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Should I redo this bedding job?

I was pillar bedding a Savage single shot target action. I had the pillars attached to the action when I dropped it into the stock covered in devcon steel putty. Pulled it apart yesterday and noticed that I had some bubbles in the epoxy. It does not look great but I think it should still shoot fine. I have heard differing opinions as to whether I should leave it or dremmel it all out and start over. If it is just a cosmetic blemish then I am tempted to just leave it since it is not visible when the gun is assembled. Thoughts?
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I agree I would redo it. If you did not, try to put the bedding compound on both the stock and the action force it into the tight spots. I find this helps me mitigate those voids
I only put bedding on the pillars and stock but not the action directly. I will dremmel out the bedding tonight and try again.
 
Yes It looks bad. Would I redo it? Probably, maybe? Honestly, do I think it will make a big difference in performance if you dremel it all out and do it over? Not really

I wouldnt sell it like it is or even give it to someone because it’s not a great job. But it’s most likely functional.

Shoot it and then decide. I’d probably eventually clean it up just because it would be in my head though.
 
You definitely want to get some support around the entire rear pillar. When you go back in the epoxy, add a raised rib of bedding down the length of the action area in the stock...on a round action this acts to push out and up the sides. Also, don't whip the epoxy together when combining it...that adds air. Fold it together like cake batter. Then let the epoxy set for 5-10 minutes before putting it in the stock.
 
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I was pillar bedding a Savage single shot target action. I had the pillars attached to the action when I dropped it into the stock covered in devcon steel putty. Pulled it apart yesterday and noticed that I had some bubbles in the epoxy. It does not look great but I think it should still shoot fine. I have heard differing opinions as to whether I should leave it or dremmel it all out and start over. If it is just a cosmetic blemish then I am tempted to just leave it since it is not visible when the gun is assembled. Thoughts?
ABLVV87qzEVqA5eWrfFCZhejvdaU7UF1xQBoadVJNkAlc9pIiJo6r5Y4CtN3H6uGc5gUq-FBljwTwij4uFaaJz2MA2zcc2nDLGE0tIwanG8OfI7r1jGjAh0ATqxvml1UBaYaYRIz1sqPX18qpxQQNaSlzas62WY8nYR0qGZ5Cav-fiFg__yztAxKoDnZklegkAmY0AE6IBQ1f5iS3dvn4DehRRsls1RXocGhXAwAIfQUbQLbOImBI51lk4HbTdqLl6MHRCBIVvHsH2PiPGOg6g8Poaj-Kiq99FZIKVhyWNKDPWe_bNv4KVqu-bYf2XC17j9Lf0m6VzgbToxQlsd2AweG-53DZOxyaNGaFXbehR4ndke-I3Gz8JssluMwXMM_ThsO0tvflpeXs6uf_KTQVojzyzAKYTgV_8Wh2R_lATbq8kUwpZFq_wOuKSrCzzVqb4Il3Hw0cU6s6Lnk0B5zBGq0d4sJRgnNuv7lU5hr_mhwgqh1Rt2gFnltcfHAV5M7HNTJDY5q7gaLhx1o67lSnTP1AdG1uhQM-2byONiGHHbZ6t9fEpm4ckCm-Q-M1JFF2Nvghnd3Nj-8ebrjgkcRGR52-dLkHQapoemZb5xMea3VKwMKG7xeKu5AJr3lEWWc4TRAsyyJZ_TibzHVBeariOthfHwJZ9_p-Wh3ES4TT5cjMvuTtm1UwWFTYzjvBY2AGgsJlVXOBrX5lwmbb0GR-ouei66Kh8BCjyevBBjdjICj_jczaPMqSGCV574LbE23wpSdVa7zYGSdkzOW4QBWIC7Q9YiNt5615AnA5FcM4FeyzhXnQVmo7XMOzeepKBguOZQ98DWdBrL2g64dXo8l40sjNfLF2qDs6ld2P4VC0Agb4sq8-5Z1G4-j97vTZHgodyx6Wyf1R2PVOUOLcI1HyPn6R0E3mYi7=w959-h1279-s-no-gm
I personally would, and I would make sure to grind down those pillars 1/16 and bed over them.

The rear tang will "auto float" if you use the balanced barrel method of bedding. Where you wrap tape around your barrel at the balance point of the stripped action and the installed barrel. That will create a balance point where the action and the rear tang will be slightly above the old action inlet. Then after you mud the inlet, the receiver just lies on the mud at the perfect point supported from the front to the back.
 
This is a savage action. The wood only covers half the rear pillar. That is why is is only bedded on one side.
On my tikka, when I drill the oversize hole for the pillars, I often am left with a hole that no longer has wood on one side. In that situation, you really need to get that epoxy in there to replace the wood you have taken out.

The epoxy I use, Marine Tex, after left to fully cure, can be machined very easily. I mostly use flat and half round files. So for example, I would rather have more epoxy going into an area without wood and need to file back to make room for the trigger, mag or bottom metal all to work properly.

And @AlNyhus tip is key. Mix on a piece of cardboard, not in a cup or bowl. Mix in a folding motion. I've never had bubbles using this method.

Either way, that bedding job looks far better than my first one!
 
I've seen far worse bedding jobs in guns that shot great. Heck, many years ago I even used Reynolds Wrap tin foil to tighten up a stock to the receiver on a Rem 700 in 204 Ruger and it was an honest sub 1/4 moa varmint rifle every day it went out to the range or the field.

If you want to show your bedding job to someone or perhaps sell the rifle one day, then maybe you should consider re-doing the bedding job. Otherwise, I would go shoot it before I touched anything. If it shoots amazingly well, then your bedding job was just fine! If it shoots sub-par for your intentions, then you have a great reason to blame it on the bedding and redo it ;)
 
My OCD wins. I ground out the epoxy and am redoing it. I mixed it this time on a large plate and let it sit a bit. Also used more than enough (lots of cleanup.)
 
One other trick that I have found to be helpful is to load the epoxy into a large syringe. I find that if I apply the epoxy like that, most of the air bubbles sort of pop out while dispensing, and I can push the product into the areas that always have trouble. Both sides of the recoil lug get a bead right in the corner of the action. No pockets!
 

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