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scuffing inside of case neck

josebd

Silver $$ Contributor
I'm having trouble,I'm getting some scuff marks all the way around the inside of my case necks for 22-250.
It started all of a sudden.im using forster dies,rcbs trim pro manual.
I resized and trimmed some a while back,then when I started back up is when it started,I'm also using the trim pro 3 way cutter.
Doesn't do it with .223
 
Ok what I found.when I put the 22-250 brass in the Shell holder on my trimmer,and I push the cutter pilot into the neck,it's off center some.
With .223,and the .223 shell plate,the cutter pilot goes right into the neck,like it's perfectly lined up.
The 22-250 doesn't seem to be lined up perfectly straight,could this be my problem?
 
sprayed some breakfree in the trim pro where the shell holder goes on,it got alot better,just have to make sure that the pilot goes into the neck freely,no binding. now no more marks!
 
lol i know nobody chimed in,but i wanted to post what i found so it would be helpful to other people
 
I get the same scuffs on the inside of my 7-08 brass when using the trim pro 3 way cutter. You think WD40 would work as well as brake free?
 
One thing worth mentioning with regards to the pilots on these or any other tool that uses pilots is to chuck them up in the drill when they are new and polish them to a mirror finish.

Some of the pilots I've seen from both rcbs and forster are a bit on the rough side for something that contacts the inside of the neck.
 
The Wilson is the king and the most accurate of the so called manual trimmers. You simply cant buy a simpler more elegant tool .
 
The Wilson is tops. It give the squarest most accurate necks of any trimmer I have ever used. I use a battery powered screwdriver and Sinclair attachment, it makes for very easy trimming.
 
savagenut,

If you have the RCBS with the long spring-loaded handle you depress to loosen the shell holder, do this.

1. Insert the case in the shellholder

2. Holding the handle down enough to allow the case to float a bit (not tight)

3. Advance the neck pilot into the neck, but don't engage the cutter

4. Spin the pilot in the case neck (not cutting) and, playing the shell holder tension, let the case spin and self-align on the pilot. You'll see and feel when it's aligned (hard to describe.) You have to get just the right amount of drag between the shell holder and the case.

5. Release the handle to allow the shell holder to hold the case in that position

If you let the case self-align on the pilot, you won't won't feel any drag between the neck and pilot, and you won't get any scuffing.

It's also worthwhile to chunk the pilot in a drill, and polish it with some fine sandpaper or emery cloth. Don't take down its diameter, just smooth it up slightly. Finish off with some 0000 steel wool.
 
WD-40 may work but the protection is related to the oil viscosity. More viscous oil thicker oil film between the two moving parts. WD-40 is mostly solvent. It dries and leaves a very thin film.
 
Xhuntress said:
jonbearman said:
The Wilson is the king and the most accurate of the so called manual trimmers. You simply cant buy a simpler more elegant tool .

Ditto!

I had a chance to buy a used Wilson at an old, historic gun shop (Lolo Sporting Goods, in Lewiston) years ago, for a good price, and let it slide. Somehow I think that one was an earlier Wilson design, did they ever change the way the case is secured?
 
savagenut said:
It only does it with 22-250 brass,.223 is fine

That's odd. Are the necks' IDs different between the two (i.e. the 22-250 has already been neck sized, but not the 223 or something)? The two cases do use a difference shell holder, so maybe there something in that. I suggest you try my self-alignment trick, basically it adjusts the position of the case in the shell holder slightly, as there is wiggle room, and for some reason the 22-250 (being heavier at the head) wants to settle more out of alignment than the 223.
 
Webster said:
WD-40 may work but the protection is related to the oil viscosity. More viscous oil thicker oil film between the two moving parts. WD-40 is mostly solvent. It dries and leaves a very thin film.

Lube is not an answer, there's no way the pilot should be gouging the brass, as long as it is not grossly misaligned, and not grossly tight on the pilot (i.e. neck too small). And the pilot should be too smooth to cause damage. As I wrote before, having owned my RCBS for decades, it definitely requires you to finesse the case position in the shell holder for proper alignment with the pilot. That's just a fact - the RCBS is not designed to assure coaxiality without user input. There's too much slop in the shell holder system it uses.
 
Somehow I think that one was an earlier Wilson design, did they ever change the way the case is secured?
[/quote]

Don't know how the old ones worked, but mine came with two case barrels, one for new cases and one for fired cases (.308). They hold the case very securely and I just tap it on a piece of soft pine to release it. The Micrometer adjustment is the cat's meow. Only problem I have is that the clamp that holds the barrel tight on the rails tends to loosen up every 5 or 6 cases and I have to give the nut a 1/4 turn with my hand. No biggie to me considering the preciseness I get from the tool....perfectly square necks and accurate to .0005.
 

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