Sizing lead bullets help

[SSL]

A little off base here, but has anyone tried sizing a cast .458" bullet to .452" or that too far to size down with typical sizing dies? I have a fast-twist .50 caliber muzzle loader that I would like to try with 350-400 grain bullets and sabots. Molds for .45-70 bullets run in the weight range I'm looking for, but I don't want to try any if they don't size down to my needs. Rifle shoots great with PowerBelt bullets 350-grain+, but I can cast and shoot my own a lot cheaper if practicable.

 

[linebaugh]

accurate molds and others will cut a .458 to .452 dimensions. Also there are .50 to .458 sabots

 

[SSL]

accurate molds and others will cut a .458 to .452 dimensions. Also there are .50 to .458 sabots

Thanks...have to look into .50/.458 sabots. Haven't seen those yet.

EDIT: Just did a search with those parameters and found MMP and Harvester sabots...probably more. I just didn't think to refine my search enough. Thanks again!

 

[rockhound78]

You can size down without too much trouble, but you really need to fill the lube grooves first, to keep them from collapsing and you should do it not over .003" at a time.

 

[DShortt]

A little off base here, but has anyone tried sizing a cast .458" bullet to .452" or that too far to size down with typical sizing dies? I have a fast-twist .50 caliber muzzle loader that I would like to try with 350-400 grain bullets and sabots. Molds for .45-70 bullets run in the weight range I'm looking for, but I don't want to try any if they don't size down to my needs. Rifle shoots great with PowerBelt bullets 350-grain+, but I can cast and shoot my own a lot cheaper if practicable.

How did you determine that you need to size your lead bullets to .452"?

Accuracy with cast lead sometimes requires a larger bullet than normally expected is why I'm asking.

 

[SSL]

How did you determine that you need to size your lead bullets to .452"?

Accuracy with cast lead sometimes requires a larger bullet than normally expected is why I'm asking.

If used as a bare bullet in a handgun or rifle, I would agree (and I do so regularly). These bullets are for a .50 caliber Pedersoli Rolling Block muzzle loader and require sabots. The only sabots I was familiar with in the .50-caliber range were the ones for .452" bullets...which I currently use with self-cast .452" 300-grain bullets in this rifle. I want to try heavier bullets than the ones I generally cast for .45 handguns and looked at my old molds for .45/70s. They, of course, cast .457-.458" bullets. If limited to the sabot sizes I have seen, the bullets from any of my .45/70 molds would have to be sized down to .452"
Makes no difference now. Thanks to a gentle nudge from @linebaugh, I found the correct .458 to .50 caliber sabots and ordered a few. Now I can shoot anything from .452' 250, 260 and 300 grain bullets to .458" 345, 380, 405 and 500 grain bullets. The 1-24" twist allows me a lot of latitude and capability.

 

[Adam in WI]

No big .50 caliber slugs to try?

 

[SSL]

No big .50 caliber slugs to try?

Never cast for that size, except round ball (.490-.495"). .500 or .501" might be a bit rough to jam down that bore. Might as well make use of what I have on hand. Only need to pick up a few sabots this way. Mostly just a little bored and got a wild hair to mess with it.

 

[Adam in WI]

It's not that bad. First bullets I ever shot in my Hawken were T/C Maxi-Balls and Maxi-Hunters. Those were full diameter bullets. Like anything, enough lube and a good push and it'll go...

 

[dk17hmr]

I have sized .475 down to .459 in one pass with a Lee sizer. 458 to 452 is real easy.

The Lee REAL bullets are pretty good also for full bore plinkers. I have them in 50, 54, and 58 caliber. Full bore muzzleloader slugs should be mostly pure lead they will load easy enough.

 

[SSL]

I have sized .475 down to .459 in one pass with a Lee sizer. 458 to 452 is real easy.

The Lee REAL bullets are pretty good also for full bore plinkers. I have them in 50, 54, and 58 caliber. Full bore muzzleloader slugs should be mostly pure lead they will load easy enough.

Thanks for that info. If I really get the bug and my existing molds and sabot plans don't pan out, I may look at the REAL bullets. I've seen them for years but never played with any.

 

[JSH]

I would suggest the Lee sizer/push through for the extra leverage. May be hard on some lube sizers.
Also lube them first or the die can lead up like a barrel. Using the sabot lube grooves washed off will make little difference.
I see no reason to invest in a new mold unless you want a different design.

The real bullets may or may not fly well.

 

[SSL]

I would suggest the Lee sizer/push through for the extra leverage. May be hard on some lube sizers.
Also lube them first or the die can lead up like a barrel. Using the sabot lube grooves washed off will make little difference.
I see no reason to invest in a new mold unless you want a different design.

The real bullets may or may not fly well.

Thanks. I have used the Lee sizers for quite a few years and have had good luck. Particularly like pushing from the bullet base rather than worrying about a nose punch fit. Having found a source of the proper size sabots, thankfully I have no need for another mold since I have several weights from when I had .45-70s. That's why I never throw anything out. (At least that's the story I tell my wife and I'm sticking to it!)

 

[Webster]

If used as a bare bullet in a handgun or rifle, I would agree (and I do so regularly). These bullets are for a .50 caliber Pedersoli Rolling Block muzzle loader and require sabots. The only sabots I was familiar with in the .50-caliber range were the ones for .452" bullets...which I currently use with self-cast .452" 300-grain bullets in this rifle. I want to try heavier bullets than the ones I generally cast for .45 handguns and looked at my old molds for .45/70s. They, of course, cast .457-.458" bullets. If limited to the sabot sizes I have seen, the bullets from any of my .45/70 molds would have to be sized down to .452"
Makes no difference now. Thanks to a gentle nudge from @linebaugh, I found the correct .458 to .50 caliber sabots and ordered a few. Now I can shoot anything from .452' 250, 260 and 300 grain bullets to .458" 345, 380, 405 and 500 grain bullets. The 1-24" twist allows me a lot of latitude and capability.

How do you unload a muzzle loader. Do you always have to shoot it?

 

[SSL]

How do you unload a muzzle loader. Do you always have to shoot it?

I usually do, especially if I am only target shooting or at the end of the day when hunting. I also have used a bullet puller, but that can be a lot of work depending on bullet/bore fit. Just goes on the end of a sturdy rod, run down the bore and screws into the nose of the bullet. Now pull...hard! Not overly fond of sticking a rod down the bore of a loaded rifle, even if the cap/primer is removed first. Always seems like a short cut to a new nickname like "Lefty".