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Smith for a Smith...

Richard Jones

First I drink the coffee, then I do the things.
Gold $$ Contributor
Can someone recommend a good gunsmith to re-time a S&W 686? I am in Virginia, but can also ship to wherever.

Many thanks.
 
Is it out of time with too much cylinder rotation or not enough?

And how much are we talking about.?

You should hear the cylinder lock snap in with about 1/16 inch of hammer travel remaining.
 
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What is wrong with sending back to S&W?

The S&W DA revolver system is fairly simple to work on by swapping parts without having to hand fit like a Colt. You can likely fix it yourself if you wanted.

Get this book.

 
What is wrong with sending back to S&W?

The S&W DA revolver system is fairly simple to work on by swapping parts without having to hand fit like a Colt. You can likely fix it yourself if you wanted.

Get this book.

If it’s slow on time you can peen the cylinder advance hand and add a few thousandths in length.

Or get one of these. If it is timed slow, this will probably fix it.

 
Not my gun, haven't even seen it. Asking for a bud. I'll see if I can play with it a bit.

So no recommendations for a smith?
 
After talking with my bud, it doesn't sound like a timing issue. DA mode won't rotate cylinder, feels like it's dragging. He's going to drop it by so I can maybe see what's going on......
The book is a good idea, thanks.
 
What can happen with high recoil revolvers is it develops more forward and aft cylinder play. This can cause the cylinder to actually rub the barrel when subjected to the thrust of the internal hand as it tries to rotate the cylinder.

If this is the case, the cylinder thrust surface on the crane must be addressed.
 
I would measure the barrel cylinder gap moving the cylinder forward and aft. Anything above 6 thou is suspect. You can shim or replace the yoke.

Typically you will see this with K frames shooting loose especially when fed a diet of 110 gr 357 loads screaming.
 
So I finally got the 686 from my bud. Cylinder was very hard to close and found that the cylinder was actually contacting the forcing cone end. Going against my ingrained "I always look for the hard fix", I pushed the ejector rod, brushed under the extractor star, brushed the extractor recess and now it closes perfectly. I didn't see a piece of trash/brass/whatever there, but I apparently displaced something. Couple of days of research, 30 seconds of actual 'fix' and an old toothbrush.

Look for simple first.

Just wanted to update and not leave it hanging. I hate that.
 

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