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School me on glocks

Ok id like some info on glocks or other handguns.
Im thinking about a glock 24 (discontined) because id like a long slide 357 sig. I was going to add a longer lone wolf barrel like maybe 8" in 357 sig.
I'm wondering since the 24 is discontinued if the 5" barrel frames are the same? Id really prefer a stainless slide(coo-coo for stainless bc of corrosion resist)
If i can just add along slide and barrel to a 17L or 34 or what ever? Id rather just get a 24 to start and then get the barrel.
How are glock triggers and can they be lightened much.
any recommendations on other 357 sig pistols w long barrels?
Main use is target and hunting. Figured it would be a good starter rather than spending 2K+ on a 1911 38 super
 
Sig makes a 357sig. My buddy is a texas dps occifer and he carries one. Not sure about that particular glock frame but i do know a few of the full size pistols are different. I have a 9,40,10,and 45 in full size. Im pretty sure the 40 and 357 are the same but dont hold me to that. You dont need stainless on a glock slide with the coating they have it wont rust unless its worn thru which is real tuff. There are millions of trigger options for glocks.
 
Dusty Stevens said:
Sig makes a 357sig. My buddy is a texas dps occifer and he carries one. Not sure about that particular glock frame but i do know a few of the full size pistols are different. I have a 9,40,10,and 45 in full size. Im pretty sure the 40 and 357 are the same but dont hold me to that. You dont need stainless on a glock slide with the coating they have it wont rust unless its worn thru which is real tuff. There are millions of trigger options for glocks.

18 year Glock armorer here:

First, no need for stainless unless you like bling. If you like bling, spend $1800 to get it. Second, no real reason in 357 Sig to add long barrel. Most of the reason for Lone Wolf barrels is to get cut rifling so you can shoot lead and soft reloads. Reloading 357 sig is a pain in the bum. Besides, you dump the factory warranty when you shoot reloads. The 357 Sig was designed to replicate the 357mag 125 HP load in a 4 inch gun. It does that and little else. (no offense to 357 sig fans) I am saying that because the normal full size Glock is just over a 4 inch bbl.

The Glock is a basically cop-proof gun. (We can find a way to break an anvil) it is not overly refined in the tolerances, will shoot forever without much cleaning (once put 1800 40 thru a M22 without cleaning or lube and it never slowed down). They are ergonomic, in my opinion, and are easy to learn to shoot/not shoot. Triggers are "adjustable" but unlikely you will ever get the feel of a honed 1911 trigger. Glocks are cheap, run well, are utility guns that can be raced up or just run. It is NOT a 1911. It will run forever with very little care. It is a great "oh S#it" gun for use under extreme stress because it requires little thining and no fine motor skills to get it going. Basic muscle memory and good fundamentals and it will hit your "problem".

As far as a true competition gun, there are classes for glocks and similar guns. Then there are 1911's...

Enjoy it, but don't toss money at it unless you want to waste it.
 
snert said:
Dusty Stevens said:
Sig makes a 357sig. My buddy is a texas dps occifer and he carries one. Not sure about that particular glock frame but i do know a few of the full size pistols are different. I have a 9,40,10,and 45 in full size. Im pretty sure the 40 and 357 are the same but dont hold me to that. You dont need stainless on a glock slide with the coating they have it wont rust unless its worn thru which is real tuff. There are millions of trigger options for glocks.

18 year Glock armorer here:

First, no need for stainless unless you like bling. If you like bling, spend $1800 to get it. Second, no real reason in 357 Sig to add long barrel. Most of the reason for Lone Wolf barrels is to get cut rifling so you can shoot lead and soft reloads. Reloading 357 sig is a pain in the bum. Besides, you dump the factory warranty when you shoot reloads. The 357 Sig was designed to replicate the 357mag 125 HP load in a 4 inch gun. It does that and little else. (no offense to 357 sig fans) I am saying that because the normal full size Glock is just over a 4 inch bbl.

The Glock is a basically cop-proof gun. (We can find a way to break an anvil) it is not overly refined in the tolerances, will shoot forever without much cleaning (once put 1800 40 thru a M22 without cleaning or lube and it never slowed down). They are ergonomic, in my opinion, and are easy to learn to shoot/not shoot. Triggers are "adjustable" but unlikely you will ever get the feel of a honed 1911 trigger. Glocks are cheap, run well, are utility guns that can be raced up or just run. It is NOT a 1911. It will run forever with very little care. It is a great "oh S#it" gun for use under extreme stress because it requires little thining and no fine motor skills to get it going. Basic muscle memory and good fundamentals and it will hit your "problem".

As far as a true competition gun, there are classes for glocks and similar guns. Then there are 1911's...

Enjoy it, but don't toss money at it unless you want to waste it.

+1
 
I picked up one of the new long slide .45s. The 41, I tkink itis, and was pleasantly surprised. My first glock, as I'm a 1911 guy. A friend made me buy it.
 
Love the full size Glocks. I have a G35 which I use for general target/plinking and I also have a G22 upper that I slide on when I want to holster tatci-train. I'm struggling a bit with the very snappy muzzle flip on the Glock .40's but I'm slowly getting better. I love the Glocks simplicity and function. Field strip in about 30 seconds.
 
I love my glocks... they turn into a new feeling gun if you replace the inner parts with the ghost upgrades.. works well for me.

Like what was said though they are not a honed 1911 though.. but they can be fixed up to shoot really well. I have a 357 sig glock. I reload for it, use 40 cal brass and run it through a 357 sig sizer die, load and shoot... not too big of a hassle that ive found... never had a problem..

40 cal and 357 sig parts are interchangable besides the barrel... so you could buy a full size 40 cal and buy a new 357 sig barrel and shoot both calibers...

As far as the 357 sig goes, its a little more poppy than a 40 cal recoil wise..
 
Oh, and it can be repaired by a grade school mechanic....I taught my kids how to tear it down to its total disassembly and put it back together. Clean it with CLP and wipe it off now and then and it just keeps going.
 
I love mine most accurate pistol out of the box I've ever owned. Mine was a 41C I won't do compensated again...well maybe because I could have the option with a non compensated barrel but anyway you will not be disappointed. I've had a 1911 get sloppy after a couple thousand rounds "el cheapo" but the glock keeps going and it's never picky about skipping a bath.



Very Respectfully
 
My experience with Glocks differs slightly from the others.

I've carried one for many years. In general, the accuracy was adequate for a combat handgun. Even with too many modifications (new barrel, etc.), it only now shoots as well as several other out-of-the box pistols.

I would recommend shooting a Glock before buying one. It isn't terribly comfortable for me to shoot a lot of rounds through. For some reason, it makes the tip of my trigger finger sore. It can also give you a good case of slide bite in stock form.

Yes, I still carry one for the reasons stated above (pull trigger, goes bang, pull trigger again, same result - never changes), but am currently playing with a long-slide M&P just for giggles.
 
snert said:
...but don't toss money at it unless you want to waste it.

Well said.

I have carried a Glock for 25+ years, and love them.

But don't try to make it into something that it isn't, and was never meant to be.

Use it for it's designed purpose, stay within those limits, and you'll find Glocks to be *very* good at what they do.
 
Busdriver said:
...accuracy was adequate for a combat handgun. Even with too many modifications (new barrel, etc.), it only now shoots as well as several other out-of-the box pistols.

Read my post above.

What sort of "accuracy standards" do you need from a "combat handgun"?

I will take dead solid reliability over pinpoint accuracy any day when the adrenaline is pumping and my life is on the line.
 
If you really need the capacity of a semi-auto, OK. If it is for hunting, why not a .357 mag. revolver? Accurate, can use ANY bullet w/o feeding or OAL issues, choose the barrel length you need. Dan Wesson .357s can be had used for around $450-500 (one on Armslist I am drooling over as we speak), CZ is offering barrels again so that you can have anything from 2" - much longer and change them yourself. Brass will last longer if you are reloading.
Or...look at Coonan 1911-style .357 mag.!
 
I have a 1st Gen. model 17. Very accurate and has never failed to feed or fire. The Glock coating is still pristine. Different factory spring kits are offered, as are after market, to lighten the trigger. The early Glock frames were/are a lititle slippery. I do not think that will affect you in your desired caliber.

Since the .357 and 9mm make the same size hole, I would go with a 9mm. Less recoil, more and cheaper brass, as well as ball ammo. Factory defensive loads have improved dramatically the past five years.....in court factory loads do not make you a "gun nut". As a target gun 9mm is easier on your wrist. Faster follow-up target acquisition.

deepwater
 
I owned Glocks since 1992, and I have been trying to wear out a G35 for the last 6 years, it has approx 60k rounds down the tube of 40, and another 25k of 9mm through a KKM conversion barrel, no offense but Lone Wolf barrels suck and the logo is butt ugly, the stock Glock plastic sights stink, replace them immediately, I perfer black rear and fiber optic front sights, everything inside my Glock is stock, except the springs, I run a 13lb recoil spring because I shoot minor loads in 40, extra power trigger spring, and a reduced power plunger spring, DO NOT replace the striker(firing pin) spring with a reduced power one, if you do the gun will let you down at the worst possible moment, 25cent trigger job resulted in a very clean break at 3lbs, I don't clean it very often, or lube it, I just wipe off the gunpowder residue when changing barrels. A lot of new Glock shooters will shoot low and left(right handed people) this mainly due to recoil anticipation and the grip angle of Gen3 and earlier(I have never shoot a Gen4), Dry Fire Dry Fire Dry Fire will fix the recoil anticipation, and rolling the shoulders forward and trigger finger placement will fix the low n left. Accuracy wise a Glock is never going to shoot 1.5 inch groups at 50 yards like a 3000 dollar 1911, but they will put all rounds in the down zero portion of a IDPA USPSA target if the shooter is capable of doing so, get one, run it hard like a 2 peso W...., don't clean it don't lube it, just shoot it
 
I have 2 Glocks, 1 is the model 21 other one is the 37 .45 gap, I shoot my M&P .40, 98% of the time. Just not a big fan of the glock grip.
 
bdale said:
snert said:
Dusty Stevens said:
Sig makes a 357sig. My buddy is a texas dps occifer and he carries one. Not sure about that particular glock frame but i do know a few of the full size pistols are different. I have a 9,40,10,and 45 in full size. Im pretty sure the 40 and 357 are the same but dont hold me to that. You dont need stainless on a glock slide with the coating they have it wont rust unless its worn thru which is real tuff. There are millions of trigger options for glocks.

18 year Glock armorer here:

First, no need for stainless unless you like bling. If you like bling, spend $1800 to get it. Second, no real reason in 357 Sig to add long barrel. Most of the reason for Lone Wolf barrels is to get cut rifling so you can shoot lead and soft reloads. Reloading 357 sig is a pain in the bum. Besides, you dump the factory warranty when you shoot reloads. The 357 Sig was designed to replicate the 357mag 125 HP load in a 4 inch gun. It does that and little else. (no offense to 357 sig fans) I am saying that because the normal full size Glock is just over a 4 inch bbl.

The Glock is a basically cop-proof gun. (We can find a way to break an anvil) it is not overly refined in the tolerances, will shoot forever without much cleaning (once put 1800 40 thru a M22 without cleaning or lube and it never slowed down). They are ergonomic, in my opinion, and are easy to learn to shoot/not shoot. Triggers are "adjustable" but unlikely you will ever get the feel of a honed 1911 trigger. Glocks are cheap, run well, are utility guns that can be raced up or just run. It is NOT a 1911. It will run forever with very little care. It is a great "oh S#it" gun for use under extreme stress because it requires little thining and no fine motor skills to get it going. Basic muscle memory and good fundamentals and it will hit your "problem".

As far as a true competition gun, there are classes for glocks and similar guns. Then there are 1911's...

Enjoy it, but don't toss money at it unless you want to waste it.

+1

Yep, perfect. I would add that a 357 Sig is an abrupt, obnoxious round...............
 
Cold Bore said:
Busdriver said:
...accuracy was adequate for a combat handgun. Even with too many modifications (new barrel, etc.), it only now shoots as well as several other out-of-the box pistols.

Read my post above.

What sort of "accuracy standards" do you need from a "combat handgun"?

I will take dead solid reliability over pinpoint accuracy any day when the adrenaline is pumping and my life is on the line.

I guess it mostly depends on where you tend to roam. In some places, 100 yards, COM would be a solid requirement. Other places, 7 yards would do. If you only carry a handgun, and have criminals or terrorists with rifles running about, what accuracy standards would make you most comfortable?

I remember a news story about a police officer in Texas that made a 100 yard shot to stop a shooting spree. IIRC, it was a one-shot deal.

For each person, requirements differ. My Glock was a hit the silhouette 90% of the time gun at about 20 yards before modification. Now, it is a stone-reliable 100% 10 ring gun at that range. The two changes that I made to effect that improvement - #1 a new barrel. #2 (and far less important) new sights.

We can theorize for an entire lifetime about what would or wouldn't be required. I prefer it that way. Knowing for certain is not a pleasant thought.
 
Busdriver said:
I guess it mostly depends on where you tend to roam. In some places, 100 yards, COM would be a solid requirement. Other places, 7 yards would do. If you only carry a handgun, and have criminals or terrorists with rifles running about, what accuracy standards would make you most comfortable?

If you are relying on a Glock, or any handgun, to protect you from bad guys at 100 yards, you need to renegotiate your contract and make a few life adjustments! :o

I remember a news story about a police officer in Texas that made a 100 yard shot to stop a shooting spree. IIRC, it was a one-shot deal.

And I'll bet he couldn't do it again, with a full box of ammo worth of tries.

We can theorize for an entire lifetime about what would or wouldn't be required. I prefer it that way. Knowing for certain is not a pleasant thought.

On that, we agree 100%. 8)
 

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