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SMK moly coated bullets

Can't find the 500 pc bulk boxes of the standard 80 grain SMKs in .224 but Powder Valley has the moly coated variety for only about $15 more. Are there any disadvantages to them besides the slightly higher price?
 
Most likely you are going to wind up loosing a little bit of velocity with moly coated bullets. It may take 20 or more rounds but eventually your velocity will drop off a bit since the bullets are lubricated and therefore wont build up as much pressure. So there are three things you can do: 1. Shoot the moly bullets as is and accept the lower velocity, 2. SAFELY work up your powder charge to get back to the velocity was with Naked bullets, or, 3. drop all of the moly coated bullets in your brass tumbler with walnut or comparable media and tumble all of the moly off of them (you will most likely have to throw out your tumbling media after this).
 
As Maoo720 covered - you will experience a velocity drop using moly. That velocity can always (in my experience only) be regained by incrementally increasing the charge. With the 80's, it will take, from my prior experience about 3/10 to 1/2 of a grain to get you back up to speed. Do so incrementally in 2/10 increments to be safe. The downside to moly is that your gun will usually shoot best and fall into "the groove" after anywhere from 10 to 30 shots - though some guns can do so with more or less. If you compete - this can affect how you go about your cleaning - and when - prior to a match. The only other "down side" is it will greatly affect how much neck tension you need as you now have a very slippery bullet. I shoot moly bullets (with no cannelure) in my A/R and, once PLENTY of neck tension is applied (about 3 to 4 thousandths worth), your bullets will not dislodge when recoiling or loading - yet I can run an entire match with no concern for cleaning. Look at Lapua's website for info on their findings of using Moly. I subscribe to their findings for sure. There are barrel manufacturers and gunsmiths - along with many knowledgable shooters who won't use the stuff. I love it. Particularly, I use in all bolt action match loads where I find a jambed load to work best. If there is a cease-fire - I can unload my rifle without the bullet getting stuck in the bore and pouring powder into my action which will surely cause my trigger to jam up - taking me out of the match. Your rifle will tell you if it likes it. I have found that in more than a few situations - I have mollied bullets that did not shoot well in a particular rifle when bare - and conversely. You can typically go morerounds fired prior to cleaning, cleaning will usually be easier with somewhat less copper fouling. My only BAD experience was trying to get unleaded bullets to shoot well with moly. Just couldn't do it.
 
I have been shooting moly coatred 80 gr. Bergers in a Savage 7 twist for about 6 years. This is a factory class competition rifle and usually does pretty well. Barrel now has 2,750 moly coated bullets thru it and shows little sign of wear. My load is a stiff load of Varget lighted with BR4's, jammed .010". You will need to increase your load with moly for reasons stated above.

IMO, the only advantage with moly is increased barrel life.
 

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