Smith and Wesson 15-4 rebarrel?

[mattri]

Have an older 15-4 that could use a new barrel. The lock up is still tight but it wasn't cared for as well as one might hope and rust/pitting have taken their toll. It doesn't have much inherent value but it was my uncle's and I'd like to hang on to it.

Thinking a nice 6" for target work. I'm going to have the frame re-blued at some point if that matters.

Any recommendations on who to source a barrel from?

Thanks, Matt.

 

[jackieschmidt]

Barrel, .38 Cal., 4-1/4" Long, Blued, Factory Original (Stamped Airweight)

Barrel, .38 Cal., 4-1/4" Long, Blued, Factory Original (Stamped Airweight) SMITH & WESSON K FRAME

www.gunpartscorp.com

I think most 38 special K Frame barrels are interchangeable.

 

[mattri]

Cool thanks for the link!

I'd really like to find a heavier profile 6" but will definitely keep that one in mind.

 

[shortgrass]

Get a barrel for a 586, have the thread cut back to the K Frame .540, and you'll have a 'heavier' barrel with a full lower shroud. K Frame and L Frame use the same TPI, so reducing thread diameter isn't a problem. I'd have to look it up, as it's been awhile since I've needed the info, but I'm thinking the L Frame is .562. It won't be 'drop on', but barrel/cylinder gap can and should be optimized, and a new and proper forcing cone cut. I am fixin' to take a personal M15 and put a 4" 586 barrel on it, then blue the completed revolver. I've done a few in the distant past, and the front lock is retained after fitting a L Frame barrel to a K Frame. (I have found some decent barrels on ebay). If you are planning on shooting wadcutters, a different twist (1-14) works well verses S&W 1-18. (you did say "target") In the distant past, it was common to fit a Python barrel to a K Frame.

 

[mattri]

Good to know thanks.
Have any here used Clark barrels.before?

 

[shortgrass]

I have always just used a Shilen blank. Threaded it, cut the forcing cone, cut to length and crown and slab sided it. I made the bottom lug , and installed the "ball lock" , for a front locking point. Did any drilling and tapping, or cut a dovetail for the front sight. I make the top rail from blank stock.

 

[shortgrass]

This one is a Model 10, .38 Special (a personal gun)

 

[DGP4]

I'd send it back to S&W for a re-barrel and bluing. One of the few manufacturers that will still do it and probably charge you less than any gunsmith.

 

[shoot4fun]

I'd send it back to S&W for a re-barrel and bluing. One of the few manufacturers that will still do it and probably charge you less than any gunsmith.

I seriously doubt S&W will or can replace that model's barrel. The old K-Frames are not supported with parts any longer.
Bluing they still do (to my knowledge) and they are the best for rebelling an old S&W by far. Also, last time I talked to anyone, they were much less expensive than anyone else.

Have an older 15-4 that could use a new barrel. The lock up is still tight but it wasn't cared for as well as one might hope and rust/pitting have taken their toll. It doesn't have much inherent value but it was my uncle's and I'd like to hang on to it.

Thinking a nice 6" for target work. I'm going to have the frame re-blued at some point if that matters.

Any recommendations on who to source a barrel from?

Thanks, Matt.

I believe that old barrel could be relined and a nice buffing and bluing would do nicely.

 

[DGP4]

Can't hurt to ask about the barrel. I know they are the best option on a rebluing

 

[paperpuncher]

Put a wtb in the classified section here I got a model 27 barrel here 5” nos from a forum member The pistol I had had a bulge Swapped it out better than new

 

[shoot4fun]

Can't hurt to ask about the barrel. I know they are the best option on a rebluing

the 15-4 started in 1977. I can tell you for a fact there are NO parts (exulting hammer-trigger if you are willing to take MiM parts now) available for them at S&W.
You have little idea just how much S&W has changed over the last 30 years unless you were there.
Just be thankful if you did not buy into the S&W shotguns of the mid-2000's.

 

[kendog]

Before you unscrew the existing barrel, check for swelling of the OD at the forcing cone area. I forget the dimensions, but Kunhausens book has them, among other sources. Used to be a "fix" for a leaded barrel was to fire some jackets through it to get rid if the lead. The lighter K frame barrels would swell from the hydraulic effect of the harder bullets forced over the lead and jack the frame up when it was removed. Worse case you can split the frame at 6 o'clock. Best case the threads get whacked and make fitting a good barrel near impossible.
If it is swollen, MACHINE out the bad part before you unscrew it.
I learned this the hard way...

 

[mattri]

Great replies thanks for the good info.

Have more irons than fire right now but will definitely update when something changes.