.com
 
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