Sell, or rebarrel?

[gmr4]

In my experience, rebarreling using a Krieger, Brux or Bartlein typically costs roughly $700 all said and done.

I don't gamble or take chances hoping that a new factory rifle will consistently shoot less than 1MOA. Those are big odds, and they usually will not. A premium cut rifled barrel is where I'd place my money.

Put you a good Brux on there and still have problems if the rifle isnt gone through by a smith…good chance it still wont shoot… firing pin dragging… firing pin spring bound up… bedding issues etc..

 

[hoz53]

This is interesting to me
Are you saying - the screw should be clear internally of touching the pillar?
At any point?
Clearance all the way around the screw?
Basically to remedy just drill the pillar larger to provide more clearance around the screw right?
---
I ask because I have one Rem 700 that the screw def rubs against the pillar toward the top
as if the pillar maybe cocked slightly upon bedding
But it shoots very well
This being the case I would never have thought the screw touching a pillar would cause a problem
since I have not encountered a problem
---
However if what you say is true, maybe I should address it and any chance of fliers will be reduced

yes the conventional wisdom is the screws should have clearance from the pillars.. that doesnt meen its an absolute but i would make sure of this on any gun i wanted max accuracy out of.

 

[sacre]

Personally, I would set the existing barrel back a couple threads to get a clean match chamber and recrown it. Rifling is rifling, front and back are usually the problem.

 

[Magnett]

Are you sure:

The sheet metal magazine is free floating in the stock?
The action screws haven’t compressed the stock so the screws are bottoming out?
The scope screws haven’t penetrated to touch the barrel?
The bolt lugs are seating well?

 

[222Jim]

I've got a Kimber in 243, very nice fit and finish, light and well balanced, overall a nice piece. Except that no matter what load I try I have never shot better than 1 MOA at 100 yards, more like 1.25 to 1.75. I have tried tried powders, primers, bullets, seat depth, and charge weight.
I like the rifle mostly because it is very light, under 7 pounds all set up. I have plenty of larger action longer barrel rifles in other calibers, this is the only light weight hunting rifle I have.

I have never had a rifle rebarreled, not sure what it costs. I am wondering if I am better off selling this rifle and finding something else. But, I wonder if the whatever else will shoot any better, or if the cost of a new barrel is worth it.

Before spending money on rebarreling.................

I had a similar issue with a "top notch" guaranteed rifle sub-MOA rifle. Best I could get was ~1.25 MOA after a lot of load development (based on 20 shot groups shot as 4 5-shot groups). Then someone on this website gave me great advice. Check the bedding and action screw torque. That was it.....

First, factory torque spec is 50 in-lbs but it came from the factory with the front screw @ 90 in-lbs, rear at 45 in-lbs.

Second, there was paint on the top of the front and rear pillars where the action screws were located. I CAREFULLY removed that (a painfully slow process).

Reassembled the rifle to manufacturers recommends torque specifications, and it shot ~0.50 MOA.

 

[RabbitSlayer]

Have urbanrifleman hook you up.

It has been my experience that even factory rifles that shoot well foul faster and are a pia to clean. This alone is a good reason to get a barrel instead of another factory rifle.

I personally wouldn't expect such a lightweight rifle to consistently shoot better than 1 moa.

 

[urbanrifleman]

I've got a Kimber in 243, very nice fit and finish, light and well balanced, overall a nice piece. Except that no matter what load I try I have never shot better than 1 MOA at 100 yards, more like 1.25 to 1.75. I have tried tried powders, primers, bullets, seat depth, and charge weight.
I like the rifle mostly because it is very light, under 7 pounds all set up. I have plenty of larger action longer barrel rifles in other calibers, this is the only light weight hunting rifle I have.

I have never had a rifle rebarreled, not sure what it costs. I am wondering if I am better off selling this rifle and finding something else. But, I wonder if the whatever else will shoot any better, or if the cost of a new barrel is worth it.

What is the model number of this Kimber?

 

[Benchrest Braxton]

rebarrel to 6gt!

 

[swd]

I've worked on a few Kimbers that shot like yours. After doing everything else ultimately it took barrels to make them accurate. Financially you will never get your money out of a barrel but if you like the gun, and they are nice gun, I'd do it. If your not that attached to it run it along down the road..

 

[Will Henry]

Rebarrel. I have done a dozen of them in the last couple years, including a 256 Newton for myself. Sometimes the factory barrels suck a little bit. Turned a 7mm-08, which shot IC patterns into a 6mm CM which is maybe the best shooting light rifle I have seen. So, they are worth doing. WH

 

[Coonman300]

Spencer, I was in a similar situation a few years back. Had an old Ruger M77 in 6mm Rem that was my dads (deceased) that wouldn’t shoot well consistently. After multiple loads, different scopes, etc, I decided to rebarrel the gun. Like you, I seeked guidance on this forum as it was the first time I’d ever done it. I went with a Shilen select match barrel and it is now a tack driver and one of my favorite rifles. My experience with the gunsmith was not good at all and I wish I’d have gone with a different one. I think you can find a reputable one easily on the forum. I’m certainly glad I went that route.

 

[spencerhenry]

What is the model number of this Kimber?

84m
Select grade

I'm in Salmon Idaho, but now and then run up to Missoula. Any gunsmiths recommended in that area?

 

[Kracken McGraw]

84m
Select grade

I'm in Salmon Idaho, but now and then run up to Missoula. Any gunsmiths recommended in that area?

Isn’t @Northridge in that area?

 

[Clancy]

I chunked the barrel off my 7mm-08 (2 MOA) and had Beanland put a Lilja “mod84m” contour in 6x47 Lapua on it. I bedded the rifle myself.

It has shot a ton of sub .250 3 shot groups with 108 elite hunters.

You need a barrel contoured this size from the get go, or you’ll just be putting the same stress in it that your factory barrel has. Lilja is the answer.

 

[urbanrifleman]

84m
Select grade

I'm in Salmon Idaho, but now and then run up to Missoula. Any gunsmiths recommended in that area?

It appears to be a one off Mauser type tenon with an extractor cut and cone bolt. Not going to be cross compatible with anything.

I vote SELL.

 

[Galan]

What’s the twist rate/bullet weight? My 243W is sensitive to the lighter bullet choices, shoot 100’s great…just a thought.

 

[a-dog]

I'm in the exact same situation but with a custom Mauser 6mm Rem that I inherited. I've tried every combination of powder and bullet that will work with that barrel. If I do decide to re-barrel, I will go with a more modern cartridge like 6 creedmoor. That way I can have the benefit of a longer freebore and faster twist to use heavier bullets.