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Skip's Shims

There has been so much confusion and misinformation regarding the use of Skip Shims with FL dies in one of the recent threads that I created this post to hopefully clear things up.

First, I do not have any financial interest in Skip Shims. I am not promoting their use exclusive of other methods. Yes, I've used them for many years because I found them to be the easiest, cheapest, most precise way for ME to make FL sizing die adjustments.

Second, they are not feeler gauges. The are designed specifically for reloading and fit under the lock ring of the die for use with conventional presses like RCBS Redding, Lyman, etc. (Visit Brownell or Sinclair's web sites for a description)

Thirdly, there are other methods for making sizing adjustments to the FL die that are used by others that work equally or better for them. For example, competition shell holders, Whidden Click FL Dies, or just manually adjusting the FL die to obtain the desire sizing. They all can work!

Fourth, if you set up your FL die properly with the shims, you can change the amount of bump simply by replacing the shim. There are different methods to set up the FL die with them. For me, setting up with the .010" work better for ME since it gives me a wide range of bump options by using one of the thinner shims in the set which range from .008 down to .003. Set up this way, the shell holder is always in contact with the die. You never have to change the lock ring of the die to make a sizing adjustment.

Fifth, in order to establish the appropriate shim to obtain the sizing you want, you must use a bump gauge and measure the fire case at the datum line and compare that measurement to that of the sized case datum line. This only works best if you have a group of cases dedicated to a specific rifle and rotate the use of the cases, so they receive the same number of firings and sizing's.

Sixth, as with any method, virgin cases should be first fire formed to the rifle chamber before pushing back the shoulder and then only if needed for adequate chambering. I have discovered, that with certain rifles / brand of cases, often a zero bump is all that is needed. I suspect this is due to the fact that the FL die also sizes the radial dimension of the case which is often the culprit in creating chambering difficulty.

Conclusion: Are they better than other methods? No - they are just another way to "skin the cat" but work best for me.
 
I have two sets, and all my FL dies are set up with Skip's shims, with the size needed posted in the lid of my MTM boxes.

On initial setup, I generally set the die in the middle with a 5 or 6 thou shim to minimize potential stacking, as I tend to leave a few of them on the die.

I'm temped to get another set.....
 
Same here. I have two sets. Been using them for decades. I have notes in my load book on shim thickness for each die. I also use Redding comp shellholders in combination with them at times too.
 
Did you buy shim stock and punch them out yourself? Lacking any machine tools (other than a drill press), that would be a no-go for me.
No, that sounds like way too much trouble to me too. Lol! I think these are what I bought.

 
Die shims? Never heard of 'em.............;)

Good shootin' -Al

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Would someone please explain EXACTLY how you set up your FLS die using these shims?

The confusion appears to be not with the shims, but how the die is set and how shims are added and removed.
 
I watched that video. So set the die to make full contact with the shell holder, size a case and check the cartridge base to datum line, or thereabouts, with a comparator. Add shims to reduce shoulder setback if needed. Fine. I get that.

Now, what are these guys doing who start out with .010" or more shims in place to start with? How exactly are they setting up their die?
 
Now, what are these guys doing who start out with .010" or more shims in place to start with? How exactly are they setting up their die?
No different than setting up your die w/o them.

Leave your die screwed out with the shim of choice on it. Measure your case's headspace, size it, & measure again. Should be too long. Screw the die down a bit, & do it again. Take it down to your preferred bump dimension, & snug the lock ring down.

I generally prefer to chamber the case with a stripped bolt to make sure it's where I want it, along with measuring it. After you've bump the 1st case several times while setting up, do a couple three more to make sure.
 
No different than setting up your die w/o them.

Leave your die screwed out with the shim of choice on it. Measure your case's headspace, size it, & measure again. Should be too long. Screw the die down a bit, & do it again. Take it down to your preferred bump dimension, & snug the lock ring down.

I generally prefer to chamber the case to make sure it's where I want it, along with measuring it. After you've bump the 1st case several times while setting up, do a couple three more to make sure.
So if you're adjusting the die within the lock ring then what is the shim doing for you apart from adding an additional piece?
Seems like unnecessary complications. I do it as you lay it out above but without shims.

Still don't know what the guy's starting out with .010" of shims are doing.

Not trying to be an antagonist, but something in this makes no sense to me.
 
They *might* be depending on how the die and lock ring are initially set. That's my question. How is the die and lock ring set and when do the shims come into play?
 

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