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sizing before turning

Do you guys size new brass with a standard die before turning or could one get by with sizing with a type s FL die. I have always used a FL standard die on new brass. But that's an extra die to purchase when acquiring a new caliber.
 
From experience of having done it both ways, I STRONGLY recommend you DO NOT resize new brass! Fireform it first to put the entire casing through the expansion - contraction cycle and then resize and turn the necks if you must. I've become no big fan of turning necks just for the sake of turning neck unless it is to clean them up which means an ever so slight turning with no significant neck change. Now obviously, if you have a tight or custom chamber, that's a completely different matter. But if you can load and close you bolt and open after firing without any resistance, keep the neck turning to a minimum. Neck/chamber clearance is a point of discussion with alot of folks, but I believe if you keep it around .002 clearance, that will give you a nice fit for better accuracy. Just my thoughts.
 
I also fire new brass then FL size it in a non bushing die, then turn the necks, I have found that my cuts are much more consistent versus brand new brass turned then fired.
 
I have to turn first due to the tight neck. Now the reason I'm asking is I got a new box of Lapua 6.5/284 cases and the lengths were all very close but the neck shoulder junction on the outside were not concentric. Therefore I need to full length size them to get the shoulders consistent. If I don't then the cutter will get into the shoulder on the high side and not make it to the shoulder on the low side. Hope that makes sense.
 
Are you loading for 6.5-284 or .284 Win? [br]
I load for both .284 Win and Shehane using Lapua 6.5-284 brass. Both my chambers are Ø.313" necks, requiring a turn before use. My procedure follows: [br]
Inspect brass for flaws, discard any with neck or shoulder folds.
Expand necks to .284 using Sinclair expander die. This is true regardless of caliber. Factory brass is usually too tight to use on a turning mandrel.
Turn in two passes to .0125 neck wall. The first pass to .0135 and the second, a finish cut to final size. I am holding ±.0001" with this method.
Clean in ultrasonic cleaner with a little detergent to remove lubricant.
Rinse and wipe case exterior to dry.
Oven dry at 250° for 15 minutes.
Polish in vibratory tumbler.
Load. [br]
Big PITA but I don't do it that often.
 
I'm of a completely different school , new brass is always FL sized , trimmed to length and weighted , this assures me that I'm starting with the most consistent case that I can get , once that is done I turn as needed , prime & load .

After the first fireforming I cull any case's that have moved to an extream either in OL or Dia. then its neck sizing till the shoulder needs bumped .

stimpy
 
Stimpylu32 said:
I'm of a completely different school , new brass is always FL sized , trimmed to length and weighted , this assures me that I'm starting with the most consistent case that I can get , once that is done I turn as needed , prime & load .
[br]
What about measuring case wall runout? Uniforming primer pockets and flash holes?
 
skyav8r said:
I have to turn first due to the tight neck. Now the reason I'm asking is I got a new box of Lapua 6.5/284 cases and the lengths were all very close but the neck shoulder junction on the outside were not concentric. Therefore I need to full length size them to get the shoulders consistent. If I don't then the cutter will get into the shoulder on the high side and not make it to the shoulder on the low side. Hope that makes sense.
Use a standard FL sizing die, as the bushing Type-S does not always size fully to the shoulder. Its possible the standard die may not bump the shoulder if the factory brass is undersize.
 

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