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sAVAGE

ANY ONE KNOW WHY SAVAGE ACTIONS ARE SO HARD TO OPEN. i HAVE 2 DONE IN ROATAR CUFF AND ITS HARD FOR ME TO OPEN THE ACTION AFTER A SHOT.
 
A Savage is a Savage - they tend to be a little stiff.

You can install a bolt lift kit that will reduce the friction between the screw at the rear of the bolt and the cocking piece- that helps some. Polishing the cocking ramp helps some. Both of these affect the lifting of the bolt handle.

If you are having difficulty pulling the case clear of the chamber once the bolt handle is up, the problem is likely that the primary extraction on the bolt is missing. This is not unusual for a Savage. The rear bolt baffle can be modified with a shim to increase its thickness to help engage the primary extraction cam.

I can send pictures of my adjustable primary extraction baffle if you would like. It is an easy job to do on a drill press.

No. I'm not a gunsmith and only do my own work right now.
 
Re: Adjustable baffle

Keith,
I've thought many times about adding two small set screws to the forward side of the baffle on one of my actions. I've placed shims into the gap to see if my idea would work and the extraction gets much easier
Seems like it would be a simple job.
Is this what you do?
 
All of these suggestions are spot on to aid in the bolt lift. I've also added a larger bolt handle and done the bolt lift "hot rod" kit with a savage short action and WOW! This thing is like a greased pig. It's effortless to open. One finger operation. Amazing the difference over a stock setup. ;)


Dan
 
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/143602/ptg-bolt-lift-kit-savage-10-110



http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/134-misc-savage-parts



Check out these options

Dan
 
Re: Adjustable baffle

Mike Casselton said:
Keith,
I've thought many times about adding two small set screws to the forward side of the baffle on one of my actions. I've placed shims into the gap to see if my idea would work and the extraction gets much easier
Seems like it would be a simple job.
Is this what you do?

Yes. The screws bear against the rear ring of the action. You should be aware that some finish wear is inevitable. I adjust the screws until I get some resistance to bolt closure, then shorten them a little bit - extraction is a breeze.
 
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/674002/savage-arms-bolt-handle-assembly-savage-110ba-right-hand-tactical-knob-steel-matte

This is about an inch longer than the ball end handle.
 
Just ordered a bolt handle from Glades Armory, I get my bolt lift kits from Kevin at Stockade Gunstocks and he has some longer bolt handles as well.

Keith it would be nice to see a pic of your baffle, you said you use set screws... ever think about seeing if you can find the set screws with the nylon tips? just an idea. Later,

Kirk
 
Here is the one on my not-pretty rifle. It was done with a hand held drill and hand tapped. The baffle tips some during opening, but the reduced cam angle seems to work fine. Best part is this is a small, easily replaceable, part so if you screw it up, just get another one.

I think that tapping (carefully) a blind hole right behind the cam would allow a
third screw to prevent tipping, but would take a little careful adjustment.

Penetrating locktite is put on after adjusting - works great, hasn't come loose.

The second and third pictures show how much adjustment it took to make my rifle work right. Nylon tipped set screws would probably reduce wear on the rear ring, but, then again, that metal is so hard that...
 

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