I don't put up a rifle with a dry bore, be it a chrome moly barrel or a stainless barrel. Sometimes the rifles might sit for quite awhile between sessions and I like a bore protected. When I take them out to go to the range I'll run a patch with a little cleaning oil down the bore, and than a couple of dry patches. Force of habit.
Anyhow, I ran across some old articles by Frank Randall and Tony Boyer, where they in effect recommend not shooting a bone dry bore. In another article by a respected shooter he claimed that shooting with a "wet" bore would reduce heat cracking and crazing, might have been by Seely Masker. It was also claimed that the technique would extend useful barrel life somewhat. There were even pictures of sectioned barrels.
I do know that in one of the big magnums I'll only shoot a "wet" bore. I shot the .300 RUM one time with a squeaky clean dry bore,mopped out with alchohol) and it promptly coppered up but good.
With a wet bore I doubt the lubricant will stay in place much after the first shot,especially burning 100+ grains of RL-25) but perhaps it buffers the first shot down the barrel and the powder fouling left buffers the subsequent shots.
Anyhow, I ran across some old articles by Frank Randall and Tony Boyer, where they in effect recommend not shooting a bone dry bore. In another article by a respected shooter he claimed that shooting with a "wet" bore would reduce heat cracking and crazing, might have been by Seely Masker. It was also claimed that the technique would extend useful barrel life somewhat. There were even pictures of sectioned barrels.
I do know that in one of the big magnums I'll only shoot a "wet" bore. I shot the .300 RUM one time with a squeaky clean dry bore,mopped out with alchohol) and it promptly coppered up but good.
With a wet bore I doubt the lubricant will stay in place much after the first shot,especially burning 100+ grains of RL-25) but perhaps it buffers the first shot down the barrel and the powder fouling left buffers the subsequent shots.
