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Scope technich for long range

For 600-1000yd. shooting what scope adjustment method are most using, why??? I'm just getting started to begin learning to shoot long range target. For scopes I really like high power variables. My question is, do most of you use a mil-dot or the turning the turrets. I guess I'm kind of hoping it's mil-dot. What I have right now is fine cross hairs w/dot.

thanks tootalloutdoors
 
I turn the knobs, and also have a target-dot crosshair. Mildots are nice for holding off, but on a zoom you will need to know the actual disctance at the setting you use,unless it's first focal plane).
 
paper shooting?

"click to your hit"

put the corsshairs back on your POA, and click to your POI. This will get you zeroed.
 
tootall

You have to be prepared to use a combination of clicking and hold-off when the conditions demand.

I try and get a dead-air zero before the match starts, usually the evening before the match. I then set the knobs to Zero. During the first sight in period I will click to center. As the record target is fired, if the conditions warrant, I will hold off but I usually try to shoot fast enough to avoid doing this.

By getting a dead air zero and setting the knobs you will always have a reference point to return to if things get really snotty and you lose all control of the situation. If you've shot in a place like Reno you know what I mean.

I know some very good shooters who will click for changing conditions and some who will use mil dots. You have to develop your own method - the one that works.

Ray
 
6Dasher said:
I turn the knobs, and also have a target-dot crosshair. Mildots are nice for holding off, but on a zoom you will need to know the actual disctance at the setting you use,unless it's first focal plane).

The first thing I do is work up a drop chart. I usually this software http://www.eskimo.com/~jbm/ballistics/traj_basic/traj_basic.html

This stuff works nicely. It is better if you have a chronograph and more exact information about your ammunition but I lack those so I shoot at various ranges adjusting the chart as required by shooting and seeing where you hit and how much you have to use to adjsut it.

Secondly, I always mechincally zero my scopes first. That is to say I run the scop out first all the way to the left or right on the windage knob, being sure to count how many clicks it takes to stop. Then I do the same in the opposite direction counting clicks still. I think divide the total number of clicks added up by 2 and move that distance back from my last point. This insures that I have an equal amount movement in both left and right. I repeat on the elevation knob in the same manner. Now, the scope is zeroed mechincally.

I then usually perform a test on the actual adustment of the scope so say you scope says .25moa adjustments at 100 yards or meters depending on your scope's specs. I take to large 36inch or 1 meter rulers and attach them to large cardboard white paper after centering a 1 MOA dot in the center of the target. Now it is critical that you measure out 100 yards exactly or 100 meters. If you're 101 or 103 yards/meters,again depending on the scope's specs) the results will be castrophic at 1000 yards/meters. So you zero it on the dot. After which you place four more dots at 4 moa above and below and to the right and left of the zeroing dot all 1 MOA dots. Now what you're going to do is figure out how many clicks it takes you to move over 4 MOA at 100 Yards or Meters. In Yards that 1.047 inches roughly so if your scope is truly .25 it should take you 16.752 clicks to be dead center on the Dots 4 MOA above or below your intial point of impact if it takes more then to find out your value do this,4*1.047)/ number of the clicks to reach target. For example lets say it takes you 12 clicks your scope has a value of .349 MOA of adjustment per click.

Now you once you have this information you can easily adjust your rifle given a specific load which you have drop chart for nearly any range once you know your starting zero which in this case will be 100 yards/meters the actual adjustment values of your scope.

I hope this helps. Personally I don't think holding over is a good method. If you want to shoot accrutately at range you need a range finder and drop chart I believe.
 

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