shooting peep sights in the wind

[Dakota111]

I do a lot of benchrest shooting .22lr and some competing with peep sights. @ 50yds.
my new home range is very windy and I'm having lots of trouble getting good results
with these conditions. I have 2 wind flags and a ribbon attached to the target frame
scores have dropped considerately. from the 249/250 and 250/250 down to the low
240's...I have a Anschutz model 54 match and a 1907...I do a bit better with the 07
but not enough to write home about.
using the same ammo...center X and Eley black box.

any suggestions?

 

[Thauglor]

So the point drop is going from scope to diopter?

 

[Dakota111]

So the point drop is going from scope to diopter?

So the point drop is going from scope to diopter?

 

[Dakota111]

no the point drop is peep sight to peep sight.

 

[joshb]

Ha just need to learn to read the wind and develop your hold offs. Put up more flags. Good luck. It takes time.

 

[patriot]

Find a copy of "The Wind Book" then find a wind coach.

Mark

 

[watercam]

Assuming you are using a spotting scope, focus the scope just a tad closer than the target and look for mirage on horizontal parts of your target frame or against darker background. You will get a feel for how much 'lean' equals so much correction. ONce you have a correction for a given mirage 'lean', try and wait for that condition before you shoot again. Time permitting. Practice as much as possible when the wind is up and blowing instead of calm mornings.

 

[Sray53TXTN]

I do a lot of benchrest shooting .22lr and some competing with peep sights. @ 50yds.
my new home range is very windy and I'm having lots of trouble getting good results
with these conditions. I have 2 wind flags and a ribbon attached to the target frame
scores have dropped considerately. from the 249/250 and 250/250 down to the low
240's...I have a Anschutz model 54 match and a 1907...I do a bit better with the 07
but not enough to write home about.
using the same ammo...center X and Eley black box.

any suggestions?

You could make yourself a windmill station like they use in smallbore competition (catches wind directional changes and shows angle).

 

[cdiver]

I do a lot of benchrest shooting .22lr and some competing with peep sights. @ 50yds.
my new home range is very windy and I'm having lots of trouble getting good results
with these conditions. I have 2 wind flags and a ribbon attached to the target frame
scores have dropped considerately. from the 249/250 and 250/250 down to the low
240's...I have a Anschutz model 54 match and a 1907...I do a bit better with the 07
but not enough to write home about.
using the same ammo...center X and Eley black box.

any suggestions?

I have the same problem shooting free recoil BR in that the hold over is so small that you can not actually see it. I was told by a very experienced shooter that 10,000 of a inch movement of the rifle equates to a 1/4 inch at 50 yds. After that I started to turn the windage on my rest just a fraction at a time seeing no change in the sight picture but the point of impact did change. Very difficult to do in any other shooting method other than free recoil. Now when I shoot scoped (fine crosshair) at a USBR target I can dissect the 10 ring with the crosshair making it much easier to make extremely small hold overs.
Good luck

 

[Fotheringill]

A constant X ph wind is one thing and a swirling or variable and/or unsteady wind is another. The most important flag is the one that is closest to you and not the target since the round will be thrown off target beginning with you and not the one at the target board.

 

[dickn52]

One of the best reads I found was "Reading The Wind" by Ret M/SGT James R. Owen, USMC It refers to distant shots mostly, but works.

 

[patriot]

The most important flag is the one that will give you the earliest warning of a change. Mirage is quicker to react to a change than a flag. But an Olympic shooter taught me there is one indicator that is more important than either.

Mark

 

[dickn52]

Agreed. I was always taught the first flag (6-10 ft in front of) was the one with the best tell.

 

[Shaggy357]

Do you have an adjustable iris on the peep? I was having issues with one of my pistols. I opened the iris a couple of clicks and the additional range of view helped me pick up the wind signs much better. It may change your focus on the front sight, but slight head adjustment can fix that. It's worth a try.....

Steve

 

[dickn52]

Use Gehmann adjustable iris on my Martini MKII and added an AOS lens between the iris and sight base. Front sight, target and rear sight all in perfect focus now.

 

[sacre]

 

[kevin nevius]

Shooting well with iron sights (specially in windy conditions) takes a lot of practice IMHO.

For me, there are several strategies - based on what the conditions are giving you. When the wind is consistent (even at higher velocities, with minimal velocity / directional changes) you can zero for a predominant speed (one that you think will be there for most of your string), and click on either side for the variation. This only works when the changes are marginal, and fairly infrequent. If it gets too bouncy, you will forget where your predominant condition is on the sight - and how many clicks you have for windage on the rifle. Camp Perry is the poster child for this kind of wind - the velocities could get really high, but the variation in most cases was small enough to make it shootable. The lake and its lack of obstructions normally produced good consistency even at 15 / 20mph or higher speeds.

If its highly fluid (high speeds, fast changes in speed / direction) I have learned to shade (never with the relationship between the front and rear - that stays centered. I'm talking about the position of the aiming black in the front aperture). To do this well, it must be practiced to the point that you aren't afraid to break shots with a sight picture your brain is telling you is incorrect. And you need to know how much your "shade" is worth on the target - something else not consistent between individuals). You still zero for what you think will be the predominate condition, and then shade the changes as they happen. The size of the front aperture you are comfortable with, and the light available on that day can also influence the amount of shade (again, these things require practice and comfort). Bisley range can be exceptionally difficult, and if you don't have the confidence (and courage) to shade effectively and break good shots you can get murdered. But that's the key - learning to break clean shots when the sight picture is not centered. Your brain will want to correct (even up to the moment of release) and "push" the sight picture to the center. In practice, you will know you are on the right path when you can consistently shade to the same ring position (without elevation) on the target.

Shading scope in these conditions is also my preferred method (when the variation is too fast to be clicked for), but again - it takes courage and practice to break great shots when your brain is telling the sight picture is not centered.

I hope this helps, all the very best to you in the future!

kev

 

[1813benny]

Kevin gives solid advice and has won the smallbore prone nationals multiple times…..