Setting neck die

[Glenn Powell]

I am having a bugger of a time trying to get my neck die from throwing my necks out of round. Its a new redding neck die, and with the expander ball removed it throws the necks. 003 out. I have no idea what I am doing, but its WRONG, help please, what is the recommended procedure for setting the die up? I have tried squaring up off the shell holder to take the slack out of the threads. Please help, I already have enough grey hair.

 

[284driver]

Is it a bushing neck die or standard neck die? Are you seeing this rumour after seating a bullet or after neck sizing?

 

[Glenn Powell]

Standard neck die, haven't taken the plunge with bushings, yet. And the run-out is before bullet seating. With the expander ball in it is. 008+ out of round. I can visually see the neck is out on the case master. My full length sizer is getting them back to. 001, thankfully. My routine is to d-prime,then neck size with expander ball set as close to the neck as possible.

 

[284driver]

Could be various neck thicknesses springing back more and less on the thin and thick sides. Have you checked a fired case before sizing?

 

[Glenn Powell]

Yep, all within. 001. This is once fired lapua, neck turned.001, neck thickness is spot on. I suspect a bad die.

 

[gotcha]

The issues you're experiencing are not uncommon for Neck size only dies. Alternatives: F/L size w/ minimum shoulder set back (.001" to .002") This allows the body of the die to center the case neck. Or, use a collet type die. Or, use an expander mandrel to insure centering of neck to base of case. Also check that you're expander button shaft isn't bent and pulling nks off center. Pull the expander shaft & chk on your Case Master. Also chk the decapping shaft of the F/L die & see how it compares to the nk die shaft.

 

[243winxb]

Using standard dies, the FL one makes more accurate ammo for me than a neck only die.

 

[lrgoodger]

You didn't say what caliber. If Lee makes a collet neck sizer for it, that's the way to go. Your problem will go away. They worked so well for me on .308 and .223 that I ordered custom ones from them for 6BR (me and my friend both). I now have a 30BR that I'm using a Redding S type on and it does not keep the runout as low as the Lee does. I'm going to have to order another custom for the 30 from Lee.

After fireforming turned Lapua Brass, the runout on the reloads is less than .001", and in most cases less than half that.

 

[ERGJ]

After fireforming turned Lapua Brass, the runout on the reloads is less than .001", and in most cases less than half that.

Exactly my experience with the Lee collet die for .308 win. after fireforming lightly turned Lapua brass and using the Forster ULTRA MICROMETER SEATER DIE on Nosler CC 168gn HPBT bullets.

 

[markm87]

You didn't say what caliber. If Lee makes a collet neck sizer for it, that's the way to go. Your problem will go away. They worked so well for me on .308 and .223 that I ordered custom ones from them for 6BR (me and my friend both). I now have a 30BR that I'm using a Redding S type on and it does not keep the runout as low as the Lee does.

This is the TRUTH for SURE!!!

I couldn't believe my eyes when I checked my necks the first time I set up my lee collet die. WOW!!! EVERY piece was .001 or less. And most of that was just the high spots where the collet leaves a little line.

I now pull the bushing out of my Redding FL and use it for body and shoulder maintenance.

Those lee dies are the best.... and they're cheap as hell too!

 

[Glenn Powell]

Thanks guys, looks like an order from midway is gonna take place pretty quick . I am not into full length sizing every time, works the brass too much in my opinion, and getting replacement brass is impossible locally. I have to order everything but powder and primers.

 

[markr]

Thanks guys, looks like an order from midway is gonna take place pretty quick . I am not into full length sizing every time, works the brass too much in my opinion, and getting replacement brass is impossible locally. I have to order everything but powder and primers.

It has been proven many times in target circles that judicious FL resizing a. makes for more accurate brass and b. does not adversly affect the longevity of the brass.
In other word, you will probably end up with brass that shoots better, fits your rifle better and lasts just as long. Over sizing and over loading is what is a brass killer.

 

[BoydAllen]

I think that sometimes we forget that there are vast differences in FL dies, and that the majority of shooters probably still have the least expensive, one piece variety, that size necks excessively, and then make them crooked as they are expanded to a more correct diameter. ( This is even more the case with one piece neck dies.) One of the probable reasons for this situations is that while a shooter can show off a new rifle, scope or stock to his friends, this is not so easily done with a set of outstanding dies, and if one has the expectation of only having to invest a certain amount in dies, he may be hesitant to triple or quadruple that amount for one die. This is particularly the case for those who would seem to be caliber collectors.

Years back, when I started planning my 6PPC, I started by researching and then buying a quality reamer, the thought was, and still is, that I wanted my loading dies to be compatible with each successive barrel, and for once, things went according to plan.

IMO, a well thought out chamber, that takes into account the brass that will be used in it, a FL die that works brass as little as possible, and a seater that captures the full potential of the sized brass, are at the very core of accuracy. One way that friends and I have saved some money in this process is to start with the FL die, and then specify the dimensions of the reamer based on those of a well used, FL sized case, creating the fit we want, without the expense of a custom die. This has worked very well, and has saved a lot of money in the process.

For factory chambers, there is a lot to recommend using a Lee Collet die, in combination with a body die that has been set with the aid of the proper tools to accurately measure shoulder bump. If shoulder bump is properly controlled, and cases are PROPERLY annealed (a lot of bad info out there, even in books) every so often, brass should last many firings.

 

[Glenn Powell]

In this particular rifle, a Sako L491 with factory barrel/ chamber, the RCBS full length die dose oversize, its a .223, 26g H335, 52g SMK, not an overly hot load. I can get 12 to 15 firings out of the brass, anealed ever 5 and full sized every 5. When I neck size I don't have to trim the brass, but full sizing really pushes the brass around and trimming is necessary. This rifle has 5000+ rounds through it, I am hoping to burn it out in another 2 or 3 thousand, hopefully less. When I do get a new tube screwed on I will without a doubt go the custom rout on my dies. Its still an incher @ 200,with the occasional 1/2, when that opens up to 2 I will get her a new barrel.
I have learned a great deal about full sizing, neck sizing, body sizing, well sizing in general, and appreciate all the great info. Thanks again.