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Sliding scope in rings

brokeasajoke

Silver $$ Contributor
I've decided to drag out my savage 110fcp 338L and mess with it some more. Never have been able to get any decent group with this thing. Could be the way I'm holding the rifle and I had another thread a few years ago on that. To busy building a house and hadn't had time to mess with it. Anyway, when I put all my guns up in semi storage I noticed scope had slid forward in the rings. Weaver superslam scope and six screw rings of some sort. Burris maybe buy not with inserts. I've read everything from JB weld, Elmer's, tape, and locktite on rings to keep a scope and in place. Any or all the above? Thanks.
 
I've decided to drag out my savage 110fcp 338L and mess with it some more. Never have been able to get any decent group with this thing. Could be the way I'm holding the rifle and I had another thread a few years ago on that. To busy building a house and hadn't had time to mess with it. Anyway, when I put all my guns up in semi storage I noticed scope had slid forward in the rings. Weaver superslam scope and six screw rings of some sort. Burris maybe buy not with inserts. I've read everything from JB weld, Elmer's, tape, and locktite on rings to keep a scope and in place. Any or all the above? Thanks.
Put a strip of masking tape in the bottem of each lower half, sticky side facing the ring
 
Better yet, put a small strip of aluminum foil on the bottom half of the rings and snug it back down. That should make up for any excess clearance. No sticky to deal with either. Even a small strip piece of paper will do. ;)
 
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I've mentioned this before, but a trimmed layer of cloth electrical tape between rings and scope and nothing moves. One roll lasts a lifetime, unless you misplace it.
 
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Put a strip of masking tape in the bottem of each lower half, sticky side facing the ring
Good idea. I always used masking tape and did the top as well. I always use rosin with it as well, HOWEVER, i have stopped using masking tape. The adhesive was always squishing out of the rings and looked ugly. I have graduated to using left over computer labels. You know, the kind that come on sheets for you to print labels, such as address labels. MUCH better results. No "adhesive walking" and a bit thicker which takes up more irregularities.

Danny
 
Good idea. I always used masking tape and did the top as well. I always use rosin with it as well, HOWEVER, i have stopped using masking tape. The adhesive was always squishing out of the rings and looked ugly. I have graduated to using left over computer labels. You know, the kind that come on sheets for you to print labels, such as address labels. MUCH better results. No "adhesive walking" and a bit thicker which takes up more irregularities.

Danny
Actually I got the idea from Burris. They use to ship a strip of paper with an adeshive backing with some of their scopes to put in the rings. Seemed like a great idea and I found that adhesive tape cut and inserted wotked very well. Thanks for the upgraded info.
 
Fat wrench instructions say 28-30in-lb on my size screws lubricated and 60 dry. I'm gonna put a dab of loctite 243 on them so I'm calling it lubricated. Looks like I did lap some what.
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Looking at your pictures I see your problem. Evidently you do not understand what constitutes proper lapping of rings. My late father would have called that giving it a lick and a promise.
 
Looking at your pictures I see your problem. Evidently you do not understand what constitutes proper lapping of rings. My late father would have called that giving it a lick and a promise.
That sounds about right. I still use that saying. Since I have no lapping tools for 30mm what would be the suggested plan?
 
You can bed the rings, but if you do play close attention to the smallest details, either that, buy a 30mm lapping bar and do it right, or get some of the Burris rings with inserts. Looking at the pictures, I do not believe that that was done with a 1" bar. You must have borrowed a 30mm bar.
 

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