Ok I've been shooting for a little while but I still consider myself very amateur at this sport. Here is my problem: I have a .308 in a Remington 700 with 20 MOA rail on it, with medium Warne QD rings. I have a Shepherd 6-18x40 V1. I just switched this scope from another rifle I had because my crap Horus Vision scope broke internally. Anyway, went to the range today to sight in and it bottomed out before I could zero the scope at 100 yards. The rail was installed by Red Hawk rifles from Colorado. I usually like to zero my scope at 200yards but the shepherd calls for a 100 yard zero to work with the drop comp circles. So there is my story and now for you wise shooters to tell my how I can fix it myself. Thank you for reading my post.
Scope issue---bottomed out!!!
- Thread starter saw-tooth-jimmy
- Start date
Take off the 20 moa rail and replace it with a standard rail. That will make it work with the Shepherd. The Shepherd does not need nor will it work right with the added moa. We mount ( and shoot ourselves) quite a few Shepherds and if you will sight in putting the smallest circle "on" at 100 yd. then the 200 yd. and other circles will be on at their respective distances. Save the 20 minute rail for another brand scope.
Bobby
Bobby
Ok, now what rail would you recommend I put on? this is just for the mean time. I have a Vortex Viper PST EBR 2C on order and will take about 3 months to come in. Thanks for responding so promptly.
As said, change out the 20 moa base to a standard 0 moa.
I fixed the same problem with one of my switch-barrels: a 6BR 8 twist barrel used with 105 gr. bullets for longer distances, and a 6ppc 14 twist used with 68 gr. for 300 yards maximum. I wanted to keep the same base (Bat 20moa) for both cartridges. The Burris Signature Zee rings that I always use did just that. By using the .010" off-set inserts for the short range ctg. I was able to "take-out" the effects of the 20 moa base.
I fixed the same problem with one of my switch-barrels: a 6BR 8 twist barrel used with 105 gr. bullets for longer distances, and a 6ppc 14 twist used with 68 gr. for 300 yards maximum. I wanted to keep the same base (Bat 20moa) for both cartridges. The Burris Signature Zee rings that I always use did just that. By using the .010" off-set inserts for the short range ctg. I was able to "take-out" the effects of the 20 moa base.
saw-tooth-jimmy said:
Next time, save yourself a (potentially) wasted trip by bore sighting before you leave the house. I'm amazed at how few people understand/use this extremely simple process. Remove the bolt from the rifle. Put the rifle in a crade/vise/bipod and bag -- whatever you have to hold it steady. Peer through the bore at a distant target, for your case say 100y away. Stop signs, street lights, any of that works good provided you can see it through your window or from privacy of your own backyard.
Center this 'target' in your bore, and then adjust the rifle so the target is slightly below the midpoint of the view through the bore. (Bullets drop, people, so the barrel will need to be tilted slightly up to compensate for this...)
Once you have the bore image, then hold the rifle very steady and peek through the scope. Then adjust the scope -- while still holding the rifle steady -- so the crosshairs will intersect the center of your target. Now you're bore sighted.
If you're close to being out of adjustment, then this method won't be a perfect substitute for a trip to the range. But if you're way off from being able to align the reticle center with the bore image, then you know you have a problem.
I've watched people shoot more than 20 rounds using a bolt rifle at 100y, and not hitting the target even once because their scope isn't bore sighted. Yet I've seen shooters bore sight at 600y and then make first shot hits. YMMV.
The other thing the OP could do is leave the 20MOA base in place and swap the rings for the Burris Signature type (with the 'Pos-Align' inserts) that enable you to tilt the scope up/down/left/right because of the eccentric plastic sleeves -- as FDShuster suggests (good advice, per usual!!!) In the OP's case, you'll need to tilt the rear of the scope up. 8)
saw-tooth-jimmy said:
We use the EGW most of the time but the Weaver rail is a good one too. They are both in the 40.00 range.
Bobby
The suggestion to use the Burris Pos-align system is a good one, though the rail swap is quicker and cheaper. And allows to OP to continue to use his Warne QD rings.
Bobby
Bobby
Bobby Bailey: I agree, but a really big advantage with the Signatures, in addition to being able to off-set the scope, is the complete absence of ring marks on the scope tube----ever. The main reason I've used nothing but them since they became available. I will not have my $$$$ Nightforce's and high end Leupolds with ring mark damage.
With the Weaver and Picatinney bases, I also have a "quick disconnect", keeping the rings attached to the scope. Like the Warne QD's also no sight-in required after removing.
Just another way of arriving at the same solution. Both good choices.
With the Weaver and Picatinney bases, I also have a "quick disconnect", keeping the rings attached to the scope. Like the Warne QD's also no sight-in required after removing.
Just another way of arriving at the same solution. Both good choices.
fdshuster, I believe we are pretty much in complete agreement. I did not mean that the pos-align rings were not a good choice, as we recommend them or lapping other rings along with bedding the bases to make sure the scope is mounted as stress free as possible.
Thanks, Bobby
Thanks, Bobby
Well for the time being I just put the last horus hawk with a Larue Tactical QD uni-base/rings on it and just barley sighted it in at 200yards. But, I have on order a Vortex Viper PST EBR2C and will bite my lip and splurge for a Sphur SP-3001 0 MIL/0 MOA Height:30 mm uni-mount. At $420 I will definitely have to hide that from the wife. Thanks for the input.
She will find out, good luck
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